tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61708522851075020752024-03-18T02:47:38.879-07:00BIG OLD HOUSESJohn Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.comBlogger323125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-80245309954665169422015-07-29T20:52:00.000-07:002015-07-30T09:15:09.451-07:00Moving On<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRWecB3IRdCTyouTuxJII5TF9g-hgsneiZFXAlTDer-g923MzA7Chx2hUOEFKPBF5g9NXh34lFwr_Tlpr8CyGWxH72WTI_y-VpHtCSeUcoMahVmvvmmyPhk20pj5DmB-AiKPQ0RMqUs0bK/s1600/moving+on.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRWecB3IRdCTyouTuxJII5TF9g-hgsneiZFXAlTDer-g923MzA7Chx2hUOEFKPBF5g9NXh34lFwr_Tlpr8CyGWxH72WTI_y-VpHtCSeUcoMahVmvvmmyPhk20pj5DmB-AiKPQ0RMqUs0bK/s640/moving+on.jpg" /></a></div>John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com431tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-71994283447765521022015-07-22T22:34:00.001-07:002015-07-22T22:34:30.833-07:00A Private Kingdom<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbTfMGtAuhwVadCJB_iv5dN36bqQhslOttFw92ULg2PMl8G-zhyphenhyphenpiWLBpnGGksiY4T_nC_xEzMewzkTGfbWviQ8KsS3GEJHdxAHB8l8WqxCytozsOgo9-0J1szY1b2nFC0g2ZsHiVbGsT2/s1600/leaving.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbTfMGtAuhwVadCJB_iv5dN36bqQhslOttFw92ULg2PMl8G-zhyphenhyphenpiWLBpnGGksiY4T_nC_xEzMewzkTGfbWviQ8KsS3GEJHdxAHB8l8WqxCytozsOgo9-0J1szY1b2nFC0g2ZsHiVbGsT2/s640/leaving.jpg" /></a></div>This innocent (let's pretend it's unstaged) candid captures a watershed event in the history of a grand American family. John Ridgely Jr. (1882-1959) and his second wife Jane (d. 1978), having supervised donation to the National Park Service of Hampton, ancestral home of the Ridgelys since 1790, are moving out. Hampton was once the greatest Georgian mansion in America, center of a 25,000-acre agro-industrial complex that produced iron, beef, grain, marble, corn, dairy, racehorses and stupendous quantities of money, primarily due to the efforts of 300 slaves and a low-cost battalion of convict laborers and indentured immigrants. At its zenith in 1829, Hampton's second master, Maryland Governor Charles Carnan Ridgely (1760-1829) possessed both the fortune and the inclination to live like a prince, which is exactly what he did. That was a different world, however, and on this spring morning in 1948, his aristocratic descendant, like aristocratic types everywhere, is scrambling to salvage whatever he can. Where are Mr. & Mrs. Ridgely going? He's pointing to it with his cane; the old Home Farm across the street, used for centuries by Hampton estate managers, but now the home of Hampton's last private owner. <br />
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The Ridgelys, like many distinguished clans, had a penchant for using the same Christian names over and over, from one generation to the next, in the instant case Charles and John. This makes it practically impossible to keep them all straight. It was a Col. Charles Ridgely who bought the core of the property in 1745, and a Capt. Charles (his son) who built the house and died there pretty much the moment it was done. Then another Charles (the Maryland governor) took over, and it was during his watch that the estate, originally measuring a comparatively modest 1500 acres, reached its swollen apogee of 25,000. The original holding had been in the family for almost forty years before work on the mansion began. Hampton, swan song of a talented local builder named Jehu Howell, is a typical 18th century 5-part Palladian country house, surprisingly grand considering the remote location. It consists of a pair of outrigger wings connected to a central block by means of low-rise hyphens. Its principal feature, besides size, is the enormous lantern perched atop the central block, a theatrical touch that makes an already big house seem even bigger. <br />
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Except for a flight of marble steps leading up to the front door, the south or garden facade of Hampton is almost identical to the entry facade on the north. The south side overlooks a terraced lawn, below which is a series of descending terraces laid out as parterres. The condition of these has waxed and waned over the centuries - from showplace geometrical patterns of clipped box filled with extravagant annuals to plain grass lawns - depending on the interest of Hampton's occupants and the state of their finances. The parterres reached an elaborate peak during the ownership of John Carnan Ridgely (1790-1867), son of the governor, who in 1829 inherited Hampton on only (if you will forgive the expression) 4500 of its 25,000 acres. The 39-year-old Ridgely's wife Eliza (1803-1867) had a taste for expensive furniture, expensive art and expensive plants. She brought to the marriage sufficient dollars of her own, however, not only to pay for these luxuries, but to offset the financial impact on the estate caused by the abolition of slavery. Not for the first time, Hampton's parterres are today under restoration once again. Beside greenhouses, celebrated parterres and an orangerie, John and Eliza Ridgely piped the house for gas and added bathrooms and a heating plant - of sorts. <br />
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Rebecca Dorsey, wife of Hampton's builder, Capt. Charles, was a distant relation of the Howards of Castle Howard in Yorkshire, England, which fact is said to explain the lantern on Hampton's roof. A quick comparison of the images below shows why. The same comparison holds a note of caution, as well, for those of us convinced that nothing has ever been bigger or better than what we have in America. The Ridgelys lost Hampton almost seventy years ago, when it was on 60-odd acres. The Howards still own Castle Howard on 8800 acres - and they even still live there. Whereas 25,000 acres is certainly nothing to sniff at, it hardly compares to the holdings of Polish Princess Elzbieta Lubomirska (1736-1816), contemporary of the grandest of the Ridgelys and a friend (interestingly) of Benjamin Franklin. Lubomirska owned 150,000 serfs, 19 castles and several medium sized cities. <br />
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Here's Hampton's builder, Capt. Ridgely, painted in 1765 by John Hasselius. Unfair as it may be to judge a prior era by the standards of today, it is an unavoidable fact that Capt. Ridgely's prosperity depended as much on slavery and conscripted labor (including British revolutionary war prisoners) as it did on shrewdness and ambition - and that's not counting a whopping inheritance and his insider's ability to pay beans for confiscated Tory-owned property. During the revolution, war materiel produced in Hampton's labor-intensive iron foundries, cold and silent by the time of John and Eliza, made the Capt. even richer. <br />
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His wife Rebecca, painted in the same year as her husband, and by the same artist, has a disquieting look of feline entitlement. They may have been wonderful people, but if so, they should have sued that painter.<br />
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The Capt. and his lady, for all that power and money, never managed to have children, and so, upon his death in 1790, he left the whole shebang to his nephew, Charles Ridgely Carnan. Young Carnan had been in business with his uncle for many years. He was not only qualified to administer the family money mill, but quite willing to agree to his uncle's requirement that, in order to continue the family name, he change his name to Charles Carnan Ridgely. This sort of thing is so typical in society annals that it hardly merits note. Governor Ridgely, as the new lord of Hampton would ultimately become in 1815, not only brought the estate to its peak, he simultaneously sewed the seeds of its destruction. Upon his death in 1829, his will freed Hampton's hundreds of slaves, which of course, he didn't need any more. The estate itself was then parceled out to eleven separate heirs, not that this mattered much to son John and his rich wife Eliza. They promptly went out and bought sixty new slaves to keep things going. When these bolted after the Civil War, they simply hired replacements and paid them with Mrs. Ridgely's money. <br />
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My hostess today is Hampton Curator Gregory (it's a family name) Weidman, who endured my insistent requests to look behind every closed door with patience and tact. Hampton's first floor plan, setting aside scale and decoration, is not much different from countless center hall colonials built before and since. The vintage views of the main hall - the first looking south, the second looking north - were taken in 1900 and illustrate a type of material accumulation - of paintings, furniture, objets d'art, etc. - that comes with being rich for a century and a half. <br />
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I confess I rather like the old fashioned accumulation look - nifty chairs in front of nifty chairs, pictures so numerous the walls behind them are invisible, an entire Bengali district's worth of animal skins on the floor (I know, I know, very politically incorrect). Hampton's rooms today lack that appealing former cocktail of priceless objets and cracked ceilings. They are no longer consistently of any one period either, instead being impeccably decorated in a mélange of styles, an homage to different owners from different eras. Today's view south down the main hall is more correct to the early 1800s, and considerably more chaste than that which greeted guests in 1900. P.S. That's the Ridgely crest with the stag on top. <br />
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I loathe the term "networking," probably because I'm not very good at it. Yet networking was what saved Hampton from the steamroller of advancing suburban Baltimore. The painting below is a copy of Thomas Sully's "Lady with a Harp," an 1818 idealization of the future Eliza Ridgely, painted when she was a lass of 15. The original hung in the main hall at Hampton, more or less anonymously, for over a century. Then in 1945, a renewed interest in Sully brought National Gallery Director David Finley to Hampton to see if he could buy it, which he did. While there, he saw the threat to Hampton from suburban sprawl and financial pressure. In the wake of a cordial experience with John Ridgely Jr. (who, incidentally, threw in the portrait of Eliza's husband for free), Finley talked Hampton up amongst his influential friends. The eventual result was purchase of the estate in 1948 by the Avalon Foundation, founded in 1940 by the children of Andrew W. Mellon. Avalon promptly donated the property to the National Park Service, at which point John and Jane Ridgely ceremoniously descended the steps of Hampton, trailed by a white coated servant with arms full of luggage, and moved across the street. <br />
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Hampton's four principal public rooms all open onto the main hall. Let's have a look at the Drawing Room first, the entrance to which is just left of the front door in the image below. The theme here is 1890s Rococo Revival, its execution the result of painstaking scholarship based on old photos, upholstery fragments, teensy swatches of vanished curtains, etc., etc. It's quite a contrast to the severity of the main hall.<br />
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The décor of the Music Room (door on the right, south end of the hall) speaks to a slightly earlier period. I quote from the Hampton National Historic Site Guidebook: "In Hampton's Music Room (1870-1890)...a photograph from the 1880s showed one of the windows in summertime, with just lace curtains and a painted window shade in use. Hampton's curators were able to match the distinctive motifs seen in the photograph with a surviving shade that was one of a set of three featuring allegories of Music, Theater, and Gardening. Hand-painted reproductions were commissioned which meticulously recreate even the style of the brushstrokes." Wow. <br />
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Greg is standing in the door between the Music Room and the former plantation office, the latter located in the west hyphen. Beyond the office was one of three bathrooms which once served the entire building. Two of these were located in the west wing. This one, on the ground floor, is now just a big room, with one of those yawning colonial looking fireplaces. According to the plan, however, the space was originally divided into several "bathing" rooms, to which hot water was delivered by servants. Toilets? Fuhgeddaboudit. <br />
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Let's retrace our steps across the office and Music Room, out into the main hall, and down to what Hampton labels the Parlour, but what I'd call a reception room. From there we'll loop back out into the hall and check out the dining room, notable, among other things, for a very handsome scenic wallpaper called "Monuments of Paris." Was this same pattern on the walls in Governor Ridgely's day? Who knows? What has been determined, however, (and don't ask me how) is that in 1829 the same pattern was available in shops near the governor's Baltimore townhouse. <br />
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A leg of the main hall, entered originally through open arch into which a door was inserted many years ago, leads to the main - and for a long time the only - staircase up. What is it about redundant furniture, ratty oriental runners, flaking ceilings, and gloomy color choices (particularly on trim) that never fails to charm me? It's lucky, I suppose, that I'm not in charge of "interpreting" historic sites.<br />
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A corridor behind the stair leads into the east wing, passing the former serving pantry (connected to the dining room and too chockablock with stuff to photograph) en route to the kitchen. The latter basks in the sort of hygienically restored splendor that would leave a Hampton cook stunned. I love the call bells on the corridor wall. (Think: 'Downton Abbey'). <br />
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Before the reign of Eliza and John, the main stair was the only stair to floors 2 and 3. J & E inserted a narrow service stair - the ascent of which is rather like a game of twister - connecting the serving pantry to a landing between the nursery and the housekeeper's room. We'll glimpse it in a moment. <br />
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Hampton's interiors, I am informed, were finished on the upper floors first, and the crew was still on the second floor when designer/builder Jehu Howell died in 1787. This accounts for the particular elegance of the second floor hall when compared to the rooms below. I'm not entirely sure this is true, but it's a good story. Most of the bedrooms on 2 have been splendidly restored and furnished.<br />
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The other bedrooms are either display spaces (the fragment of wall illustrates a decoration scheme of the past; the photo shows John Jr's son, not surprisingly also named John, and his wife Lillian in wartime uniforms) or un-renovated storage depots. The tree in the middle of the view is a specimen Cedar of Lebanon, planted a century and half ago by Eliza Ridgely. <br />
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Let's take a quick peek down the nursery corridor to the head of the back stair. Until 1902, the only bathrooms - sorry, "bathing rooms" - in the entire house were the two in the west wing, and the only way you could get there from family bedrooms on 2 was to haul yourself downstairs, cross the main hall, navigate the music room and the plantation office, and hope to arrive simultaneously with the hot water. In 1902, a single modern bathroom - with commode, sink and tub - was belatedly installed in space cut out of the former nursery. It's gone now, worse luck. If you didn't want to use a chamber pot, this was your only choice in the whole house. <br />
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Unlike Tara, Hampton escaped the Civil War unscathed, a matter of considerable luck considering the Southern sympathies of its slave-holding owners. After Lincoln's election, Eliza's son, another Charles, formed the Baltimore County Horse Guards, which proved an opportunity to fit himself out in a snappy uniform and trumpet the still familiar call for "states' rights." After an adventurous evening burning railroad bridges, the Yankees captured one of his militia colleagues, a fellow named John Merryman, and charged him with treason. Merryman did eventually escape execution, but not before the same threat led young Charles Ridgely's parents to promise the Yankee occupation authorities that their son would henceforth remain close to Hampton and cause no further mischief. On that note, let's head upstairs for a brief look at the third floor (a warren of rooms crammed with storage) and finally to the most exciting part of Hampton, the lantern on top.<br />
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What goes up...<br />
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By the late 1920s, Hampton's last Ridgely and his father, both named John, were losing the fight to maintain the place on its remaining thousand acres. In 1929 they formed the Hampton Development Corporation, whose grandiose sounding brochure, seen below, heralded the pleasant but largely unexceptional suburban tracts that surround the house today. Land sales, despite a sag in the '30s, kept the proverbial wolf from the door, but only temporarily. We must thank Eliza Ridgely for Hampton's existence today, for without her portrait, its salvation might never have happened. Both mansion and Home Farm across the road are part of the National Historic Site; google Hampton National Historic Site for the link. <br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com220tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-50328840315680778352015-07-16T05:18:00.001-07:002015-07-16T05:18:18.811-07:00The Elegant Republic <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2Ap1wBQ-TstkUmQ7iitZIr-pzyBCEIGxK9JA1OZEYCeD9FiM_5BDPHfPkbR2IWdB-Pd2xfYMSl9IT31ZK60hep1oM2ETVL1p0kHYdqgoI9EkYQWN82Wq4aXacMdoLkWYofTAKY2xtkAd/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-07-06+at+10.33.38+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2Ap1wBQ-TstkUmQ7iitZIr-pzyBCEIGxK9JA1OZEYCeD9FiM_5BDPHfPkbR2IWdB-Pd2xfYMSl9IT31ZK60hep1oM2ETVL1p0kHYdqgoI9EkYQWN82Wq4aXacMdoLkWYofTAKY2xtkAd/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-07-06+at+10.33.38+AM.png" /></a></div>This is Mt. Airy Plantation, a Palladian outpost in rustic America built in 1764 near the northern Virginia village of Warsaw. Although closely related, it is not the subject of today's post. By 1799, Mt. Airy was owned by John Tayloe III (1771-1828), probably the richest planter in slave-owning America. Tayloe's confrere, General Washington, convinced him that year to build a city house - "city" being a euphemism for the swampy and largely barren District of Columbia - within shouting distance of the new Presidential Palace, a.k.a., the White House. <br />
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Tayloe was European educated, served in the Virginia legislature, owned thousands of acres and hundreds of slaves, and derived his prosperity from the land. He was, in short, an exemplar of Thomas Jefferson's vision of the new American elite. Unprepossesing as Washington city then looked, Tayloe's lot cost a not-cheap $1000. <br />
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Here is Dr. William Thornton (1759-1828), the talented amateur who, in 1793, designed the U.S. Capitol (for $500 and a free lot) and, in 1798, did Tayloe's new city house at 1799 New York Avenue N.W. My sister used to say, if anyone asked, that the 18th Century was the perfect century. This was an admittedly aesthetic judgement but, seeing as income inequality, human rights abuses and medical crises haven't changed much, she may have had a point. Where architecture was concerned, the 18th century's "gestalt," even in our remote little republic, was a comely mix of rediscovered classical antiquity and a conscious allegiance to the rule of reason. The result was a delicate, if slightly thin, fineness, a weensy bit refined for my own corrupted taste, but highly elegant still and all.<br />
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And this is the Octagon, Thornton's house for the Tayloes, seen below in 1870, when still intact but past its peak. Dr. Thornton, interestingly, ended life as head of the U.S. Patent Office, a left turn from what I'd have thought a promising career in architecture. After the widow Tayloe's death in 1855, her children, disinclined to live in a declining neighborhood, rented the house to a Catholic academy for young ladies, then in 1867 to the Hydrographic Department of the U.S. Navy, which remained there until 1879. <br />
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Here's the Octagon today, located two blocks from the White House at one of those crazy D.C. intersections where, in this case, an outrigger block of New York Avenue kisses one of two E Streets (don't ask) at the corner of 18th Street N.W. The house is in "XXX Mint" condition, as real estate brokers say, the result of a scholarly restoration completed in 1995, and paid for by the American Institute of Architects, tenants since 1898 and owners since 1902. It's missing its shutters, a frequent omission on even the best restorations, and a situation I'd correct right away. <br />
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The house sits at the nose end of a now shrunken triangular parcel that once included stables, a carriage house, slave quarters, a separate laundry building, smokehouse and a still surviving ice house. Those vanished vestiges of early life in the capital have been replaced by the AIA's new (well, in 1973) headquarters, which in turn replaced it's longtime residence in the Octagon itself. The new building is a swooping, low rise, glass and stone affair, profoundly inoffensive in the mode of official Washington. You may wonder, as I did, how in the world the Tayloe house came to be dubbed "The Octagon?" Polygonal, yes. Octagonal? I don't think so. There is, however, an explanation - well, two explanations, as my very kind hostess, Octagon Museum Manager Teresa Martinez, soon explained.<br />
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Dr. Thornton's was an original solution to a challenging site, one that employed classical geometry - triangles, rectangles and a circle - to produce an elegant and liveable plan. According to one account, the circular rooms so beloved of 18th century builders had to be framed out first as octagons, then smoothed into circles by means of interior plasterwork. This may be true, but as an explanation for calling a house an Octagon, I don't really buy it. Alternately, if you count the individual planes on the exterior facade of this house - counting the bow front as one - you'll come up with eight. To me this makes more sense. <br />
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Another head scratcher is how exactly the Tayloes managed to live in this house with 13 (out of an original 15) children, and as many as 18 slaves. Answer: The children were never all here at once, being either at school in England or down at Mt. Airy, and such slaves not condemned to sleeping on the basement floor shared quarters out back. Today's interiors have been restored to the period shortly after the War of 1812, about which more later. Of note in the entrance hall are beautiful proportions, restrained details, curved doors, marble flooring, and a pair of stoves that haven't been moved in 213 years. <br />
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The main stair, lit by a Palladian window at mezzanine level, is almost Shaker in its simplicity. <br />
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In 1814, as British forces advanced on the capital, there was a general rout of the better classes. Many fled with furniture, silver and slaves to family plantations further south. The departing Tayloes, on the way out the door, lent their Washington townhouse to the French consul, in hopes the Tricolor out front would stave off marauders with firebrands. It did, although in the name of accuracy, those marauders had been strictly instructed by their commanders to respect private property. Dolley Madison, fleeing the soon-to-be burned White House, tarried long enough to deposit her parrot with the French consul for safekeeping, before hurrying off to Georgetown en route south. As soon as the smoke cleared, President and Mrs. Madison returned to Washington and moved into the Octagon. The Tayloes' beautiful drawing room and dining room became the scenes of state receptions and dinners, as well as Dolley Madison's famous Wednesday night "squeezes," so named for the crush of socially aspiring attendees. The Madisons stayed in the house for six months and paid the Tayloes a total of $500 in rent.<br />
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The drawing room is a restrained and well proportioned space, none of whose furnishings is original. Its principle feature is an imported Coadestone fireplace, quite a luxury for 1799. This twice fired composite stone, the favorite of English kings and noblemen, was the product of a famously profitable firm owned by an Englishwoman named Eleanor Coade (1733-1821). <br />
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Across the hall is the dining room, with yet more Coadestone. The stuff was easily cast into all manner of decorate devices - balustrades, snarling lions, fireplace surrounds, cornice detail, etc., etc. - and famously resistant to weather. Table servants during the Octagon's salad days, immediately before and after the War of 1812, wore blue livery with red vests, gold lace on the pockets, epaulettes on the shoulders, white stockings and buckled shoes. <br />
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No dumb waiter or serving pantry in this old house, but rather a steep stair to a primitive (by modern standards) basement kitchen whose sole comfort was a fair amount of light. <br />
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This kitchen was better than most, given the Tayloes' money, but cooking in it couldn't have been easy. Coals from the fire were put in the square grates below, then pots set on top to simmer.<br />
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Elsewhere in today's eerily antiseptic basement are a wine cellar, housekeeper's room, servant hall and lots of brick flooring that couldn't have been very comfortable to sleep on. <br />
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The graceful main stair makes the house appear to have four floors when it really has three. (Explanation to come). <br />
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OK, let's see who's smarter than a Fifth Grader. "Question: The Treaty of Ghent; Discuss." The dates in today's post may already have given the answer away. The Treaty of Ghent, negotiated in neutral Belgium after we and the Brits had endured sufficient mutual and inconclusive destruction, ended the War of 1812. President Madison signed it on February 17, 1815 in Mr. Tayloe's second floor study, six months after the sack of Washington. The portrait over the study fireplace is Mr. Tayloe's son, Midshipman John Tayloe IV, wounded in August, 1812 during a dreadfully bloody confrontation between the U.S.S. Constitution (a.k.a. Old Ironsides) and the British frigate Guerriere. (We won). <br />
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Let's leave the study and have a look at the late 18th century's version of an owners' suite (the door is on the left in the 2nd image below). There are actually two dressing rooms in this suite, one on either side of the bedroom - and one of which I have accidentally neglected to label. Of course, there was no bathroom.<br />
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By the 1880s Foggy Bottom had deteriorated into an industrial slum, speckled with a few decrepit mansions that had been converted to tenement rooming houses. When an AIA architect named Glenn Brown stumbled onto the Octagon in 1898, he found it bulging with ten families and no indoor plumbing. The Coadestone fireplace in the vintage image below, said to have been taken that same year, is in the owners' bedroom. What strikes me as odd in this picture is the proliferation of books in a scene that would otherwise seem a depiction of extreme poverty.<br />
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The view below looks from Mr. Tayloe's dressing room across a small anteroom to the second floor landing. On the opposite side were two bedrooms, now combined into a single exhibition space. A ceiling soffit marks the line of the former dividing wall.<br />
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The Octagon is full of low key details - among them an abundance of curved doors - that often go unnoticed in an 18th century house. The service stair lurks behind this one. We, however, are taking the main stair to 3, where restored bedrooms are used today as museum offices.<br />
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The three steps in the image below lead to the "faux" 4th floor, which is really just a couple of closets. Seen from below, however, the little mezzanine onto which they open makes the house appear grander by an entire floor. <br />
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No matter how often the "ghost stories" are debunked, the Octagon is still considered the most haunted house in Washington. This is unsurprising, I suppose, given the "fact-free" environment that characterizes so much of American life. <br />
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The American Institute of Architects, originally called the New York Society of Architects, was founded in 1857, only two years after Mrs. Tayloe's death. In those days, anyone with a mind to do so could simply call himself an "architect." Forget about training or licensing. The Institute sought to "promote the scientific and practical perfection of its members" and "elevate the standing of the profession." Heavyweights like Richard Morris Hunt, Richard Upjohn, Alexander Jackson Davis, Calvert Vaux, and Leopold Eidlitz were among the founders and first invited members. The Octagon has been a house museum since 1970, and if you have a taste for early Federal elegance, it is definitely worth a visit. The link is http://architectsfoundation.org/preservation/.<br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com51tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-75238600630383648442015-07-09T21:17:00.001-07:002015-07-09T21:17:13.583-07:00Know Your Roosevelts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwITi91yRwWoapHNhk0SSm_Oo6zRvA1T9Zw16QltzdrtPj7bNMMTC_dbezqya7nRGr_euUuRZ8LAZTo22sHfcmNiZYcgsQs0DJrGp4yVckEWeHqZL0XepjeplsSI8HDmn5M_4Ew10kq4Q/s1600/IMG_9761.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwITi91yRwWoapHNhk0SSm_Oo6zRvA1T9Zw16QltzdrtPj7bNMMTC_dbezqya7nRGr_euUuRZ8LAZTo22sHfcmNiZYcgsQs0DJrGp4yVckEWeHqZL0XepjeplsSI8HDmn5M_4Ew10kq4Q/s640/IMG_9761.JPG" /></a></div>It's as well known that FDR and his wife were cousins, as it is that Geico can save you 15% on car insurance. But "cousins?" How did that work? Claes Martenszan van Rosenwelt (1626-1659) looks to me like "Roosevelt Zero," the man from whose loins sprang Nicholas (1658-1742), who begat Johannes and Jacobus, respective founders of the so-called "Oyster Bay" and "Hyde Park" branches of the Roosevelt clan. Ancient Claes was Oyster Bay Eleanor's great-great-great-great-great-great-grandfather. He was Hyde Park Franklin's great-great-great-great-great-grandfather. That's six "greats" to five. In other words, I'm probably more closely related to Vladimir Putin than Franklin was to Eleanor.<br />
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Much clearer is the cousinship of John (Jack) Ellis Roosevelt (1853-1939) and President Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919). Their fathers were brothers. Jack Roosevelt - lawyer, coal company exec, and personal advisor to "Teedie," as the family called his presidential cousin - was the proprietor of a Sayville, Long Island country place called Meadow Croft. It is seen above in the early 1970s, at about the time his daughter Jean suggested the Sayville Fire Department burn it down for a training exercise. The view below shows it today, reborn through the efforts of the Bayport Heritage Association.<br />
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Like Roosevelts everywhere, the Sayville clan was a sporty bunch - sailing, bathing, motoring, canoeing, you name it. That's Mr. R, happy at the tiller of his boat on the Great South Bay, looking remarkably like the last czar of Russia. Compared to his children and their friends, his idea of beach wear was conservative - a lightweight suit, an informal tie, topped off by what I'm guessing was his favorite style of country cap.<br />
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Here is Mrs Roosevelt, nee Nannie Vance, daughter of a New York politician (and briefly acting NYC mayor) named Samuel H.B. Vance. I'm guessing this was a wedding portrait. The poor woman couldn't have spent much time in that corset before passing out. <br />
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Jack R's father, Robert Barnwell Roosevelt, having bought 215 acres in Sayville in 1873, developed an estate there called Lotus Lake. Jack's brother Robert Jr. subsequently built a house on the paternal spread and called it the Lilacs. In 1890, Jack followed suit, buying a balloon frame center hall colonial farmhouse of exceeding modesty, built in 1867 for a retired sea dog named Captain Woodward. The house was entirely inadequate, but that could be fixed. Besides proximity to his father's estate, the decision to buy was probably influenced by the sudden galloping fashion then descending upon little Sayville. <br />
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It is curiously asserted hereabouts that the south shore villages of Oakdale, Sayville and Bayport were Long Island's original (and somehow its more authentic) "gold coast." In this view of the Universe, the north shore, even Newport itself, were social copycats. This ignores the fact that social Newport significantly predates the Sayville area, and Long Island's famous north shore - that great glittering rectangle from Great Neck to Centerport and Syosset to Manhasset - not only developed at the same time as the south shore, but was at least twenty times as big. <br />
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Part of this confusion stems from the presence of a famous club, gone now for over forty years. I'd be surprised if even a handful of my readers has ever heard of the South Side Sportsman Club at Oakdale. South Side started as a rustic tavern in the wilderness beloved by shooting congnoscenti. It evolved, somewhat unexpectedly, into one of the most exclusive millionaires' clubs in America. Officially chartered in 1886 it dedicated itself to the preservation of the natural world and the pleasures of the rich. In the process, it transformed several unpretentious adjacent villages into destination addresses for upscale country houses. Between the late 1880s and '90s, three really grand ones - Commodore Bourne's Indian Neck Hall, Willie Vanderbilt's Idle Hour and Bayard Cutting's Westbrook - rose amongst the fields and marshes in close proximity to the club. Each in its way was the equal of just about any other house anywhere in the country. However, there were only three of them. <br />
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OK, OK, there were lots of other nice places, and some were pretty big. Most, however, tended to be on the scale of Jack Roosevelt's Meadow Croft. The Sayville of the past reminds me of the Millbrook of the present, where I live now. It's really nice, but it's also really small. South Side at its peak in 1907 had thousands of protected acres, an Isaac H. Green designed clubhouse annex, a private railroad platform, a big rep and all of 100 members. It folded in 1973. Now called the Connetquot River State Park, the old millionaires' club has become an enormous wooded island in a sea of suburban houses. The village of Sayville retains an unpretentious charm, but the former rural graciousness of its surrounding countryside is gone. <br />
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In 1974, Suffolk County had the good sense to buy Meadow Croft on 64 of the Roosevelt family's original 250 acres. Meadow Croft is now part of the romantically named Sans Souci Lake Nature Preserve, a three mile long finger of unspoilt greenery separating Sayville from neighboring Bayport. "Integrity of site" is a figure of speech in the "Preservoid" dialect of the English language. It refers to historic structures whose immediate surroundings (including view lines) haven't been ruined by parking ramps, garden apartments, expressways, sewage treatment plants... (let me see; what else have I seen?) ... ah yes, hideous modern additions, nearby airports, high tension lines, etc., etc. More remarkable, frankly, than the Roosevelt house itself is the sense one has at Meadow Croft of being literally transported to old Sayville's world of narrow lanes, tall waving grasses, rambling summer houses, big lawns and quiet woods, "quiet" being one of the modern world's rarest luxuries. <br />
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The Roosevelts dealt with Capt. Woodward's deficient farm house by hiring a prominent local architect named Isaac Henry Green (1859-1937) to double its size. This was completed in 1892. Green was the man who designed South Side's shingle style Annex, numerous houses for local gentry as far out as the Hamptons, a dozen local churches, and the farm complexes, if not the main houses, on the aforementioned Vanderbilt, Cutting and Bourne estates. Green gave Jack Roosevelt a competent Colonial Revival addition, better seen in the images above. It is really an entirely new house, grafted onto the southern wall of the Woodward original. The practice of preserving a useable pre-existing structure within a newer, larger and more fashionable envelope was quite common in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. I live in one of these hybrids myself. Although buried in utilitarian enlargements, Meadow Croft's old wing is easily discernible in the image below. <br />
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Today's patient guide is Jerry McClusky, a man who has his facts straight and a sense of humor. The before and after views below illustrate a vintage front hall in which nothing seems to have been changed. Look again and you'll see that's not the case at all. Those aren't really the same chairs, nor is that the same rug on the floor, or clock on the wall, or table by the door, or anything else. And yet, the coup d'oeil is one of time capsule authenticity. Recreating the past from old photos must have been a lot of fun. <br />
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The drawing room on the west side of the Green addition is an example of similar (if not quite so striking) efforts. The original piano and several of the wicker chairs were donated back to the house by Roosevelt family members. <br />
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The dining room is on the other side of the hall. The table is original, the adjacent serving pantry wonderfully intact. A rope and pulley trunk elevator is tucked in a hall outside. <br />
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The door on the north wall of the serving pantry used to be the front door to the old sea captain's house. The original plan of that house, interesting to note, wasn't all that different from Green's stylish front addition. The Roosevelts combined the captain's parlor with a contiguous room in back to make a new library. The long white coats are dusters, obligatory motor wear for auto travel in the unpaved past. <br />
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The view below looks from the library to Capt. Woodward's former front door. Instead of being thrown out and replaced, the old door has survived as one of Meadow Crofts may small charms. The captain's dining room was across the hall from the parlor, much as the Roosevelts' is in the new wing. Mr. R was a tinkerer who converted this room into a country workshop. <br />
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The captain's kitchen occupied a one-story extension on the back of his house. Indeed, it's still there, buried now in subsequent additions. The direct route from the new dining room leads through the pantry, past the main stair of the old house (re-purposed as a back stair), and ends at an appealing country kitchen whose distant location is redeemed (assuming you're not the one hauling platters of meat) by architectural whimsey. Somebody at Bayport Heritage decided 1910 was a Roosevelt family high water mark, and Meadow Croft's interiors have been interpreted accordingly. Stove, ice box, and ice chest are all Rooseveltian; the rest of the kitchen is stuffed with things - many of whose uses are extremely obscure - you'd need if you were a cook in 1910. <br />
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A door on the south wall of the kitchen leads to a small servants' dining room, which in turn connects to Mr. Roosevelt's workshop. It probably used to be a pantry. <br />
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A door on the north wall of the kitchen leads to the laundry room.<br />
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So much for the main floor of this friendly old vacation house near the sea. Let's retrace our steps to the front hall and climb to 2.<br />
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A door on the right at the top of the stairs leads to the owners' suite, not planned with a lot of sophistication perhaps, but including most of the requisite rooms. The first was used as a nursery, then probably as a boudoir. Now it's been "interpreted" (a bit confusingly) as another library. From the windows of the adjoining bedroom, used today as a conference room, I am told you once could see the Great South Bay. Meadow Croft is full of terrific old restored bathrooms, but the one off the owners' bedroom is not one of them.<br />
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The Roosevelts' three girls shared two bedrooms on the other side of the main stairs. The hall bath serving both, plus the owners' bath seen above, were literally hung onto the side of the house in 1909. Each is clearly visible from the lawn outside. A pair of guest rooms and a guest bath are located several steps down, on the second floor of the Woodward house. <br />
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Here's Mr. Roosevelt in 1913, aged 60, looking rather more careworn than he did in that candid on the bay. In 1912, his wife of 33 years died of typhoid fever. Soon after, he met a 29-year-old widow named Edith Hammersley at a Sayville house party hosted by his brother. They took walks, they motored through the countryside, they had long talks. "I asked her if she cared for me," he recounted later, "and she said she did." They married; bad idea. "J. Roosevelt Weeps in Accusing Wife," exclaimed a headline in the New York Times on February 15, 1916, which continued, "I've Been an Ass, Husband Tells Court in Annulment Suit." According to Mrs. R., her husband "made her life unbearable by his exactions...(He) always wanted his own way" Hmmmm. The annulment was granted in 1916. The room and (unrenovated) en suite bath below, located on the second floor of the old house facing the guestrooms, was Mr. R's dressing room. He relocated here when daughter Jean visited with her family. (Jean, like cousin Eleanor, also married a man named Roosevelt). <br />
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Five maids' rooms, located above the kitchen and the laundry room, occupy an extension of the second floor. Some are interpreted, others are full of storage.<br />
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Lets return the way we came, past the old staircase and up the new, to the third floor where there are two more guest rooms and still no water view. <br />
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I discovered Meadow Croft quite by accident last September, en route from Oakdale, where I'd been photographing the Cutting house, to my sister's at Cutchoque. It took a long time to get inside (why so hard? I dunno), but I'm glad I finally did. The link is www.bayportheritage.org.<br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com34tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-41712272257338907042015-07-01T20:22:00.001-07:002015-07-01T20:22:35.462-07:00Edith and Ogden<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd1ksCM14Zi6Y9WyXGVk_B423VJ2V-DuRaiuGnqdLNWvkaPhp5oaGAElZ-a1ofnj5nb_JF-AKo5lKkFLX9axlfXPC32KLKI_hW141tyBEt34QdjO59YNozed6TxoCvcFLH6lPENaMAOOkg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-06-26+at+1.34.54+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd1ksCM14Zi6Y9WyXGVk_B423VJ2V-DuRaiuGnqdLNWvkaPhp5oaGAElZ-a1ofnj5nb_JF-AKo5lKkFLX9axlfXPC32KLKI_hW141tyBEt34QdjO59YNozed6TxoCvcFLH6lPENaMAOOkg/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-06-26+at+1.34.54+PM.png" /></a></div>"We asked him to alter and decorate the house," Edith Wharton wrote in her 1934 memoir, "A Backward Glance." "(It was)...a somewhat new departure, since the architects of that day looked down on house-decoration as a branch of dress-making, and left the field up to the upholsterers, who crammed every room with curtains, lambrequins, jardinieres of artificial plants, wobbly velvet-covered tables littered with silver gee-gaws and festoons of lace on mantelpieces and dressing tables." (Excuse me while I sneeze). Mrs. Wharton gave the job of updating her Newport cottage to a well bred, quick witted 28-year-old wag named Ogden Codman Jr. (1863-1951), whom she found amusing on the subject of the boring people they knew in Newport, and with whom she was in profound agreement on the subject of aesthetics. <br />
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I'd never heard of the Great Fire of 1872 which leveled 65 acres of downtown Boston. Aside from the 30 people who were killed outright, legions more were dealt financial body blows, among them the aristocratic Codmans of Boston and, in the summer, a fine old house in Lincoln, Mass. (BOH visited 'The Grange,' as it's called, in March of last year). Rental portfolio in ruins and cash spigot reduced to a trickle, the Codmans Sr. did what many upscale Americans families in those days (and continued to do until the late 1950s) - they moved to France. Living was cheap, culture abundant, and one's reasons for relocation weren't necessarily obvious. Ogden Jr. was a sensitive 12-year-old when the family resettled in the "Emerald Coast" resort of Dinard. He was 19 when he returned to the States and entered MIT, a convert to the aesthetics of 18th century France, but not so much to Dinard. "Anything is better than that wretched hole of a place," he wrote to his mother in 1883. The family returned to the States in 1884. <br />
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Besides native aesthetic acuity, Ogden Codman Jr, had the benefit of two uncles - architect John Sturges and decorator Richard Ogden - whose encouragement led him in 1891 to open his own design office, with branches in Boston and fashionable Newport. In Newport he met the not-yet-famous but very-well-connected Edith (Mrs. Teddy) Wharton (1862-1937), and it was she who, in 1894, introduced him to Cornelius Vanderbilt II, the churchy, stuffy, unimaginably rich eldest son of the late William Henry Vanderbilt. Mr. Vanderbilt's Newport cottage, called the Breakers, had just burned to the ground. Richard Morris Hunt had designed the new house, and French decorateurs were doing the state rooms on the ground floor. The upper floors, however, were given to young Codman. His elegant, uncluttered, French-influenced interiors launched a career in high society that would ultimately include clients like John D. Rockefeller and Frederick Vanderbilt. Three years after the Breakers commission, realizing he and Edith had a lot to say on the same subjects, they wrote a book together titled "The Decoration of Houses." It was an instant classic and remains one today. I've seen a boatload of fancy New York apartments in the last 20 years, designed by architects who should have read this book and clearly didn't. Had they paid attention to only one of Edith and Ogden's dictums, that proportion - that subtle harmony between width and length and height - was the "good breeding" of architecture, rich America would have been spared a whole lot of lumpy rooms. The chic professionals who labor today to obscure the rotten proportions of so much modern architecture are, ironically, not so far off Edith's 19th century "dress-makers." <br />
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Edith and Ogden's relationship - textbook platonic, I might add - was way too hot not to cool down. They had a terrible falling out (alas, over money) in 1902, amidst construction of the Mount, Edith's house in Lenox, Mass. Codman's life was unaffected by the breach, however, and in 1904 he found a new best friend in the form of Leila Griswold Webb, widow of rich former client named H. Walter Webb, and mother of two orphaned boys, aged 9 and 14 respectively. Of Codman, then 41 years old, one reporter noted, in the code of the day, that, "it had been supposed that he would die a bachelor." In 1907, career going gangbusters, coffers bulging with the former Mrs. Webb's millions, Codman bought a double lot on East 96th Street off Fifth and began planning a new house. Mrs. Codman died unexpectedly in 1910, before the house was even started, and left her widowed husband unfettered not only financially, but in every other way. Just as Oliver Belmont's Belcourt in Newport was originally intended as a palatal stable with one bedroom for a horse-mad bachelor, so Ogden Codman's 7 East 96th Street was built as a French "hotel particulier" for a single aesthete. <br />
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Worthy of note is the unprepossessing tenement neighborhood in which 7 East 96th Street was built. 19th century speculators had kept land prices high on most Central Park blocks, and that had discouraged tenement projects. East 97th Street, however, was not one of those blocks, due in large part to New York Central trains emerging from muffled camouflage in the Park Avenue tunnel into noisy glory under the sunshine at 97th and Park. <br />
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Codman is said to have lifted the Louis XVI facade of 7 East 96th Street directly from plates in Cesar Daly's 1880 "Motifs Historiques d'Architecture." M. Daly did indeed write such a book, but I was unable to find the plates. Given Ogden Codman's background, interests and education, however, this is probably true. Codman spent less than eight years at 7 East 96th Street before backwash from the First World War ruined his architectural business and, in a reprise of his parents' past, he moved to France. This time, however, he had the Webb millions to cushion the blow. 7 East 96th was first rented, then sold to a succession of occupants, including the Nippon Club, founded in 1905 as the first and only Japanese Social Club in the U.S. The Manhattan Country School bought the building in 1966 and substantially altered the interiors for classroom use. <br />
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At the center of the wrought iron balcony railing outside the second floor library are the owner's initials, "OC." But who in the world are "D" and "B" appearing at either end? Perhaps a socially informed reader will clear that one up. Codman's stepsons were John and Henry, not that their initials were likely to show up on his house. <br />
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The Manhattan Country School's mid-1960s alteration, combined with 50 years of galloping schoolchildren, have had an unsurprisingly impact on the Codman house interiors. That said, it's quite possible to recreate the past, thanks to original plans and scattered details surviving here and there. First item of note on the original first floor plan is the porte cochere. This was really an entrance for autos, complete with curb cut at street-side and, at the opposite end of an open courtyard, a garage with turntable and two parking slots. One of those slots doubled as a lift, which enabled the chauffeur (expected in that era to be both driver and mechanic) to get underneath the car. Also on the first floor was a reception room (labeled 'living room,' which it wasn't), and the main kitchen and servants' dining room. A dumbwaiter in an adjacent pantry carried food to the main dining room on the second floor. The elevator was (and still is) located in a small lobby between the main stair and the entrance to the kitchen suite. Except for the reception room and the main stair, everything else on the first floor was blown out in the Sixties. <br />
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If it weren't for the garbage cans, fire escape, storage shed and basketball hoop, you could drive a car through here today. The windows behind the hoop replaced the original garage door.<br />
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The images below are views of the courtyard from a vantage point now located somewhere in the middle of the prewar coop at 1150 Fifth Avenue. Codman's kitchen was at the bottom of the semi-circular bay; his dining room directly above it. The third floor was divided between the owner's private rooms in front, a sort of private living room in the middle, and a string of servants' rooms in back. The fourth floor housed guests and an office in front, and more servants in the back. The pioneering history of tony New York real estate is nothing new, a fact illustrated by tenement laundry literally flapping against Mr. Codman's back wall.<br />
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Let's return to the porte cochere and step inside. If you were arriving for some big "do," you'd progress in stately fashion straight up the grand stair to the second floor. If you were dropping something off, or there for a quick meeting, or if Mr. Codman had no idea who you were, the butler would direct you to the reception room and there you'd wait. Industrial carpeting, Danish modern furniture upholstered in tomato can red and hanging globe lights from the 1960s tend to obscure Codman's beautiful proportions and subtle wall treatments.<br />
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Beyond today's blue doors was the original kitchen suite, now a classroom. Further on was the garage.<br />
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You really get the measure of this house - it's got 15,000 square feet - as soon as you get to the second floor. The old butler's pantry and servant hall have been combined into a new institutional kitchen, but otherwise the original pan is intact. <br />
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After decamping to Paris in 1920, Codman rented 7 East to a couple of swell tenants, among them, for a brief period, Mr. & Mrs. Ronald Tree. In 1944 Tree's ex-wife, who in 1948 became Nancy Lancaster, bought Colefax & Fowler, the famous decorating firm that gave us the English country house look. "I had learned from going to Houghton," Ms. Lancaster wrote, "that to make a room quiet, to make it harmonious, you never wanted to have only one 'mouvement' thing like the Savonnerie rug that would stand out. You must have 'mouvement' everywhere." Now those are words I'd like to live by. The library, letting onto that balcony with the enigmatic railing, is in front overlooking 96th Street.<br />
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In 1924 Codman sold 96th Street to socialite E. Oliver Iselin, who used it as a city house before renting and finally selling it in 1927. More tenants of the high society persuasion ensued, culminating with Richard Allen Knight, a deranged lawyer who in 1942 threatened a judge, got himself disbarred and served 3 months in a workhouse. At the beginning of January, 1948, according to the "New York Times," the 49-year-old Knight died of "general visceral congestion" (you tell me what that is) in his home at 7 East 96th St. The butler found the body. I don't think he found it in the dining room, which lies behind the door below. Oh, how beautiful that dining room was - and could be again today. The Nippon Club, incidentally, left the house pretty shopworn, but mostly intact.<br />
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Outside the dining room, a fragment of wall tile identifies the vanished serving pantry, once connected by dumb waiter to the kitchen below. A cafeteria kitchen now occupies the footprint of the former butler's pantry and servant hall.<br />
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Let's return to the second floor landing and head upstairs. It's one thing to access major public rooms with a sweeping marble staircase, but quite another to reach private areas of the house on floors above. It is, in fact, a canon of Edith and Ogden's "Decoration of Houses" that private areas be reached via private stairs, neither architecturally obvious nor tempting to visitors or unwanted guests. Two doors open discreetly onto the private stair at 7 East 96th; one from the library and the other from the second floor landing. <br />
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Of Mr. Codman's sophisticated plan for the third, or owner's, floor, virtually nothing remains. The owner's suite in the front, misleadingly labeled on the old plan as a pair of bedrooms, has been inelegantly repartitioned. The smaller room has been made bigger, the bigger room smaller. A beautiful stone mantlepiece is no longer centered on its wall. The original bathrooms have, of course, been either eliminated or altered beyond recognition. And yet, tantalizing clues remain - a window detail, a wall of old bathroom tiles, a radiator cover.<br />
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As already noted, the sitting room in the middle of the 3rd floor was likely a private living room or study, or possibly a more personal library. Expanded and re-purposed in the 1960s, it's become the school library. An unusable terrace was enclosed as part of the expansion. Servants' rooms on the back of this floor have been combined into a large classroom. <br />
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The service stair, which hasn't changed at all, may be convenient, but I'm a private stair kind of a guy.<br />
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Even less of the original 4th floor remains. Guests and probably Codman's stepsons were billeted up here. Judging from the adding machine, card files and organized tabletop litter in the vintage view below, Codman also kept an office on 4. What's been done to this room seems more than gratuitous. Much was lost in the 1960s to now discredited architectural conceits. Save for this room and the one next door, nothing else remains of the original floor plan.<br />
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The private stair continues to 5, for which I do not have a plan. I'd guess there was personal storage at this end of the house. The service stair in the back ended at a little chauffeur's penthouse. Can we talk? How cool is that penthouse? Safe to say that, for such a place atop a mansion off Fifth, many a pied a terre hunter would, put simply, kill. Penthouse and storage were originally separated by an open terrace, now filled with a school addition.<br />
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Of course I went to the roof, gazed down at the filled-in terrace on 5, then at 96th Street below the dormers. I didn't take the service stairs, but descended in style via private and ceremonial flights.<br />
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In 1929 Codman bought a rundown villa in Villefranche-sur-Mer called La Leopolda, resurrecting it with such lavishness that he could barely afford to live there. An amusing story concerns efforts by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor to rent the place, but only subject to certain alterations. Codman responded briskly to the idea, writing, "I regret that the House of Codman is unable to do business with the House of Windsor." Leopolda guzzled Codman's funds - reduced significantly in the wake of the stock market crash - and even, to his posthumous shame, soaked up a sizable chunk of his stepsons' inheritance. He survived the war better than most, treated with courtesy by Nazi officers billeted at his Chateau de Gregy. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieU2vm5PV6SVrhMu7bkTV8E-nzsPEqNt_V_zSudVZdYjsIJClvFJye4LGvmVjLRU7BPeXI60UBAuQqFefc72eha3gqBeSxy516t27XyAu-ZdRdSRGYVtBff_x9aKeZupzT9nsyHGtLLBkD/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-06-26+at+2.16.21+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieU2vm5PV6SVrhMu7bkTV8E-nzsPEqNt_V_zSudVZdYjsIJClvFJye4LGvmVjLRU7BPeXI60UBAuQqFefc72eha3gqBeSxy516t27XyAu-ZdRdSRGYVtBff_x9aKeZupzT9nsyHGtLLBkD/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-06-26+at+2.16.21+PM.png" /></a></div><br />
Let me end our visit to 7 East 96th Street with Harper Pennington's portrait of a nude blond youth, inscribed on the back, "To Ogden Codman, 1901." For a painting that's only a foot and half tall, it has a lot of message. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoPdMQ_H2nPBjUqGY97lJgZxUPK8oma65b7JfVwww61ao2kkZkMaFgFCNzq9rHwIltyyU47u4O63euSFjU9eGqp6czy_9CeGI94VooaWKiSMXHypTzEWFhmTuqFDuIinFaLe9bRi8woJxN/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-06-26+at+1.46.30+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoPdMQ_H2nPBjUqGY97lJgZxUPK8oma65b7JfVwww61ao2kkZkMaFgFCNzq9rHwIltyyU47u4O63euSFjU9eGqp6czy_9CeGI94VooaWKiSMXHypTzEWFhmTuqFDuIinFaLe9bRi8woJxN/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-06-26+at+1.46.30+PM.png" /></a></div>John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-26157514783671940982015-06-24T21:23:00.001-07:002015-06-24T21:23:23.384-07:00Where Are They Now?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjwOqUBAzoanU5QOe0yUoxq1gW4Ic4-eXK08AJ9DgZ3nBQ4lEncPhSk1EcIrAJJ8acFg06pM8pCalPF-tkGgRFEpksr2MC4W-hlV1unFufhK7NIzBei0dgBDuLIyTEcwW8whNivf9McgWb/s1600/IMG_8949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjwOqUBAzoanU5QOe0yUoxq1gW4Ic4-eXK08AJ9DgZ3nBQ4lEncPhSk1EcIrAJJ8acFg06pM8pCalPF-tkGgRFEpksr2MC4W-hlV1unFufhK7NIzBei0dgBDuLIyTEcwW8whNivf9McgWb/s640/IMG_8949.JPG" /></a></div>If you're a regular reader of Big Old Houses (and I sincerely hope that you are), you'll immediately recognize Lyndhurst (seen above), the astonishing "American Gothic" castle located in Tarrytown, New York, completed in its present condition in 1865. The celebrated (by architectural historians, anyway) Alexander Jackson Davis designed it, but it is better known for the villainous Wall Street manipulator who bought it in 1880, Jay Gould. <br />
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After Mr. Gould's death in 1892, first his daughter Helen, and then her younger sister Anna (who became the Duchess of Talleyrand-Perigord) continued to own the house until 1961. That's the duchess, clutching her little dog after a prudent departure from Paris on the eve of the Second World War. <br />
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Here's the girls' brother, George Jay Gould, virtuoso of the "wrong step" in everything from business to marriage to real estate. Frank Crowninshield's amusing 1908 book, "Manners for the Metropolis," warns social aspirants (tongue in cheek, OK?) to beware a certain category of acquaintances who are, as he puts it, "on the green, but not dead to the hole." That was George Gould, all right, and you could say the same about his spectacular house, Georgian Court, whose gates and garden facade are illustrated below. It's in Lakewood, New Jersey, a fleetingly fashionable resort deserted by society types with (as we say in real estate) rockets on their butts many (many) years ago. Both Lyndhurst and Georgian Court have been explored in depth in earlier columns. The topic of today's post is: Where are the people who owned them today? <br />
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The answer is Woodlawn Cemetery in the Bronx, the greatest necropolis in America and (maybe) in the world. Three hundred thousand people, among them "Le tous" New York Society, share 400 acres of rolling hills, shimmering lawns, specimen trees and, in certain swankier districts, a stunning total of 1,271 private mausoleums, ranging in design from the merely expensive to the historically important. Woodlawn was founded in late 1863, the first "loved one" lowered into the earth in January of 1865. It caught fire with the plutocracy after the 1884 construction of the Gould family mausoleum, designed by one Hamilin French, an architect of whom I've never heard. Funny isn't it? Although loathed by the general public, the construction of Gould's mausoleum ignited a fashion for the cemetery. (Maybe understandable, if you think about it). The weeping beech beside the mausoleum is now bigger than the building itself. I wanted to go inside, but the key didn't work. <br />
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Also at Woodlawn are former owners of another of my big old houses, Belcourt in Newport, R.I. They are Oliver Hazard Perry Belmont, charming son of Rothschild represent August Belmont, and his redoubtable wife, Alva. Mrs. B was many things - builder of palaces from Fifth Avenue to Newport, brave divorcee (from W.K. Vanderbilt, at a time when divorce was social suicide), braver champion of women's rights, and the mother who forced her daughter to marry the Duke of Marlborough. Her reasons for the latter were actually quite sound but, as all of us must learn (hopefully sooner than later), we must let our children make their own mistakes. Richard Morris Hunt, who designed 660 Fifth Avenue and Marble House in Newport for Alva, also designed Belcourt for her husband in 1894, before the Belmonts' marriage. Their mausoleum at Woodlawn is an immodest miniaturization of the chapel of St. Hubert in Amboise, France, designed by Hunt's sons in 1908. <br />
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Alva Belmont, erudite student of Gothic art and a great one for fitting out her many houses with Gothic Rooms, was clearly the guiding hand behind Hunt and Hunt's design. Some years ago, a clever Woodlawn intern announced that the praying figure above the front door was actually Mr. Belmont. The story has currency to this day. Had that intern also been clever enough to look at pictures of Mr. Belmont, he would have realized the statue looks nothing like him. Considering Alva's mad preoccupation with Gothic accuracy, it might well depict some actual historical character from the middle ages. But her husband, it ain't.<br />
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Here are Jonathan and Harriet Thorne, presently horizontal residents of Woodlawn, but formerly builders of another subject of my column, 1028 Fifth Avenue. The Thorne family has a railed plot, as opposed to a mausoleum, and within it rest numerous generations with room for numerous more. I'm assuming Mrs. Thorne is in here somewhere, but I forgot to look for her. (I'm bad).<br />
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There are two main entrances to Woodlawn. This one is on Jerome Avenue, a little south of East 233rd Street, practically facing the last station on the #4 train. Yes, you can take the subway to Woodlawn. The second entrance is on the opposite side of the cemetery, at the corner of 233rd Street and Webster Avenue, across from the Woodlawn stop on Metro North. Proximity to the railroad (tracks were laid in 1865) vaulted Woodlawn over its great competitor, Green-Wood Cemetery in Brooklyn. You could take a train to the former from 42nd and Park, as opposed to fighting downtown traffic and taking a ferry across the river to the latter. After 1871 you could even rent a special Woodlawn car at Grand Central, to whisk loved one and mourners alike directly to the Webster Avenue gate. <br />
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Very early on, in 1867, Woodlawn adopted the so-called "landscape-lawn" plan which, the Thorne plot notwithstanding, substituted circular plots and a serpentine road plan for the usual right-angled geometry and abundant fencing of most cemeteries to that date. Woodlawn was - and still is - a for-profit undertaking, continued improvements to which included a fashionable replacement of the Jerome Avenue gate in 1915. You might think of Woodlawn as a sort of enormous coop, whose Cemetery Corporation owns the land and collects a form of maintenance from individual Cemetery Association members, each of whom who can build whatever he wants on his designated plot. In 2011 Woodlawn became a National Historic Landmark. So far none of the major mausoleum owners has attempted any architectural bollixing, and let's hope none does.<br />
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You could loop around this place for hours, in part because roads followed in one direction look completely different when followed in another. Plus which, it's typical to admire some stunning vista of weeping angels, towering obelisks, specimen trees, etc., etc. without realizing you've already looked at it from three other angles. <br />
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I will spare you Woodlawn's list of important architects and sculptors, which you probably wouldn't remember, and limit myself instead to a short "statue tour." <br />
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Not every business heavyweight or society leader was buried so magnificently. Birdie (Mrs. Graham Fair) Vanderbilt, owner of the beautiful French mansion at 60 East 93rd Street seen below (one of my BOH favorites), rests beneath a comparatively simple bench. <br />
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Society leader Percy Rivington Pyne, builder of 680 Park Avenue, lies beneath a simple slab in a sort of sacred grove. Part of this simplicity may stem from the fact that Mr. Pyne died 60 days before the stock market crash of 1929, which fact did not deter the powers that be from taxing his estate at its pre-crash value. <br />
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I wanted to check out three more individuals whose houses appeared on Big Old Houses. We'll take the scenic route to the first.<br />
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This fierce looking individual was Henry H. Cook, a prototypical Victorian macher who summered at Tanglewood (today's warm weather home of the Boston Pops), and kept a big and not particularly beautiful house on Fifth Avenue and 78th Street. He was the man who developed the famous Cook Block, located between Fifth, Madison, 78th and 79th Streets, whose original restrictive covenants, despite no longer being in force, have managed to preserve the grandest and most intact mansion block on Manhattan. Cook's house was replaced in 1912 by Horace Trumbauer's palace for tobacco baron James B. Duke. <br />
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William Sloane, of the W. & J. Sloane furniture emporium family, hired society architects Delano & Aldrich to build Merestead in the country and 686 Park Avenue in town. The Sloane family mausoleum looks a sight better indoors than Mr. Cook's.<br />
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The last (and possibly the richest) of those persons whose houses I've written about, is Standard Oil heir Edward Harkness, seen below with his wife Mary. James Gamble Rogers designed the Harkness house in New York, at 75th and Fifth, as well as the mausoleum below, whose walled garden was designed by Beatrix Farrand. Woodlawn's elaborate funerary architecture was originally complimented by equally elaborate landscaping, much of which has disappeared from lack of maintenance. The Harkness plot is an exception.<br />
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The people I've written about in Big Old Houses belonged to an important group at Woodlawn, but they constitute a small - if highly visible - fraction of the cemetery's total number of "loved ones." Somewhere on these 400 acres is an example of pretty much every style of monument you can think of, sitting on top of a whole lot of people you've heard of, and a whole of others you haven't. <br />
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Did you know that Herman Melville is buried at Woodlawn? So is Thomas Nast, Joseph Pulitzer, Irving Berlin, Admiral Farragut, Fiorello LaGuardia, Robert Moses, Duke Ellington and the Queen of Salsa, Celia Cruz. The biggest private plot covers six and a half acres; the smallest accommodates a simple slab with enough room to walk around it. Some people, like Col. William Boyce Thompson who, together with the staircase in his beautiful Yonkers mansion is illustrated below, built a mausoleum, had a change of heart, and sold it to someone else. Thompson sold his to a Brooklyn resident named Ernest Arata.<br />
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For years I've been telling people they'd be amazed by this place. My visit today was a result of a call from Eline Maxwell at the Woodlawn Conservancy, suggesting I write about it for Big Old Houses. Good idea; I'm glad I did. <br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com40tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-42811683179940374462015-06-17T21:44:00.000-07:002015-06-22T16:37:28.704-07:00A Consummation of Earthly Bliss<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpK_Iz1Fw-kS8tWrGgGY5gfATrOlhyfM39KpMASK3XOrIHmf1fNVCxuTjk3_C-5I2fT6xSmkgRvsc6XreJUK_Hr9QkoCz_z4xsqVtr6gJcJ6wucajz3H67oFwvnnvMVqPHFg7M-kzRQx_c/s1600/IMG_9504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpK_Iz1Fw-kS8tWrGgGY5gfATrOlhyfM39KpMASK3XOrIHmf1fNVCxuTjk3_C-5I2fT6xSmkgRvsc6XreJUK_Hr9QkoCz_z4xsqVtr6gJcJ6wucajz3H67oFwvnnvMVqPHFg7M-kzRQx_c/s640/IMG_9504.JPG" /></a></div>In 1818, a poetic teenager from North Carolina named Robert Donaldson (1800-1872) stood at the rail of a Hudson River steamer in the moonlight, bound from Albany to New York. "Passed the celebrated scenery of the Hudson at Night by a Full Moon," he wrote, in a journal distinguished by a liberal use of capitalization. "(N)o doubt was more Sublime, than if seen in the Day...The Banks are lined with elegant villas - thought it was the consummation of Earthly Bliss to live in one of those palaces, on such a Noble River, under such a Government." Oh, those Victorians. I used to keep a journal myself, until, in a moment of clarity, I realized I had little to say to posterity and threw the thing out. Luckily, Donaldson didn't. The drawing above, from an 1850 Valentine's Manuel of Old New York, shows one of those bliss-inducing villas. Well, technically it doesn't, since Edgewater House, as depicted above, was built three years after young Donaldson's moonlight cruise. It is still a private estate, by the way, whose erudite owner put Donaldson's quote on his pool house wall.<br />
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Edgewater (for a short time called River Lawn) stood originally on Livingston land, they being the grandest and richest of the Hudson Valley seigneurs. The columned part was built in 1821 by John R. Livingston (1755-1851), brother of the famous Chancellor and deeded in 1823 to his daughter Margaretta in honor of her wedding to Captain Lowndes Brown of Charleston, SC. After about 30 years of Brown family occupancy, Mrs. B endured a sort of bad luck trifecta. Her father died in 1851; Captain Brown died in 1852; and the final indignity came in 1852, when the State of New York condemned a strip of land stretching from New York City to Rensselaer County upstate in order to facilitate construction of the Hudson River Railroad. This right-of-way slashed its way up the east shore of the river, isolating with scalpel-like precision the little peninsula on which the Widow Brown's house had stood for 30 years. Worse, the tracks when finally laid were about 60 feet from the front door. (Shades of Robert Moses and the Long Island Expressway). Mrs. Brown promptly unloaded the property to none other than that moony teenager of 1818 who, having inherited a fortune from a rich uncle, was now a prosperous 52-year-old Manhattanite. It was he who tacked on the wing on the left, about which more in a moment.<br />
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Here I am at the gate to Edgewater, probably more blissful today than it ever was in the past. A private residence today, it will one day be owned by something called the Classical American Homes Preservation Trust, a 501(c)(3) not-for-profit founded in 1993 by Richard H. (Dick) Jenrette, Wall Street banker and former CEO of Equitable Life. At the moment the Trust owns three early- to mid-19th century houses, each restored to lapidary quality. However, another three of similar quality and pedigree - notable among them, Edgewater - are occupied by Mr. Jenrette as private houses. There's not much room between the tracks and the river, but what there is has been manipulated with considerable skill into a dramatic approach to the house. <br />
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The railroad so infuriated Mrs. Brown that she decamped to Europe, vowed never to return and, true to her word, she never did. The trains didn't bother Mr. Donaldson, however, who bought Edgewater with the intention of subdividing its 250 acres, the great majority of which lay on the inland side of the tracks. Donaldson was an influential boomer of Alexander Jackson Davis (1803-1892), one of the great proselytizers for the Gothic Revival. Davis's taste was a far cry from Edgewater's symmetrical Greek simplicity, and to his dismay, patron Donaldson fell unexpectedly under the spell of it. "You will be surprised and perhaps pained," Donaldson wrote in 1852, "to learn that I have given up all purposes of building a villa...and intend to live and die in this Greek temple." So instead of a villa, Davis designed a new octagonal library, which was added to the north end of the house in 1854. At the same time, Edgewater's original brick envelope was encased in stucco, scored into faux blocks, and faux-painted to look like brownish marble. <br />
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Here's a better look at the library wing, and the adjacent columned porch.<br />
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Donaldson heirs continued at Edgewater until 1902, when they sold the property to a member of one of the old river families with roots on an adjoining estate. John Jay Chapman (1862-1933) was a noted essayist, critic, poet and, unfortunately, a borderline lunatic who, in 1887 assaulted a man he wrongly believed had offended his fiance. In an agony of remorse he then plunged his offending hand into a fire, damaging it so severely it had to be amputated. Ouch. After buying Edgewater, Chapman and his wife built a house called Sylvania (still extant and in mint condition) up the hill from the old Donaldson place, which they closed. After J.J. Chapman's death in 1933, his son Conrad inherited Edgewater, eventuially selling it in 1942 to Robert and Laura Taylor. Wartime mobilization had unfortunately resulted in smoke belching troop trains filled with men and materiel roaring back and forth pretty much 24 hours a day. The Taylors decided they couldn't live in the house, closed it up, and so it remained until 1949. <br />
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Conversation still ceases when Amtrak roars by, but nowadays it doesn't roar by very often. Plus which, you can't actually see the tracks, hidden as they are by ornamental walls and clever landscaping. Birdsong, the rustling waters of the Hudson, and a reassuring drone of distant lawnmowers seem the only intrusion into this Eden-like world - at least, until the Amtrak to Poughkeepsie passes. Mr. Jenrette bought the house in 1969 and he and his late partner Bill Thompson spent the next 45 years focusing on it considerable love, scholarship and no small amount of money. It is furnished today with the fruits of what might be called a high class scavenger hunt, the prizes being original furnishings. Not everything here belonged to the Donaldsons, but an amazing amount of it did, and what didn't is usually museum quality.<br />
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Inside the front door, immediately to the right, is a reception room - or morning room, as Mr. Jenrette calls it - that probably was Mr. Brown's office, and later a Donaldson guest bedroom. It is today decorated with a portrait of Donaldson's wife (on the terrace of their house opposite the Battery in New York), and furnished with her recamier (designed by Duncan Phyfe), her harp, her sofa, even a benign looking photographic likeness of her (presumably taken before the arrival of the railroad). Even the color on the walls is correct to the Donaldson period. <br />
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The door on the right in the image below leads to a drawing room whose tall french doors open onto the columned porch. Pretty much everything in sight has a distinguished provenance, especially the Duncan Phyfe sofa and chairs. In point of fact, Mr. Jenrette's Classical American Homes Preservation Trust owns the largest collection of Duncan Phyfe furniture in the country. The obligatory Washington portrait, in this case by Charles Peale Polk, hangs above a Washington clock from a Sotheby's auction. <br />
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A short hyphen containing a modern powder room connects Davis's 1854 library to the original house. No books to speak of are in sight anymore, at least not in this room. The bust over the door? That's John Jay, President of the Continental Congress, Governor of New York, and First Chief Justice of the U.S. Supreme court.<br />
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Guess who this is? OK, some of you already know - it's Gore Vidal (1925-2012), author of one of my all time favorite books, "Burr." Vidal's 1973 depiction of the courtly, cranky, and charming old reprobate Aaron Burr forever tarnished my impression of Thomas Jefferson. Vidal bought Edgewater from the Taylors for $16,000, sold it in 1969 to Jenrette at what seemed an enormous profit, and regretted doing so for the rest of his life.<br />
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The dining room is at the south end of the house, on the other side of the drawing room. The portrait is of Mr. Donaldson, part of a trove of Donaldsonia that included paintings, silver, a grandfather clock, sofas, chairs, family photographs, etc., etc., most of which had originally lived at Edgewater. Mr. Jenrette discovered it in Spain, of all places, in the house of a Donaldson great-granddaughter, and was able to buy it after her death. The dining chairs were Donaldson's, the table a lucky match. <br />
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A sleek little service pantry opens off the southern corner of the dining room. Beyond it, stairs descend to a basement kitchen, plus what was originally a servants' dining room. The latter is unused today, all meals being taken upstairs. Gore Vidal installed the garage at the north end of the house. <br />
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Time to go upstairs.<br />
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This is Mr. Jenrette's Edgewater bedroom. He also has a bedroom at the Roper House on the Battery at Charleston and one at Cane Garden on St Croix. All three are future properties of the Classical American Homes Preservation Trust but, for the time being, serve as his private residences. During a career of moving and shaking on Wall Street, Mr. Jenrette found time to buy and coax back to life a total of fourteen houses, making him a sort of old house sultan with his own seraglio. Besides the three in today's Trust (the others are Millford Plantation in Pinewood, SC, Ayr Mount in Hillsborough, NC and the George F. Baker Houses on East 93rd St.) he has at various times owned addresses as diverse as 150 East 38th St., 27 East 11th St., 37 Charlton St., and 1 Sutton Place North. The portrait of him was painted in 1984 by Peter Egeli; Brooke Astor used to own the mantel clock.<br />
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Exquisite (an adjective I don't often use) as Edgewater may be, it predates the era of grand bathrooms. Each of the three bedrooms on the second floor has it's own bath, and they're nice but unexciting. The mirrors in Mr. J's are oddly convex and make me look thinner than I already am. <br />
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The second bedroom is similarly sized.<br />
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In order to squash a bathroom into the third, a window has been partly blocked.<br />
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But wait, there's more. On the third floor is a spectacular library that might be the stacks in some small exclusive college. A fourth bedroom is under siege by advancing book shelves.<br />
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Edgewater is often on tours and open to special groups, but I doubt anyone gets to see it as thoroughly as we have.<br />
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Two additional structures were added to the property in 1998 - the pool house we saw earlier and the Palladian guest house below. Both are early projects of New York architect Michael Dwyer, a man who builds new houses for people with old house sensibilities. I love my sprawling antique manse in Millbrook, but I could almost see myself living here. Well, almost. <br />
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The map below shows Edgewagter's environs during the Civil War, when Mr. Donaldson still owned the Brown's 250 acres across the tracks. The skinny plot where Edgewater still stands lies west of the tracks, and stretches from about the "B" in "Barrytown" to a little below the "R" in "R. Donaldson." Edgewater itself sits on that little headland sticking into the river. The guest house is across the small bay to the north of the house. John Jay Chapman's wife was one of the famous Astor Orphans (a terrific story for another time) who grew up at Rokeby. He and his wife bought the Donaldson property in order to build Sylvania. Massena belonged to Mrs. Brown's father, John Livingson. The late Reverend Sun Myung Moon's Unification Theological Seminary owns the property today. Despite all the changes, this small corner of the world looks eerily like it has for centuries. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9TmISFcaoRvAQBz9PY1gBEqJVuEyyMaFFzCfa6FSAy4H-sCJvQHFxlDniuQ_5-kZ3TaUfGzYxB5S3hfXP85GnKpUTPTC-UkRPlMKmR4zbiPaKp-bTb1reUfv4pEYjIQgDXUzxD5ndIk-o/s1600/IMG_9503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9TmISFcaoRvAQBz9PY1gBEqJVuEyyMaFFzCfa6FSAy4H-sCJvQHFxlDniuQ_5-kZ3TaUfGzYxB5S3hfXP85GnKpUTPTC-UkRPlMKmR4zbiPaKp-bTb1reUfv4pEYjIQgDXUzxD5ndIk-o/s640/IMG_9503.JPG" /></a></div>John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-54617511225822805792015-06-10T21:13:00.001-07:002015-06-12T04:48:12.954-07:00Society Types on East 93rd Street<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWbzkIw8l8_qyGYCmdqZ7wi4SejIEi9spaBd3JSQq1JGwVCMx1Zd-M7IkAExxELHbgtojLoV-7tU1C2xpRBj-ODEu1AdiLdf8Vt0SyZj78DJ8HAZBtWURMeGvQGHMzuAeZLXHWiRRc55pe/s1600/1960s.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWbzkIw8l8_qyGYCmdqZ7wi4SejIEi9spaBd3JSQq1JGwVCMx1Zd-M7IkAExxELHbgtojLoV-7tU1C2xpRBj-ODEu1AdiLdf8Vt0SyZj78DJ8HAZBtWURMeGvQGHMzuAeZLXHWiRRc55pe/s640/1960s.png" /></a></div>I read in the Times last week that a "mystery European buyer" plonked down $47,782,186 (and 53 cents) for the 58th floor at One57, that suavely anonymous glass tower across the street from Carnegie Hall. (The one where the crane blew off during Hurricane Sandy). I wondered how $47 mil compared to the $200 thousand paid in 1931 by the not-so-anonymous Mrs. Graham Fair Vanderbilt to build the French mansion seen above, located at 60 East 93rd St. Measuringworth.com estimated the answer to be anywhere from $2,270,000 to $37,800,000, depending if the question pertained to "historic opportunity," "labor" or "economy cost." I'll admit I almost flunked statistics in college, but one takeaway informed my adult life ever since, to wit: decide on your conclusion first, then find the statistic to back it up. <br />
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Mrs. Vanderbilt (1875-1935), nee Virginia Graham Fair, was the daughter of a rough and tumble '49-er named James G. Fair (1831-1894), a self-centered, womanizing, heavy drinking, child neglecting Irish immigrant known, not too flatteringly, as Slippery Jim. In 1859, the Nevada Comstock Lode turned Fair and three Irish cohorts - Mackay, Flood and O'Brien - into silver kings. Fourteen years later, the so-called Big Bonanza mine made them even richer. Fair became a U.S. Senator from Nevada in 1881 and spent his single term in Washington promoting silver issues, chasing skirts and drinking heavily. His wife, a former frontier rooming house operator named Theresa Rooney, divorced him in 1883, took a fat settlement, the four kids (including the 8-year old future Mrs. Vanderbilt) - and left. <br />
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Here's Birdie, as friends and family called her, painted by Boldini in 1905. In 1899 she had married William K. Vanderbilt Jr. (1878-1944), grandson of William Henry Vanderbilt, the richest man in the world. Birdie traveled a very long way from the shoot-em-up saloons of boomtown Nevada to the society salons of the New York Vanderbilts, not that she needed money. Her reprobate father, dead at the age of 63, had settled a multi-million dollar trust on her and her sister Tessie, in spite of the fact the latter had specifically dis-invited him from her 1890 wedding to East Coast socialite Hermann Oelrichs. Tessie was worried, with justification, that her father would turn up drunk. From generosity or remorse, he gave her a wedding check anyway, for a million dollars. <br />
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Handsome Willie Vanderbilt Jr. spoke French, sailed yachts, raced cars, even worked in the family railroad empire, albeit not to exhaustion. He was a faithful husband who gave his wife three children and apparently drove her crazy. She left him 1909. Perhaps because of her own parents' divorce, Birdie resolutely refused to divorce Willie, citing her Catholic religion as an excuse. They lived married but apart for the next 18 years. <br />
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When he moved out in 1909, Willie left Birdie and the children here, at 666 Fifth Avenue. Designed by McKim, Mead & White and completed in 1905 (the same year as the Boldini portrait), the house had been a gift from Willie's father. Willie Jr. and Birdie, naturally enough, also kept a country place, located at Lake Success on Long Island and seen in the second image below. The main house at Deepdale, as the place was called, is, amazingly, extant (mostly, anyway), albeit hemmed in now by a postwar suburban subdivision. <br />
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Willie kept Deepdale after the breakup, but Birdie, needing the requisite country place for herself, hired John Russell Pope (1874-1937) to design this astonishing looking Tudorama composition deep in the formerly spacious woods of Jericho, Long Island. Mrs. Graham Fair Vanderbilt, as she now styled herself, took possession in 1911. <br />
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The day came, however, when her estranged husband fell in love. For reasons unclear (at least to me) Birdie relented at last, agreed to a divorce, and in 1927 W.K. Vanderbilt Jr. married the former Rosamund Lancaster (1898-1947), divorced since 1926 from aviator sportsman Barclay (Buzz) Warburton. <br />
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Willie's second marriage seemed to unblock his former wife, at least as far as real estate was concerned. She sold 666 Fifth Avenue to John D. Rockefeller, who tore it down in 1928 to build what was essentially a 6-story taxpayer on the site. Then she bought an immense triplex occupying the entire first, second and third floors of 660 Park Avenue, a coop then under construction on the corner of 67th Street. The Times described Mrs. Vanderbilt's future home as "generally considered one of the finest apartments ever built in New York." Something gave her cold feet, however, because before the place was finished she flipped it to an engineering bigwig named Seton Porter, and rehired Pope to design a house on a trio of lots on East 93rd Street. Pease & Elliman had, in fact, assembled half of the southern blockfront between Madison and Park on behalf of Birdie and her pal, Mrs. William Goadby Loew (a.k.a. Queenie). Their side by side houses were finished 1931. Why 93rd Street? I think because Queenie's brother, George F. Baker Jr., lived across the street. <br />
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Around this same time, Birdie disposed of her Pope-designed house in Jericho, bought a place in Manhasset, and named it Fairmont. It also survives, in a manner of speaking, as the Strathmore Vanderbilt Country Club, centerpiece since 1939 of William Levitt's Strathmore subdivision. Pope was a classicist, although you wouldn't guess it from Jericho. He was the first winner of the Prix de Rome (in 1894), attended the American Academy in Rome, studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris, and worked for Bruce Price in New York. If none of this means much to you, take it from me, it's impressive. Pope is the man who designed the Jefferson Memorial in Washington D.C., the classical entrance wing of the Museum of Natural History on Central Park West, and many many fine houses in town and in the country. He was an ardent believer in the City Beautiful Movement, and his best houses display an unerring grasp of 18th century Georgian and French design. His colleagues called him "the last of the Romans."<br />
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60 East 93rd was finished in 1931, has a 57-foot streetfront, and is clad in limestone quarried and cut in France, then shipped to New York and assembled onsite. Its interiors have been subjected to very hard use and a good deal of architectural cannibalism. At least to my eye, however, it is like an aristocratic old woman whose bone structure renders her shockingly beautiful, in spite of the vicissitudes of time. Queenie's house, finished the same year, is still next door st #56. It's now a part of the Spence School.<br />
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The greatest damage to the house occurred during ownership by the Lycee Francais de New York. This otherwise admirable institution bought the building from the Romanian U.N. Mission in 1978 and converted it - none too gently - to classroom use. Details were trashed, partitions thrown up, antique parquet de Versailles trampled to wafer thinness, accoustical ceilings hung, institutional bathrooms inserted... you get the picture. It may have been inevitable, but resulting damage to a thing of beauty still hurts. In 2002, international antiques dealer "nonpareil," Carlton Hobbs, bought the place, stripped away the dross, and embarked on a continuing program of restoration. Today's interiors no longer have original fireplaces, light fixtures or paneling, but their fine proportions have reemerged. Lit like a museum, the house is now a showcase for up-market antiques. <br />
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At the south end of the architectural entrance corridor, a 90-degree turn to the left leads to the main hall. <br />
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The door in the middle of the image below leads back to the entrance hall. The open door on the left goes to the dining room, the most intact room in the house. The fireplace is unchanged; in order to minimize food odors the walls are stone (no faux finishes here); the parquet (and that throughout this floor) replicates the antique original. <br />
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A duplexed serving pantry, packed to the ceiling with storage but apparently intact, survives behind a leather swing door, hidden in turn by a mirrored wall panel. <br />
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Let's leave the dining room, cross the main hall and have a look at the drawing room. Houses like this are frequently decorated with paneling and fixtures that started life elsewhere and, as often as not, continue life elsewhere after a sale. Between Mrs. Vanderbilt and the Romanians, 60 East was owned by a stylish socialite named Thelma Foy, about whom more later. and between them I suspect there's been a lot of putting in and taking out. Mr. Hobbs found this room cut in half. Simply by restoring its original footprint he has recaptured much of its original beauty. The noble mantlepiece, like everything else, is for sale. <br />
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Let's return to the main hall, follow a short corridor under the stair, and head down to the basement. The original kitchen, pantry and and servant hall have been re-purposed as offices. Metal cabinetry salvaged from all over the house has been sandblasted (or however they removed the original paint) and reused for a staff kitchen. Outside is a large ivy-walled garden facing south. <br />
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Time to go upstairs.<br />
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Mrs. Vanderbilt was 56 years old when she moved into 60 East 93rd St., a divorcee with two married daughters, a son on whom she doted, plenty of money in spite of the depression, and a comfortable position in society. She was also the owner of Fair Stable, home of Sarazen, a two-time (in 1924 and 1925) United States Horse of the Year - in spite of his small size and ugly temper. There were three main rooms on the second floor of the house on 93rd Street - a morning room and library in the back, and a music room facing the street. The library, now painted a soft sea green, is hard to recognize as such without its vanished built-in bookcases. <br />
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The room in front was the music room. At least that's what the New York Times labeled it in a description of Mrs. Vanderbilt's 1935 funeral. In November of 1933 her son, William K. Vanderbilt III, age 26, disembarked his father's yacht at Miami and began driving north to visit his mother. Cousin Erskine Gwynne came along for the ride. Also in the car was a chauffeur named J. W. Guppy, more groom/postilion/relief driver than actual chauffeur. On November 14th, outside Bunnell, Florida, with young Vanderbilt at the wheel, the car was moving so fast that a bird crashed through the windshield and lacerated his face. After getting stitched up in Jacksonville, and installing a new windshield on the car, Vanderbilt and companions continued north.<br />
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The next day, cruising at 75 on a country road outside Ridgeland, S.C., Vanderbilt sideswiped a parked fruit truck, ripped off the entire right side of the car — being a European right-hand drive model, that's where he was sitting — hurled both himself and Gwynne into the air and trapped Guppy under the overturned wreck. Gwynne, amazingly, wasn't badly hurt; Guppy was pinned under the car but survived; Vanderbilt landed hard on the pavement and died in ten minutes. Does this sound like alcohol was involved? To me, that would be a yes. His devastated mother went into a decline from which she never really recovered. Two years later she died of pneumonia in her bedroom at 93rd Street at the age of 60. While the funeral proceeded in the flower banked music room, a crowd of silent curiosity seekers stood in the rain outside.<br />
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A door on the south wall of the music room leads to the stair to 3.<br />
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The third floor was strictly for family, as that soignee little staircase, tucked away as it is, makes only too clear. The floor was laid out as two luxurious bedroom suites, each with separate boudoir and en suite bath. The baths are gone, as are most of the fireplace mantels, but the moldings and proportions are all still there. The suite in the front looks like this.<br />
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Mrs. Vanderbilt's suite was at the southern end of the corridor in the image below, her rooms accessed from a small circular anteroom. Another original fireplace survives in her bedroom; pale brown woodwork peeps above storage in her former bath; a boudoir is on the other side of the anteroom.<br />
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A mirrored door in Mrs. Vanderbilt's bedroom leads to an elevator landing and stairs to servants' room above. Repartitioned by the Lycee into modern office space, the former servants' rooms are now mostly filled with storage.<br />
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60 East 93rd Street is an erudite design job, grandly scaled, beautifully proportioned, carefully detailed, and cleverly planned for a sophisticated client. I like it a lot.<br />
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In 1937, Birdie Vanderbilt's daughter, Mrs. Henry Gassaway Davis, sold 93rd Street to what the Times called a "well-known New Yorker." This was Thelma Foy (1902-1957), eldest daughter of auto baron Walter Chrysler and wife of a Chrysler director named Byron Foy. Mrs. Foy is remembered as a high strung, vivacious taste-maker, and an authority on Impressionist art and French 18th century furniture, with which she filled her new house. Even before she died, Mrs. Foy was donating some of her more fabulous gowns to the Costume Institute at the Met. In 1954 she began to sicken with leukemia, and she and her husband moved from 93rd Street to a supposedly more manageable apartment at 740 Park Avenue, described by "Vogue" as "the finest French residence in Manhattan." She died at the Memorial Hospital for Cancer in August of 1957, in the midst of ordering a new fall wardrobe. <br />
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The Romanians didn't arrive in a '56 Chrysler Imperial, and I doubt Thelma left in one. However, it seems a fitting metaphor with which to wave (if one can wave a metaphor) goodbye to Thelma Foy. She was one more glamorous taste-maker who took her French fireplaces and paneling with her when she left. My focus in these columns is on architecture and social history, not on furniture. If you own a house like this, you've probably already been shopping at Carlton Hobbs, and if you haven't, you should. <br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-82107268735274467262015-06-03T20:05:00.001-07:002015-06-03T20:05:19.712-07:00Bread Upon the Hudson<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZEqERGmwjbAIvsjmIVy8cHDBlLeBf_1VQUS6juKvZG89KeSOsQe-BTMeXhPrLSDjPYYaCOptloXUljtZ107pQzUx8hQBKGsI6HqSvYDDFNwgjbhYT9PzDFnX9Tm4R24AM3tE3jLj64BsB/s1600/Boni.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZEqERGmwjbAIvsjmIVy8cHDBlLeBf_1VQUS6juKvZG89KeSOsQe-BTMeXhPrLSDjPYYaCOptloXUljtZ107pQzUx8hQBKGsI6HqSvYDDFNwgjbhYT9PzDFnX9Tm4R24AM3tE3jLj64BsB/s640/Boni.png" /></a></div>This arch - and to modern eyes, perhaps a little silly - looking fellow is Paul Ernest Boniface Marquis de Castellane (1867-1932), to friends and family simply "Boni." He is remembered as one of Europe's great fortune hunters, the nobleman who, in 1895, bagged Anna Gould (1875-1961), heiress extraordinaire. She was the youngest daughter of Jay Gould (1836-1892), the American railroad manipulator who defined the term "robber baron." I suspect Boni was a nicer fellow than history gives him credit. Having burned through ten of Anna's many millions in barely eleven years of marriage (no mean feat in an era when one dollar was worth a hundred today), he accepted his eventual fate of becoming an antiques dealer with humor and good grace, even publishing a book titled "The Art of Being Poor." I'll admit Boni has practically nothing to do with today's Big Old House. As a husband, however, he was a potent symbol of a certain American social trajectory, and the house to which his former bride eventually retreated remains an eloquent marker of that same trajectory.<br />
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Called Lyndhurst, the house, now a property of the National Trust for Historic Preservation, is located immediately south of the Hudson River village of Tarrytown. It is about as gorgeous as an American country estate can get. The main gate on Broadway (the same road, incidentally, on which last week's BOH was located) used to look like the first image below. Too skinny for tour buses, I suppose, so now it has been changed. <br />
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The approach to Lyndhurst from the outside world, a critical ingredient in any country layout, leads one through a romantic landscape of sweeping lawns, specimen trees and carefully composed views. It would have taken longer in the horse-drawn era, but the main house, when you get there, is still a wow. <br />
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Lyndhurst's historical importance, not to mention its considerable charm, derives from its evolution, to put it simply, from small to big. In 1838, a former New York City mayor named William Paulding (1770-1854) hired the era's "architect du jour," Alexander Jackson Davis (1803-1892), to design a country place in the newly fashionable "Gothick" style. America in 1838 was still besotted by the Greek Revival, a post-revolutionary design tradition which had littered our towns and hillsides with mock-temples redolent of early democratic symbolism. Davis rightly sensed the nation was ready for a change. He took the architectural world by storm with picturesque, assymetrical, profoundly romantic and occasionally brooding compositions derived from the European Gothic, and in the process became rich. Paulding called his Davis-designed house Knoll, and here's what it looked like upon completion in 1842. Davis further embelished the Paulding place during the family's occupancy, then doubled its size for the next owner. <br />
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In 1864, Paulding's son Philip sold Knoll to a Manhattan dry goods king named George Merritt (1807-1873). Wisely as it turned out, Merritt hired Davis to transform a fashionable but undersized rural villa into a full out country mansion. Merritt renamed the place Lyndenhurst, not to be confused with the present shortened name of Lyndhurst. Elsewhere on the estate he built the largest private greenhouse in America, about which more later. A century and a half later, the estate is not only intact, it's in spectacular condition.<br />
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Merritt died in 1873 and in 1878 his heirs first rented, then two years later sold Lyndenhurst (for $255,000) to the notorious Jay Gould. More a force of nature than a mere mortal, Gould stabbed backs, watered stock, promoted villains like Boss Tweed, even plunged the nation into a financial panic in 1869 while trying, with co-conspirator Jim Fisk, to corner the market in gold. Gould ultimately became the ninth richest man in American history. My favorite Gould quote dates from the 1870s when Commodore Vanderbilt attempted to buy control of the Erie Railroad from the three apocalyptic horseman of Wall Street, Dan Drew, Jim Fisk and Jay Gould. "If the old hog wants more stock," Gould remarked, "we'll print him all he wants." A close second, albeit less amusing, is Gould's observation while hiring strikebreakers during the Great Southwest Railroad strike of 1886, that he could, if he wanted, easily "hire half the working class to kill the other half." That said, he and his heirs were scrupulously respectful of his Davis-designed mansion at Tarrytown. Gould died of pneumonia at the age of 56.<br />
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Davis' wonderful elevation (from the river side) of the Merritt enlargement of 1864 commemorates a clarion call to post-Civil War fashion. That said, it's a long way from the sophisticated work of John Russell Pope, or Delano & Aldrich, or David Adler, or any of a dozen other names I could drop, architects whose elite house designs of the late 19th and early 20th centuries were far more elegant, not to mention easier to live in, albeit never quite as picturesque. <br />
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Howard Zar, Lyndhurst's patient and knowledgeable Executive Director, is unlocking the south door of the vestibule. <br />
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Of note in the main hall: 1) Lots of luscious rare wood and marble surfaces, 95% of which are actually faux painted pine. Indeed, there's hardly a door or a piece of paneling in this place - even in the service areas - that has not been tricked up with some sort of fake finish. 2) In the course of its stint as a private house, Lyndhurst was redecorated in different tastes at different times. Today's interiors represent a compromise - to varying degrees in various rooms - of past decors. The hall busts are of Washington (on the left) and Lafayette (on the right), and they've been here since the house was built. Paulding, by way of explanation, was Lafayette's host during the latter's famous American tour of 1825.<br />
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The drawing room, beyond General Washington at the southern end of the house, has the look of the Paulding era more than any other room in the house. Even the furniture is Davis-designed. During the Gould era this room was heavy with fringed plush, "aesthetic" wallpaper and bulging gasoliers adrip with crystal.<br />
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The reception room, accessed alternately via this door on the north wall of the drawing room, double doors from the main hall, or a third door on the south wall of the library, looks much as it did when the Merritts lived here. The ceiling paintings depict the hours of the day, although how exactly they do so escapes me.<br />
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In the hall outside the reception room, a corridor stretches northward past General Lafayette to the dining room. Located on the left side of this corridor is the library, essentially a double room whose smaller component is called the cabinet. This was the dining room before the Merritt enlargement, and that's Mr. Merritt on the wall.<br />
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The door between the corridor and the library faces the main stair, to which we'll return shortly. For now, let's turn left and visit the dining room, the most Merritt-ish - or Gould-ish, if you will - room in the house, where the Victorian passion for rich color, complicated surfaces and grand proportions is at full cry. Gould rated Marritt's dining room sufficiently luxe to leave it "as is." Who knows what Boni de Castellane, a man who once rented the entire Bois de Boulogne for a party and bought a whole block on the Avenue Foch to build a palace, would have done, had he had the chance. <br />
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I love old serving pantries. This one is reached through a swing door on the dining room's north wall. The open doors are on the dumbwaiter, which connects to the basement kitchen. The cabinetry is probably made of clear pine but even back here it's been disguised to look like oak, or something similar. <br />
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Howard is leading the way down back stairs to the kitchen suite. Although not on any tour, these rooms are still 95% intact. The dumbwaiter is located at the foot of the stairs in what was likely a combination scullery/prep pantry. The kitchen adjoins to the south, fab old cabinetry (just painted white for a change), paneling and original stove all still in situ.<br />
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Anna bequeathed Lyndhurst to the nation in an era when kitchens, servant halls, bathrooms, maids' quarters, etc. were considered to have no historic value and less interest to visitors. Hah! The legacy of this outdated attitude remains in the form of heat pumps, ventilation fans, ductwork and impenetrable forests of insulated piping whose location appears as random as its purpose is obscure. A good example of this is the piping on the ceiling of the servants' hall at Lyndhurst. One day, Howard tells me, the Trust will fix all this. It'll be a big job, however, rendered more difficult since what must be removed is often functional and fairly new. <br />
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Time to go upstairs to the bedrooms on 2, plus what they call the "Grand Gallery."<br />
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The fact that no sane designer of upscale late 19th or early 20th century houses would dream of putting a shared bathroom in the middle of the second floor landing in no way detracts from the antique charm of the example below. Not quite Chippendale, Ill admit, but how great are those claw and ball feet? <br />
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A corridor leads south from the hall bath to the most important interior space in the house, the art gallery. Originally Paulding's library, Merritt removed the shelves and converted the space into a combination billiard room/art gallery. When Gould arrived he exiled the billiard table and substituted his own paintings - including one of himself - which remain on the walls today.<br />
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Concerning the 2nd floor: Endearing? Absolutely. Interesting? Exceedingly so. Well laid out? That would be a no, at least in the context of privacy and convenience. Beyond the door below, located on the south wall of the gallery, is the surprisingly small bedroom Jay Gould used between 1880, when he bought the house from the Merritts, and 1892 when he died. His daughter Helen (1868-1938), buying out her siblings after her father's death, moved into this room and continued to sleep in it for 46 years. In 1913, at the age of 45, she married Finley Shepard (1867-1942), East Coast representative of the Missouri Pacific Railroad, whose trackage was formerly a part of her father's 15% of all the railroads in the United States. They shared Jay Gould's cramped bedroom, where Shepard supposedly slept on the sofa. (That's what they tell me). Gould, unlike most Victorian paterfamilias, had encouraged his daughter to study law at New York University, an experience that must have helped during Mrs. Shepard's many years as a prominent philanthropist. Helen Shepard also had a kind heart. Having passed child bearing age by the time of her marriage, she and her husband adopted 4 children, among them a 3-year old toddler who, one dark night in 1914, had been abandoned on the steps of St Patrick's Cathedral. <br />
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The Shepards did some upgrading in 1913, including installation of new bathrooms. Among these is the one below, en suite with their bedroom. One day visitors will (hopefully) be able to see it, sans mannequins. <br />
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The image below shows the east wall of the gallery. The short flight of steps leads to the so-called East Bedroom. Perched atop the vestibule below, this was originally Mrs. Gould's room. It became the principal guestroom when her daughter Helen bought the house. In 1913, a teeny little bathroom was squashed into what presumably was a closet, situated (unfortunately) on the wrong side of the bedroom door. The little bath is now crammed with storage and too small to photograph. <br />
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Another pair of bedrooms, full of Davis- and Davis-inspired furniture, flank the corridor heading back to the main stair. These rooms would have shared the first bathroom we saw, a normal arrangement in houses where most people live, but not so normal in a mansion. <br />
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The Comptesse de Castellane, nee Anna Gould, had five children by her first husband. Divorcing him in 1906 (on grounds of infidelity), she proceeded in 1908 to marry his cousin, Helie de Talleyrant-Perigord, Duc de Sagan (1859-1937). The new Duchess of Talleyrand-Perigord then became the mother of two more children. I confess I've never imagined Anna Gould in a particularly maternal light, but....seven kids; go figure. By 1938, the deaths of her second husband, plus that of her sister Helen, not forgetting the ominous political situation in Europe, convinced Anna to abandon France where she'd spent most of her life, return to America and buy Lyndhurst from her sister's estate. The framed photo shows her arrival at the docks in New York. For the next 23 years Anna maintained Lyndhurst, visited it occasionally, but spent most of her time in a suite at the Plaza Hotel - that is, when she wasn't shopping. The images below are of the rooms at Lyndhurst that she and her sister Helen occupied as girls. After 1938, whenever Anna came up from New York, she slept in her childhood room. <br />
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Howard is showing me the lobby between Anna's room, called the North Bedroom (the door on the right) and her sister Helen's room, called the Star Bedroom (behind the camera). His hand is on the door to one of those squashed-in 1913 bathrooms. Beyond the double doors is the first bathroom we saw. Until the Goulds came along, it was the only bathroom in the house.<br />
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Anna's room is currently full of clothes.<br />
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The two doors on the north wall of the lobby lead to a boudoir on the right and Helen's room on the left.<br />
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The house narrows significantly on the 3rd floor, most of which is full of Anna's clothes. <br />
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Narrow stairs twist higher and higher until one at last reaches a tower room, beyond whose windows are views from the Tappan Zee to the Manhattan skyline. <br />
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What goes up... <br />
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There's a good deal more to Lyndhurst than simply a big old house. For example, the bowling alley, presently in the middle of a full scale restoration. There's also a Roman Pool, which I missed entirely, a scattering of picturesque cottages built for the help, and 67 acres of lawns and trees. Almost as astonishing as the house itself is the greenhouse, whose well maintained skeleton remains an impressive sight, even without the glass. Three months after Gould bought the estate, Merritt's wooden greenhouse burned to the ground. Lord & Burnham prompty erected a monumental metal framed replacement, the largest private greenhouse in the world. By the 1970s it was a wreck. The wooden portions were removed, the glass stored and the framework stabiized. One day it may be restored, but of course, one day I may get married again too. <br />
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Anna's will left Lyndhurst to the National Trust, together with an endowment for its maintenance. Alas, all those French children of hers weren't about to sit still for that. In the wake of the inevitable litigation, the Trust managed to keep the house and grounds, but the children made off with the endowment. Part of the ensuing struggle for financial survival entailed selling portions of the estate, one of which was directly in front of the main gate. A pleasant street of attractive ranch houses now stares directly into Lyndhurst's main entrance. Not the worst price, I suppose, for preserving so wonderful a place. Mansion and grounds are open to the public at different times for different fees, and if you can manage to walk there without a car, you can ramble around the grounds for free. The link is www.lyndhurst.org.<br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-27879320616873051152015-05-28T05:34:00.000-07:002015-05-28T05:34:00.019-07:00Playing Detective on North Broadway<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz2D4NSktyycSEFrDPrGUs9WfzdxttrXz9zF2EqZ6jp7WBmDczb_JVXNm3FLghEdE5bpExogn3bKZNUEmZUKoddF5cBjXDlKrewkQtwsBuYdo90nt59WiFNbMBJW6dhVY3xylEp6HrNqYe/s1600/IMG_8673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz2D4NSktyycSEFrDPrGUs9WfzdxttrXz9zF2EqZ6jp7WBmDczb_JVXNm3FLghEdE5bpExogn3bKZNUEmZUKoddF5cBjXDlKrewkQtwsBuYdo90nt59WiFNbMBJW6dhVY3xylEp6HrNqYe/s640/IMG_8673.JPG" /></a></div>The thing about hypotheses, specifically my own, is that they're usually right. On that immodest note, let me report to you on a most pleasurable afternoon I spent last week crawling around a battered old manse in North Yonkers, and figuring out precisely when, in what manner, and by whose hand it arrived at its present condition. The house is called Lenoir - pronounced "luh-NORE," not 'len-WAH," as some would have it - and for most of its history was the property of C.C. Dula (1864-1930), president of the Liggett and Myers Tobacco Company, and his descendants. Mr. Dula was born in Lenoir, North Carolina (now home to a google server farm), hence the name. It enjoys grand views of the Hudson and the Palisades - or used to, before the trees grew up - from high ground at the southern end of a 40-acre nature preserve. <br />
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The Dula estate was saved from suburbanization in 1977 when Westchester County purchased and combined it with a neighboring property immediately to the north, rechristening the whole as the Lenoir Preserve. The other mansion, called Ardenwold, burned down. Lenoir survives, untenanted at present, the property of a parks department that wants to do right by it, but has neither the funds nor the expertise to do so. An example of the latter is the excellent original approach, calculated to give visitors an aesthetic first impression. Unfortunately, you can't go this way anymore, at least not in a car. The county has made the drive one-way in the wrong direction, requiring visitors to approach the house from a secondary service entrance, passing the garage and the kitchen wing en route to the front door. I'd change that right away. <br />
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Lenoir started life in the 1860s as a prototypical Second Empire manse with all the brooding self-consciousness of the genre, a Bates Motel of the future. Note the tiny people dancing in front of it; one hopes they were children. The house was built by a fellow named Edward Martin, and subsequently sold to one Adam Norrie who christened it Montrose after his own hometown in Scotland. Norrie died in 1882, after which his heirs lingered for another 24 years before selling it in 1906 to Mr. Dula. (Frivolous Historical Note: Remember 'Hang Down Your Head, Tom Dooley,' the insufferably tuneful theme of the folk generation? The murderer in the song was actually named Tom Dula).<br />
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Caleb Conley Dula joined the world of "big tobacco" at the age of 22, rising from buyer to chief of sales for the Drummond Tobacco Corporation. In the roiling corporate waters following purchase of Drummond by James B. Dukes' American Tobacco, Dula climbed inexorably upwards, relocated to American headquarters in New York, became vice president of an American subsidiary called Continental Tobacco, and started shopping for high class real estate. You can bet he didn't buy Montrose for the house; he bought it for the view, which was second to none.<br />
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In 1907, Mr. Dula tripled the size of Lenoir, as he now called it, with wings on both ends. There is disagreement on the construction date of what is clearly a porte cochere on the southern end. To my eye, there isn't much doubt it was built in 1907, both because of what it looks like and where it is. Dula's new porte cochere is a juiced up version of the original, executed in stone, and extended from the body of the original house in order to accommodate on its second floor what one hesitates, on a house like this, to call a "sun" porch. The vehicular drive beneath it was subsequently moved, and its floor raised and connected to a piazza on the river side of the house. Then the front door behind it was retired from active duty, under circumstances we shall shortly see. <br />
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The river facade of Lenoir overlooks a broad lawn which, unfortunately, is not broad enough. Towering trees at its lower edge now obscure the amazing view. Lenoir's history and charm go a long way towards excusing the uncertain architecture of its north wing, constructed, if I am correct, at the same time as the extended porte cochere. It almost looks like a separate building, connected to the original by a hyphen which, at least in its present condition, I believe dates from 1916. I think there was a major "do-over" of the property in that year, one which also included an extension of the kitchen suite on the far left, a garage some hundred yards to the north, and a considerable reworking of the house interiors. <br />
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The image below shows the eastern facade overlooking North Broadway. Since the drive is now one-way (the wrong way), this is the first view you get of the place. I don't believe that flat-roofed kitchen extension was built in 1907; it just wouldn't have been finished that way. <br />
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Mr. Dula finessed his neighbor to the south, mining magnate William Boyce Thompson, by purchasing the Norrie property literally from under the latter's nose. The two subsequently became friends. In 1911, Dula became president of Liggett and Myers, producers of Chesterfield Cigarets (the "Diet Pepsi" to Camels' "Diet Coke"). In 1912, the society firm of Carrere and Hastings completed a sophisticated Renaissance Revival house next door for Col. Thompson, within sight of Dula's 1907 porte cochere. Also in 1912, architect Horace Trumbauer completed 1 East 78th St in New York for Dula's long time associate and personal pal James B. Duke (Doris's dad). Put these facts together and what emerges is a reasonable context that explains what happened next. Westchester Parks' well-informed curator, Gigi Carnes, tells me the City of Yonkers in 1916 issued a building permit for a two-story addition to Lenoir. I think we're looking at it in the image below. The architect, whoever he was, gave Mr. Dula a handsome Neo-Classical entrance to an old and painfully out of date house. The entrance was just the beginning. <br />
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Here's my welcoming committee - Gigi, Mindy and Dave. There is nothing 1907 about this hall, which could easily be the work Carrere and Hastings, although I have no citation to confirm that. <br />
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Gigi reliably informs me that Col. Thompson and Mr. Dula went swaps on a load of marble and an entire mahogany tree, the former to floor their respective main halls, the latter for fancy new doors. The first image below shows the main stair in Col. Thompson's Alder Manor, bruised but still extant next door, the subject of 'Big Old Houses' in July of 2012. The second shows Lenoir. <br />
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Gigi tells me the garage, also built in 1916, was designed by W.D. Blair. Could this be Walter Dabney Blair (1878-1953), a Beaux Arts trained Fellow of the American Institute of Architects, resident of Tarrytown with an office in New York, designer of office buildings in Nashville, college halls at the University of Virginia and the beautiful (if you ignore the new wing) Warner Library in Tarrytown? Blair doesn't sound like the sort of guy you'd have do your garage, and then go and hire someone else to design a new classical entrance to your house, plus a suite of luxurious interiors beyond. But...compelling as this logic may be (at least to me), I'm hypothesizing without citations. <br />
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The stair hall and the new front door are in the hyphen. A broad corridor leads south from the stair hall to a large paneled drawing room. Those double doors in the distance lead to a stone anteroom whose iron doors open onto the former porte cochere. On either side of the foreground corridor are the obligatory library (on the left) and reception room (on the right). Both rooms appear to be contemporary with the new stair hall. Let's look at the library first.<br />
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I see where that mahogany tree went, although I've never seen mahogany milled in quite this manner. Also of note in the library is a conspicuous absence of bookcases. Maybe Dula used it as a study. I don't know what to say about the chandelier, except to note those odd stalks can probably just be unscrewed.<br />
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Across the hall is the reception room. French doors open onto a piazza with views of the Hudson (at least in past times) rolling, and the Palisades rising, both majestically. The family called it the Blue Room, and it could be 1907 work. <br />
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What is surely 1907 work - or at least, it sure looks that way to me - is the great drawing room at the south end of the house. Blair's rearrangement of Lenoir's interior plan - if indeed it was Blair who did it - converted an inconvenient "living hall," of the sort much loved by architects of the 1880s and '90s, into an elegant entertainment space reached via a suitably dramatic approach. You don't want to just bungle into a room like this, straight from the out of doors. The desired impact requires a bit of theatre. By moving the front door and creating a new circulation plan, Blair achieved precisely that. <br />
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The old front door is handsome, but not in the same league as the new one. The stone anteroom that formerly comprised the sole transition from the outdoors to drawing room has become essentially vestigial.<br />
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If we retrace our steps to the north side of the entrance hall, as many a formal dinner guest once did, we'll wind up in the dining room. I'm pretty sure this room and the kitchen suite beyond it were redone at the same time as the entrance hall, library, stair, etc. Oddly, there is no fireplace in the dining room and apparently there never was. <br />
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C.C. Dula and his neighbor Col. Thompson both died in 1930. Dula was 66, the Col. 61, both younger than I am now. When Dula's granddaughter died in 1966, the Boyce Thompson Institute for Plant Research, a Yonkers institution dedicated to ending world hunger, bought the property its founder had missed back in 1906. One tumultuous decade later, the Institute despaired of troubled Yonkers and prepared to decamp to calmer precincts in the environs of upstate Cornell University. At this point Westchester County stepped in (over the objections of Yonkers Mayor Angelo Martinelli), floated a half million dollar bond issue and bought Lenoir. By the early 1980s, the Yonkers Board of Education was renting the house for $1 a year. A cooking school replaced the former kitchen suite at the expense of some probably wonderful vintage architecture. I know, I know, I'm being impractical. But look at it now. <br />
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I'm rejoining my posse for a trip to the second floor.<br />
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Who knows what the 1907 stair to 3 looked like, but I doubt it looked anything like the Parisian number below. The corridor ahead leads south to the owners suite which, frankly, is pure heaven. Mrs. Dula's bedroom, facing south and west, is vast. It connects to her husband's room on the north, the sun porch above the old porte cochere on the south, and a dressing room and bath on the east. This entire section of the second floor, occupying the envelope of the original 1860s house, looks like Blair's work to me - assuming the architect was indeed Mr. Blair. (And that's the last time I'll qualify that).<br />
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The door to her husband's room is on the north wall. Another room with bath, located across the hall, was probably a boudoir. At least, that's what I'd have used it for - assuming I was married to, or living with, someone who wanted a boudoir. We wouldn't be sleeping in separate rooms, of course. But, I digress.<br />
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Let's leave the owners' suite, save the 3rd floor for now, and have a look at family bedrooms on the north side of the main hall landing. If I'm right, that landing marks the end of the 1916 alterations. The finish in the rooms beyond looks older to me. The bathrooms match those in the rest of the house. I'd guess they were all done over at the same time.<br />
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The 1960s television set in the corner of the image below dates it to the last years of family occupancy. Mrs. Dula's daughter Purl, married to Dr. Orrin Sage Wightman, inherited Lenoir in 1939. After Dr. Wightman's death in 1966, his daughter Julia sold the house to the Thompson Institute. The furniture in the view below had probably been there since 1916.<br />
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We glimpsed this stair when we explored the kitchen, or what was left of it. It goes down to the basement and up to servants' rooms on 3. For now we're returning to that Parisian number outside the owners' suite.<br />
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I'm told the bedrooms on this 3rd floor landing were guestrooms, which makes sense plan-wise. This area is part of the original 1860s envelope. Even if you didn't notice that, the Victorian fireplaces give it away. The dropped ceilings are easily removed, but whether that'll ever happen is moot.<br />
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A curious passage, tucked behind an innocent looking door, crosses the hyphen and connects with third floor servants' quarters at the other end of the house.<br />
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We'll take the back stair to 2, then switch over to the grand stair where my posse is meeting me on 1.<br />
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Too bad smoking was bad for us, because we used to look so good doing it. A great deal of effort has gone into developing the grounds at the Lenoir Preserve, which is today a venue for nature camps, birthday parties, scout programs, festivals, hawk watches, etc., etc., plus soul soothing walks in the woods. Westchester County has done the best it could with the old house, but it's done so, figuratively speaking, with one hand tied behind its back. Finding another tenant might be good, assuming that tenant didn't ruin the interiors with destructive upgrades. I'm glad I saw it when I did, with so much important vintage fabric still intact - well, "bloodied, but unbowed" might be more apt. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV3j-MsqDsS27EDrYbDpG4-IaImr9AQUGteqLHJO9pfYuQgES41Sspw2s3lV5m9VhEJUjR0dFSfPoZ-kYyvypwOwgKNoYOjlWos9yhIFZMcsV_CflwBxR6gk5h_Cw27T_QOnKmZU4nC0XA/s1600/Chesterfield.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV3j-MsqDsS27EDrYbDpG4-IaImr9AQUGteqLHJO9pfYuQgES41Sspw2s3lV5m9VhEJUjR0dFSfPoZ-kYyvypwOwgKNoYOjlWos9yhIFZMcsV_CflwBxR6gk5h_Cw27T_QOnKmZU4nC0XA/s640/Chesterfield.jpg" /></a></div>John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-2865142466078275332015-05-21T04:58:00.001-07:002015-05-21T04:58:32.463-07:00Old Westbury Redux<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhur6cFyqxyvQWiV0XrryJ5fLqz6qHhtCZL6_rb7gc-dBKi_NbaKC7CDGRDjoA28w-EqyS0ikt4-tgcY4CekTT-N-_AtLHYQdofQ9eQfSMIBymY_RsIcF7osMWILqjnIJ9X2d_eAceg-Eas/s1600/IMG_7451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhur6cFyqxyvQWiV0XrryJ5fLqz6qHhtCZL6_rb7gc-dBKi_NbaKC7CDGRDjoA28w-EqyS0ikt4-tgcY4CekTT-N-_AtLHYQdofQ9eQfSMIBymY_RsIcF7osMWILqjnIJ9X2d_eAceg-Eas/s640/IMG_7451.JPG" /></a></div>I've been patting myself on the back for weeks now, ever since my late March posting of a series of snowy misty late winter photos (the sort nobody else takes) of Old Westbury Gardens, the former Phipps estate on Long Island. What a moody place it was that day, and what a glorious place it was last week, on one of those erratic hot days that have peppered this cold spring. <br />
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The Phipps place, called Westbury House when built in the first decade of the 20th century, is an unabashedly gorgeous mansion which speaks with the 17th century accent of Restoration England. You can read all about it, and the Phippses, in my earlier post (titled 'Westbury House'). Today I'm revisiting the snowy gardens, and rephotographing them in bloom from, as often as possible, the same angles as before. Today's trip from the main gate on Old Westbury Road to the house is a qualitatively different experience. <br />
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The south side of Westbury House, seen below, gazes across a raised lawn terrace to a half-mile long allee, reached via a pair of wistaria hung stairs. When I climbed them last March I knew they'd be fabulous in the spring, and they have outdone my expectations. <br />
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If you like old houses - and why else would you be reading this? - you should definitely make plans for a day trip.<br />
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This enormous tree was moved here in the 1920s. That's the root ball you're looking at in the vintage image.<br />
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On that snowy afternoon last March, not for any good reason, I started at the west gate to the Walled Garden. That's where we'll start now. What a difference the smiling spring has made.<br />
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Horticultural Director Maura Brush is showing me and my pal Krisztina around. Maura has a great job.<br />
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A few more winter/summer contrasts...<br />
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The great ornament of the Walled Garden is a semi-circular arcade that borders a large lily pond at the garden's southern end.<br />
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"No Visitors?" Hah! For most of my life I've dreamed of having a greenhouse - meaning one with the windows intact (I've already had the others). This appealing vintage complex is the nerve center of Maura's staff of eight year-round horticulturists - six full-time, 2 part-time - augmented annually by an average of five student interns from around the world. This year's crop comes from Poland, Korea, China, France and Germany. Interns work and live on the estate for nine months to a year, and go on to jobs in everything from landscape architecture and education, to plant research and commercial growing. <br />
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Today's Head Grower, appropriately, lives in the original gardener's cottage. <br />
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The Allee, divided in the middle by what they call the South Gate, stretches a full half mile from a lawn immediately below the house to the Jericho Turnpike. It's a different world in winter than in summer.<br />
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Among various other gardens on the property is the Rose Garden....<br />
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...and the Cottage Garden, where Phipps daughter Peggie got the "petit hameau" thatched number and her brothers, Ben, Hubert and Michel, made due with mini-log cabins.<br />
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Their parents evidently had a "No dog left behind" policy.<br />
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Unlike so many divine vintage swimming pools at formerly private estates, this one has neither been filled in nor painted black and disguised as a lily pond. Employees use it regularly (I hope I'm not speaking out of school). <br />
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What estate is complete without a Temple of Love?<br />
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The life of Jay Phipps and family - and numerous others like them back then - was a stately progression from one luxurious destination to another. In the case of the Phippses, it was springtime at Westbury House, summer in Canada or Scotland, and winters at Palm Beach. Ergo, their Long Island gardens were planted with an eye to looking best when they were around to appreciate them. Much of today's planting scheme is historic, but much has been amended to bloom in other seasons, so visitors on alternate progressions will have something to look at.<br />
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Old Westbury Gardens is one of the grandest and most intact of Long Island's surviving country estates. Drive through those gates and you actually feel as though you're deep in the country - no mean trick in this part of the world. The link is www.oldwestburygardens.org.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWIN7dHgvSLrdLow6TvyqKK3FfyB42OoIaBlm-k0nYU9VPw2QpRVWxYZqF70hsD7Jtyv7pqu0vGSsXujSFjgHuDfht2NIwnPhreTWFc-iijCY9J2rAMVMSqLPpt6Ec66Q7buna-7WDe-kc/s1600/Dita+Phipps.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWIN7dHgvSLrdLow6TvyqKK3FfyB42OoIaBlm-k0nYU9VPw2QpRVWxYZqF70hsD7Jtyv7pqu0vGSsXujSFjgHuDfht2NIwnPhreTWFc-iijCY9J2rAMVMSqLPpt6Ec66Q7buna-7WDe-kc/s640/Dita+Phipps.png" /></a></div><br />
John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-90824258902288507482015-05-13T21:15:00.002-07:002015-05-13T21:15:27.456-07:00A Whole Lot of Crazy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmCsXZPK5e8EK_VDTz4T2_4P-xEKxE750fcNvdUZg4XrxJtNqFPrVV8qj9PyLENjpUXksuJwOy_ivzLhIayj5TcGbTH4f69uGka7-DS033S2Sn7IPzOaMTVw2qVUN-WSaHlwnPzoeorbVh/s1600/+vintage+corner.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmCsXZPK5e8EK_VDTz4T2_4P-xEKxE750fcNvdUZg4XrxJtNqFPrVV8qj9PyLENjpUXksuJwOy_ivzLhIayj5TcGbTH4f69uGka7-DS033S2Sn7IPzOaMTVw2qVUN-WSaHlwnPzoeorbVh/s640/+vintage+corner.png" /></a></div>Talk about getting kicked around, here is an "old house" story that, while not exactly an indictment of any one individual, remains profoundly depressing. The image above shows the corner of Fifth Avenue and East 82nd Street in 1901. Five fancy speculative houses - 1006, 1007, 1008, 1009 Fifth Avenue and 2 East 82nd Street - have just been completed by the firm of Welch, Smith & Provot for a couple of property brothers named William and Thomas Hall. <br />
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Here's the same corner today. Even an unreconstructed Belle-Epoque-ist like myself will admit that Welch, Smith's ensemble was a little, um, busy. This is a case where the sum is less than its individual parts. The corner house at 1009 Fifth looks better alone than it did with its vanished sisters. Notable at the other end of the block is McKim, Mead & White's 998 Fifth Avenue, completed in 1912 and built with only 15 apartments, each of which contained between 5000 and almost 9000 square feet. They're up to 19 units today. Between 998 and 1009 is 1001 Fifth Avenue, completed in 1979, and the cause of today's kicking. <br />
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The image below shows 2 East 82nd shortly after completion in 1901. Socialite Albert Gould Jennings (1869-1946) owned the parcel since 1898, before Welch Smith began to build. The Jennings house isn't their work at all, but rather that of Schickel & Ditmars, another firm you've never have heard of, unless you were a rich Catholic at the beginning of the 20th century. S & D were the Archdiocese's go-to firm for a dozen churches in the New York area, the most recognizable, at least for us Manhattan-centrists, being St. Ignatius Loyola on Park and 84th. The development of East 82nd from Fifth to Madison, the Landmarks Conservancy tells us, was restricted by an 1889 covenant to "first class dwellings of brick and stone." A couple of brownstone rowhouses managed to sneak in anyway, but overall, this was (and still is) a pretty ritzy block. <br />
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So where did those Catholic architects come from? From this woman, Susie Crimmins, wife of Albert Gould Jennings and, more to the point, daughter of a prince of the Catholic laity, treasurer of St Patrick's cathedral, deep-pocket philanthropist, heavyweight contractor, real estate operator and, per Mgr. Michael Lavelle, "a type of all that is best in American citizenship, Irish blood and Catholic faith," John D. Crimmins (1844-1917). Back in 1878 Crimmins hired Schickel to design his own house at 40 East 68th Street (extant, if mutilated). He hired him again in 1898 to design 2 East 82nd as a wedding gift (4 years after the fact) for his daughter and her heathen Presbyterian husband Jennings. Crimmins insisted that five priests attend the wedding at his Darien estate, furthermore requiring Jennings to pledge that his children be raised as Catholics. Susie Jennings had the look of the period down pat - a bit spiritual, a touch exalted, somewhat "above it all" - at least, when there was a photographer present. <br />
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Like his wife, Albert Jennings was also the child of a self-made millionaire. A.G. Jennings & Sons, founded by his father Abraham Gould Jennings (1821-1904), employed 700 souls at its peak in the manufacture of lace at the family's Brooklyn plant. Young Albert went to Princeton, learned golf, join the Tuxedo Club (no easy nut in the 1890s), and became a society figure. His marriage, in spite of all those priests, didn't last. During divorce proceedings initiated in Paris in 1913, he accused his wife, to the amusement of historians since, of "accepting invitations without consulting him and altogether showing a too independent spirit." She counter-charged with assertions of "incompatibility." The court decided they were both guilty and granted a civil divorce. The church then annulled the entire experience, notwithstanding the couple's two children. <br />
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Let us now return to 1001 Fifth Avenue, seen in its totality in the image below. Developer and uber-landlord Sol Goldman bought the land beneath it in the early 1970s, the intention being to build a 25-story apartment tower on the former Hall parcel that originally wrapped around 82nd Street. Mr. Goldman succeeded in buying 1006, 1007 and 1008 Fifth, as well as 2 East 82nd Street, but Mrs. Semans on the corner at 1009 Fifth simply refused to sell. The developer ultimately gave up and sold the property to developer Peter Kalikow, but not before demolishing 1006 and 1007 Fifth and seriously antagonizing the community. <br />
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In 1977 Kalikow hired Philip Birnbaum (1907-1996), a decent guy no doubt but also a man famous for a lack of aesthetic sensibility, to design a new apartment tower. Developers loved Birnbaum because his layouts wasted nary an inch and his elevations were unburdened with expensive architectural details. Birnbaum buildings number in the hundreds in New York, a typical example being One Lincoln Plaza, seen below, built in 1971 on the corner of Broadway and 63rd Street. Of the Birnbaum opus, Donald Trump, who hired him for the layouts in Trump Tower among other things, said of his buildings, "Not all were great, but they all made money." The best most people say about Birnbaum is "banal."<br />
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Can I just say "bulls" and "red flags" to describe local reaction when locals heard the name Birnbaum? Adding to the developing furor was Mr. Kalikow's plan to demolish 2 East 82nd Street and replace it with a parking ramp for his new building at 1001 Fifth. The newly established Museum Historic District happily put an end to that. However, the community was so agitated at the prospect of a Birnbaum building that the developer agreed to hire the iconic Philip Johnson to - ready for this? - design one side of it, the side facing the museum. The ersatz superstructure atop the Johnson design was described as an homage to the mansard roof on 1009 Fifth<br />
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The usual "archo-babble" dominated descriptions of Mr. Johnson's facade, which looks to me like it was stuck onto to Mr. Birnbaum's brick box by means of giant tubes of Gorilla glue. Comments like,"Intriguing and unexpected," "a departure from modernist orthodoxy" and "tongue-in-cheek," even from sources like the august architectural critic Ada Louis Huxtable, don't change the fact that this design looks perfectly ridiculous. <br />
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Having escaped demolition for a parking ramp, 2 East 82nd in the spring of 1979 faced a new threat. There is in real estate something called FAR, which stands for Floor Area Ratio. FAR determines the total amount of floor space permissible on a given footprint of land. Mr. Kalikow's footprint included 2 East 82nd Street, which contributed to the total FAR for his new tower at 1001 Fifth. But uh, oh, that dorky new mansard was going to require additional FAR. Solution: shoo the tenants out of 2 East 82nd Street, brick the place up, and use the liberated FAR on the roof of 1001 Fifth. To be fair, connecting the blocked windows only to the phoney mansard is arguable. What isn't arguable is the fact that the windows, if not quite all of them, were indeed bricked up. Back in 1938, for $95,000, Albert Jennings and his second wife sold 2 East 82nd Street to a rooming house operator. Over the years it slowly decayed into the sort of rundown combination Class A (with private bath) and Class B (shared bath in the hall) dwelling that characterized many New York streets. None on the diminishing tenant roster in the early 1970s paid more than $250/month, due primarily to rent control. Then came the masons with the cement blocks. "It was like 'The Cask of Amontillado,'" lamented Margie Jones, one of two holdouts in a house that eventually became otherwise vacant. "My God, we're going to be bricked in!" <br />
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By 1997, Ms. Jones and her neighbor Tom Draper had been rattling around the Amontillado cask by themselves for 15 years. A great deal of the house remained in amazingly intact, if understandably shabby, condition, right down to speaking tubes, a creaky old elevator, marble sinks and original hardware. At this juncture there was a change in the rent laws which at last provided Mr. Kalikow with a means to eject those last two tenants. He told Mrs. Semans at 1009 Fifth that he intended to renovate 2 East 82nd into apartments and, hearing this, her attitude softened and she agreed to sell him some of her air rights. By May of 1999, Ms. Jones and Mr. Draper were gone, the cinderblocks were out of the windows, the Kips Bay show house was underway inside and 2 East 82nd was on the market for sale. The Marymount School, owner of three important Fifth Avenue mansions a block and a half to the north, bought 2 East 82nd in 2000 for $9.5 million. A $7 million renovation soon commenced, and was completed in 2003 to plans drawn by Samuel G. White, great-grandson of the famous Stanford. <br />
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The service entrance, down a flight of exterior stairs, allowed the main hall to extend across the width of the lot. For years the lovely detailing in this room was hidden behind the cinderblock walls of a four-foot wide corridor erected down the center of this room in order to (you guessed it) save FAR for 1001 Fifth. <br />
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Marymount's enchantment with 2 East 82nd Street stemmed in large part from the survival of so much of its original architectural fabric. The splendid interiors of their three landmark houses at Fifth and 84th have been an ongoing source of pride for the school and an inspiration to generations of its students. I am not a professional architect nor was I around to assess conditions before Sam White's alterations began. That said, if architectural preservation was the client's desire, this client can't have been very happy with the result. The rooms facing 82nd Street have been largely preserved but everything else appears to have been completely gutted. Well, this isn't quite true; much charming detail exists here and there, but it's been obscured by altered layout to the point of virtual invisibility. <br />
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The biggest problem is the stair, or rather the lack of the original stair. I am told its demolition was dictated by code requirement for two stairways. However, every house of this quality from this period would have been built with a second stair. I can't help but wonder to what extent the demolition was more a matter of the architect's intent to juxtapose old and new, than it was of code compliance. Whatever the truth, absence of the original, which by all accounts was quite magnificent, has demoted the building from a fine old mansion to just another modern school. <br />
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The rooms in the front, like this second floor drawing room, are absolutely lovely. The "juxtaposition" with the assertively new and institutional, unlike the interiors in Marymount's other houses, is less interesting than it is sad.<br />
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Marymount spent a great deal of money restoring this leaded window, but how exactly it figured in the original plan is a mystery to me. A window in this location wouldn't have been part of the original dining room. That room was located in the back of either the first or the second floor, but no trace of it remains in either place. <br />
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The library in the front on 3 is another beautifully detailed room. Two extra shelves have been added to the tops of the bookcases, a yeoman's effort with mixed aesthetic results. <br />
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What would have been an owners bedroom suite, possibly with his and her bedrooms, and/or a boudoir - certainly with a fabulous old bath - was in the back of the third floor. It's all been blown out into one big room with many charming details, if you stop to notice. <br />
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The fourth floor would have been family and/or guest bedrooms. The room in front is largely intact; in the back, some evocative detail survives here and there. <br />
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The front of the 5th floor is also largely intact. The remainder of the floor, plus a half-floor above it that would have billeted servants, are now ordinary modern construction.<br />
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Mr. White's firm of Buttrick White & Burtis designed the interior, but Richard Ciccarelli of Walter B. Melvin Architects did the exterior restoration, for which Landmarks gave him the Lucy G. Moses Preservation Award. Does it make particular sense to end this post with a photo of the Jennings family plot at Brooklyn's Green-Wood Cemetery? Probably not, but the monument is so nutty (no pun intended) I couldn't resist.<br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-33504603485130286732015-05-06T20:56:00.001-07:002015-05-06T20:56:07.119-07:00Our Reticent Upper Class<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQo79m51wYXylO70ks9qthy-znmrn8zh_U-4-vmiKbroFKR4abjHOMJ21GJw3m3HdIi100V9mPBNBpX5N0wNCG386AXaaiYpfIO_fDXE5AjJ2H9QTiNqXfDAr_dA6aPdAW-LiFiNWZbZam/s1600/IMG_8244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQo79m51wYXylO70ks9qthy-znmrn8zh_U-4-vmiKbroFKR4abjHOMJ21GJw3m3HdIi100V9mPBNBpX5N0wNCG386AXaaiYpfIO_fDXE5AjJ2H9QTiNqXfDAr_dA6aPdAW-LiFiNWZbZam/s640/IMG_8244.JPG" /></a></div>Last week I visited Montclair, New Jersey, a venerable suburb eleven miles from the Lincoln Tunnel. I'll bet you've never heard of South Mountain or Upper Mountain Avenues in Montclair, two amazing streets accurately described by a reader as "kick-ass." Who lives in 30-room "You-Name-It-Revival" palaces in Montclair with jaw dropping views of the Manhattan skyline? Not Snooki. Despite the street sign in the image below, and the villa called the Van Vleck House on the 6-acre super-block behind it, the Van Vlecks don't live here either.<br />
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At least not any more, although they did for 130 years. The railroad arrived in rural Montclair, then called West Bloomfield, in 1856. Twelve years later Joseph Van Vleck, an executive of mining and lumber titan Phelps Dodge, accompanied by his wife Amanda and (gulp) nine children, rented a summer house in the newly incorporated township of Montclair. In 1872 the Van Vlecks abandoned Brooklyn, settled permanently in Montclair, and celebrated the event with child #10, the future architect, Joseph Van Vleck Jr. Van Vleck Sr. continued to buy land (twelve acres at one point), built and moved houses (a total of five), laid out streets (he was Commissioner of Public Roads), and after a bit of local house hopping settled into the garden variety Tudor manse in the image below, located at 59 Upper Mountain Avenues, on the northwest corner of the family super-block. Mr. Van Vleck died in 1886.<br />
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Now the pages of the calendar fly by. In 1903, his son Joseph Jr. joined another thirty-something named Goldwin Goldsmith and started the architectural firm of Van Vleck & Goldsmith. 1026 and 1027 Fifth Avenue, subjects of two recent "Big Old Houses" posts, were the work of this firm. Its opus also includes the Copper Queen Hotel, built to service Phelps Dodge's famous Copper Queen mine in Bisbee, Arizona. In 1914 Van Vleck's mother died. He then demolished the house at 59 Upper Mountain, replaced it with the swollen number below, and moved in his own family in 1916. <br />
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JVV Jr. is beaming below at his two boys, Howard (l) and Joe (r), on the lawn at 59 Upper Mountain. Architecture and horticulture ran neck and neck in the Van Vleck genes. After completing the new 59 Upper Mountain, JVV Jr. abandoned his practice with Goldsmith and focused on developing his garden. His son Howard, after earning an architectural degree at Columbia, would do the same.<br />
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1916 was a busy year for JVV Jr. Besides finishing his huge new house at 59 Upper Mountain, he completed a demure limestone villa on the other side of the family property for his brother Will. The address of the new house was 21 Van Vleck Street. Its construction necessitated demolition of their sister Fanny's house, an undocumented structure that would have bollixed up 21 Van Vleck's new lawn. <br />
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Will Van Vleck died in 1919, the result of a horrible Thanksgiving Day accident. His widow stayed on for a while, but in 1938, JVV Jr's son Howard moved into 21 Van Vleck. Howard Van Vleck labored over the gardens more industriously than any of the family. In 1993 his heirs donated the entire property to something called the Montclair Foundation, a local non-profit founded in 1979 for the purpose of doing good deeds in and around Montclair. In 1996, the gardens were opened to the public. They remain so today, year 'round, free of charge. What's not so easy to see is the house, or at least the inside of it, which is why I'm here today. <br />
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The brick house in the first image below (on the other side of North Mountain Ave) was also a JVV Jr. design. Son Howard planted the slightly Jurassic looking Chinese wistaria on the south porch of 21 Van Vleck in 1939. A riot of lavender blossoms is a few weeks off. Sister Fanny's Victorian house was sacrificed for a very excellent lawn. <br />
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The Van Vleck super-block was a family compound shared at various times - and in varying combinations - by Mr. & Mrs. Van Vleck Sr., JVV Jr., his brother Will, their sister Fanny, and JVV Jr's son Howard. JVV Jr's widow occupied the "Mother's House," as they call it, until her death in the 1960s, at which point Howard pulled it down. A pair of garage/gardener's quarters whose respective styles reference the separate houses they once served, sit side by side at the southern end of the property. Interestingly, JVV Jr's half-timbered number with adjoining greenhouse, despite its more antique appearance, was built in 1923, seven years after its more contemporary looking neighbor. Both were designed by JVV Jr. <br />
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A former tennis court is now a public garden; the former lawn in front of JVV Jr's big Tudor house has become an outdoor room.<br />
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I don't want to keep Executive Director Chuck Fischer waiting, so let's take a look inside. <br />
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There is an appealing competence about this house, a low watt, upper class architectural confidence that filled a Mediterranean villa with Colonial Revival details. Except for the metal french doors, which look completely at home, the stair hall could be in 18th century Massachusetts. Ladies' and gents' are tucked discreetly under the split stair on either side of the front door.<br />
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Mamie (Mrs. Stuyvesant) Fish reportedly told Stanford White to divert the lion's share of her budget to the ballroom, because that was the most important room in her house. Van Vleck apparently felt the same about his stair hall, since the rest of his house is almost excessively restrained. When built, 21 Van Vleck spoke with the voice of "scaled down luxury," a 1916 harbinger of postwar 'Twenties taste. There is no reception room (the library probably did double duty); there are only three maids' rooms; the kitchen is on the main floor instead of in the basement; there is no separate servant hall; a central vacuum system was installed from the start; fireplaces, paneling, cornices are, in the name of simplicity and good taste, extremely plain. <br />
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The drawing room compensates for a lack of architectural brio with elegant proportions, floor to ceiling french doors and three exposures.<br />
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Let's retrace our steps to the other side of the stair hall for a look at the dining room. Simplicity and taste continue to be the order of the day, an order probably softened in other times by good rugs and family antiques. <br />
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The serving pantry is a businesslike essay in early 20th century convenience. Its terrazzo floors, mahogany counter tops and glass-doored cabinetry are augmented by the inevitable, and only slightly ghastly, circa 1960s (I'd guess) sink, dishwasher and cabinet unit in formica and stainless. Old blue bloods just love to stick these things in their old houses.<br />
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The kitchen hasn't changed much either. Chuck guesses a big refrigerator occupied the small corridor between pantry and kitchen, and I think he's right. The space is used today for storing folding chairs. A similarly huge (and probably fabulous) antique range was in the alcove on the left. The open door between it and the modern stove goes to the back stair.<br />
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A glass door on the kitchen's south wall leads to what is today Chuck's office. Judging from the quality of the floor and the garden view, I'd guess this was the family breakfast room.<br />
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Let's return to the main stair, admire a few old house details en route, and climb to 2.<br />
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There are 5 family bedrooms, 3 maids' and 6 baths on the second floor. The owner's bedroom is above the drawing room on the western side of the house. <br />
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A short corridor connects the owners' bedroom to the main hall on the second floor. Various nonprofits rent the other family bedrooms. This house has been converted to institutional use with a wonderfully light touch, so let's hope no one in the future tramples over it in the name of "improvement."<br />
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The servants' wing is compact and its three maids' rooms are head and shoulders over what servants were accustomed to back then. The tub/shower in the tiled alcove looks like 1940s work to me, perhaps a Howard Van Vleck upgrade. <br />
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There is no attic, but there is a basement, complete with vintage laundry room.<br />
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And what do you think this is? (I couldn't guess). Answer: the motor for the built-in vacuum system. Its vintage pipes and baseboard ports have been re-purposed as conduits for upgraded electric lines.<br />
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In an 1834 "Revue de Paris" serialization of "Pere Goriot," Balzac wrote that, "Behind every great fortune, there is a crime." Well, he didn't say exactly that, but what he did say amounts to the same thing. Phelps Dodge, the source of the money that built this lovely place, has been identified by the University of Massachusetts as the 23rd largest producer of air pollution in the United States. According to the Center for Public Integrity, its operations have created 13 Superfund toxic waste sites. A year after Joseph Van Vleck Jr. completed the houses at 59 Upper Mountain and 21 Van Vleck, Phelps Dodge broke a strike at the Copper Queen mine in Bisbee, Arizona with typical high handedness. At the company's request, Bisbee's sheriff deputized a 2000-man posse which proceeded to arrest 1300 striking miners at gunpoint and deport them to New Mexico. The police kept the story out of the national press by seizing local telephone and telegraph lines. That said, we remember the Van Vlecks today as cultured people whose gift to the public is a garden famous for specimen rhododendrons, magnolias, azaleas, and the most astonishing wistaria I have ever seen. It is a wonderful place to visit and open every day, free of charge. The link is www.vanvleck.org. <br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-78754308298195660322015-04-30T04:15:00.001-07:002015-05-01T06:32:34.661-07:00The One Constant in Life <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqEIf46BHtcwQ_KHyQj1pNKIqrkwGOWRyiUD6NliIBJ5phPa_2o2jcVfUwKP8OW8-v2J-s-8LiQO9PUratLeHgtxdhLKXaIZYlExozNurTLex_zFLqYyz2hafjciC6u45HQhmmNrtEMRsm/s1600/Gen'l%2Bview%2Bfrom%2Bsouth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqEIf46BHtcwQ_KHyQj1pNKIqrkwGOWRyiUD6NliIBJ5phPa_2o2jcVfUwKP8OW8-v2J-s-8LiQO9PUratLeHgtxdhLKXaIZYlExozNurTLex_zFLqYyz2hafjciC6u45HQhmmNrtEMRsm/s640/Gen'l%2Bview%2Bfrom%2Bsouth.jpg" /></a></div>This is where I live in Dutchess County, on an estate called Daheim. The early postcard view above, taken in about 1900, shows a maintenance monster of the High Victorian persuasion, still smelling of fresh lumber and new paint. The main house is part of a suite of buildings displaying innocent charm in spite of clumsy siting and an unimaginative landscape. A Swiss Chalet style bowling alley flanks the mansion on the left, a large carriage house with male servants' quarters is on the right, a tennis court with picturesque adjacent pavilion occupies a broad terraced lawn up front. Was there a distant view from the house? That would be a yes, or at least there would have been (of an artificial lake), had the view not been blocked by the fence around the tennis court.<br />
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A hundred and fifteen years later all these buildings are miraculously extant, if now selectively screened by trees. The composition of today's view is much improved. Well, to you the place might look a little blowsy, but it took 33 years to get it back to this. People are forever gazing at my house and saying things like, "This must really have been something, once," or, "Can you imagine what it used to look like?" <br />
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Here's my house on the eve of the First World War, looking as snappy as it ever would. In 1889 Daheim's builder, Charles F. Dieterich (1836-1927), a man enriched by acetylene gas and presidency of the Union Carbide Corp., joined a few like-minded friends who were developing estates around the Hudson Valley village of Millbrook. I've lived in Mr Dieterich's house for almost as long as he did, the principal difference between us being his 200 day laborers and full time house, garden and farm staff, compared to my one live-in caretaker, Bill. My Daheim is an essay in missing pieces - balustrades, awnings, window boxes, fretwork, elaborate constructions on the porch roof, etc., etc., not to mention extensive formal gardens. Like the hair on a man's head and ankles, these things just seem to get rubbed off with the passage of time. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo9-6AFlyZDLydYlaze_Pkj1sPZw0XBeoRoHJOjcBaKJemKdVr-7MoBILjYG4b08LL1CtwVFEk7naaRM_uWzglZd2aBSexVyJwE9NiyqZ1wHwVdxTNFhTiFi7eDcayu1JeFPQcZK4nBUf_/s1600/tennis+lawn+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo9-6AFlyZDLydYlaze_Pkj1sPZw0XBeoRoHJOjcBaKJemKdVr-7MoBILjYG4b08LL1CtwVFEk7naaRM_uWzglZd2aBSexVyJwE9NiyqZ1wHwVdxTNFhTiFi7eDcayu1JeFPQcZK4nBUf_/s640/tennis+lawn+3.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The statue in the middle of the fountain, as they say, "grew legs." I could do better than what's there now, I know, but so much else needs attention.<br />
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The fence around the tennis court bio-degraded many years ago and the court itself lawned over. No great loss. When the weather's dry, the court re-emerges as a neat yellow rectangle in the middle of the lawn. A sunken garden located behind - and about 15 feet below - the tennis house originally baked in unblocked sunshine from the southeast. Evergreens planted on the perimeter during the Depression have grown to Rockefeller Center Christmas tree size.<br />
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Here's the tennis house with the tennis court, but without the towering trees. Honestly? I like it better now.<br />
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The old Dieterich estate still covers over 2000 acres. Besides the mansion, carriage and tennis houses, it includes a gatehouse, farmhouse, gardener's cottage, model dairy barn (the size of a city block), pump house, underground reservoir, 500-foot glass fruit house (minus the glass), 1500-acre deer park (can you imagine? a park for rats with hooves?), a second mansion designed by Addison Mizner and 12 miles of private roads - all of which, if no longer quite in original condition, at least still exist. To provide temporary owner's quarters, architect James E. Ware (1846-1918) slapped a Queen Anne-ish tower on the west side of an existing farmhouse and wrapped the result with a porch topped on the west with a 2nd floor pergola, and on the east with a faintly Thai-looking pagoda. The temporary house was to be replaced with something grander, as soon as a slew of brooding stone, timber and stucco ancillary buildings were completed elsewhere on the property.<br />
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Apparently Mr. Dieterich became fond of the temporary house, for instead of pulling it down, he kept architect Ware busy making additions. Ware did a lot of business in Millbrook, an odd fact since his professional reputation rested on urban warehouses and tenement buildings. That said, the second incarnation of Daheim, seen below, is, to my eye, particularly satisfying. The round tower on the left, with the pseudo-Loire-ish look so beloved by American builders in the 1880s, has been balanced by a second tower on the right, full of late 1890s Colonial Revival chic (oval windows, Palladian dormer, bow front). <br />
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Too bad about that statue in the fountain. This one, however, located on a secondary drive, has managed to stay put. An old fellow appeared at my door some 25 years ago - his father had been the head gardener - and told me the statue had been a gift from Dieterich to his granddaughter. Well, maybe. Back in 2011, while researching "Old Houses in Millbrook," (published by The Millbrook Independent, and a pretty nifty book, if you can find a copy), I discovered that the statue is located at a pivotal measuring point in the Great Nine Partners Patent. What three naked putti dragging a terrified rabbit out of a bucket have to do with the Nine Partners is unclear, so maybe it was a gift and its location is just a coincidence. <br />
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On the eve of the First World War - a date I infer from the car in the second image below - a third floor was added between the towers. Simultaneously, a large steel frame, stone-clad kitchen, servants' and heating plant wing went up in the back. The new third floor is supported by I-beams hidden behind wooden boxes tricked up to look like pilasters. Without steel supports, the additional bedrooms, full tile bath, closets, hallways and large new attic - not to mention the copper roof - would undoubtedly have crushed the old farmhouse below. The result is imposing, but the design was better without it.<br />
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In 1927 Charles Dieterich died, and in 1929 his son Alfred, who had abandoned the East and an unfaithful wife for a new life in California, sold Daheim to a small private millionaires' club called the Millbrook Associates. Nine days later the stock market crashed. When the dust settled, two of the original nine Associates were left standing - Walter Teagle (1878-1962), president of Standard Oil of New Jersey (that's him below, on the cover of Time Magazine), and Garrard Winston (1882-1957) a New York corporate lawyer and Under-Secretary of the Treasury under Coolidge. For the next 30 years, these men used Daheim to shoot birds. Winston stayed in my house, Teagle in the grander Mizner mansion. <br />
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Winston called my house the White House. Seen below in the early 1930s, it has already undergone a bit of de-Victorianization. The balustrade has been removed from the porch, the Thai roof and the pergola are both gone, and so is the original fretwork between the porch columns. The evergreens haven't yet been planted between the tennis lawn and the sunken garden. Mrs. Teagle maintained the latter during this period almost to Dieterich standards. She employed 5 full time gardeners, cultivated 1600 different types of lily, and opened the garden to the public on weekends.<br />
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A fate too good to be true, you say? Boy are you right. After Teagle's death, a local investor flipped the estate to a pair of young heirs, whose sister had fallen under the spell of Harvard's charming and notorious Dr. Timothy Leary. What had started as the Harvard Psilocybin Project led first to Leary's expulsion from Harvard, then to the founding of the League for Spiritual Discovery (get it? L.S.D.?) at Daheim. An initial ivy league collegiality deteriorated at warp speed, culminating with Leary's flight from Millbrook (and future Watergate felon G. Gordon Liddy) to Oakland, California and sanctuary with the Black Panthers. Meanwhile, Daheim was abandoned to a squabbling set of self-proclaimed "gurus" who'd been left behind. <br />
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Leary borrowed the white horse from my neighbor, Milt. When Milt checked on the horse in the morning, he discovered it had been dyed pink. <br />
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By the late 1960s, the last of the hippies got the boot, the house was boarded up, and nothing happened for over ten years. Then in 1982 I came along and signed a long term lease. By the mid-1980s I had managed to get most of the exterior painted.<br />
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You can't tell from the image below, but Daheim really needs to be painted again. Would that I could put that pergola back on top of the porte cochere.<br />
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When I saw it for the first time in late 1981, Daheim was looking pretty grim. The pipes had burst, the boiler was a cobwebbed dinosaur sitting in a pit of stagnant water, the windows were boarded up and the interior crammed with storage. Oak and mahogany doors were secured by shiny padlocks whose hasps had been fixed to the woodwork with 12-penny nails . I was asked more than once why I chose to leave a Beaux Arts mansion in Tuxedo Park with 17 fireplaces, to which I replied that this was a "fluid" period in my life. <br />
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Life's crises have a way of passing, and if there's one region in which I've had consistent luck, it's where I've lived. The first image below shows Daheim today; the second was taken twenty years ago, when I had almost (but not quite) got it painted all the way around. <br />
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For a while, bowling was a fashion amongst the rich and no small number of old places, both in town and in the country, had private alleys. Mr. Dieterich's was right behind his house. It was/is a highly picturesque affair in the style of a Swiss Chalet, designed in 1896 by James E. Ware. It contains two alleys, an upstairs billiard room (replacing a less elaborate one in the main house), and below-grade pre-refrigeration era food (and perhaps ice) storage vaults. Now socked in by trees, it remains amazingly intact. (Actually, it had degenerated into the same ruinous condition as the house, but it's been restored).<br />
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When I moved to Daheim in 1982 the walled garden behind the palisade of trees in the image below was completely choked with honeysuckle bushes. Its original look had vanished. <br />
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Years of arduous clearing has converted it to a lawn whose grassed-over paths are lined with apple trees. The image below was taken from the exact spot as the vintage view above. This garden is where Mrs. Teagle raised her 1600 lilies. Designed originally as a sun cup, it is now shaded by 80-foot evergreens planted in the late 1930s along the perimeter wall.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidubcpWha6Np4H1EpceBDKiY2gImaqnDffQvEX14_gEU744jqxLhNMrWClfOcsgsS9nXxQCObKabkMOEeEPJaU5sps7-1R0jsoqEX_xIH7_FAzwt8K1AvJkcRxyw0FgbM05aqXWUXeNA35/s1600/IMG_8222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidubcpWha6Np4H1EpceBDKiY2gImaqnDffQvEX14_gEU744jqxLhNMrWClfOcsgsS9nXxQCObKabkMOEeEPJaU5sps7-1R0jsoqEX_xIH7_FAzwt8K1AvJkcRxyw0FgbM05aqXWUXeNA35/s640/IMG_8222.JPG" /></a></div><br />
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Here's another good "before and after," looking north up the spine of the garden towards the carriage house. Daheim is just out of sight on the left. <br />
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Nor were these the only greenhouses on the property. The image below shows the 500-foot fruit house located about half a mile from the main house. The glazing is gone but the stonework has been stabilized.<br />
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The original gardener's cottage might be architect Ware's most appealing design on the property. Identical shingles on walls and roof originally gave it a voluptuous look.<br />
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There've been an awful lot of changes to my porch, but the view from it is still beautiful.<br />
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The Dieterich ladies are long gone...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtqhNvoUj1bXVQhjezCa848jHnvpUQaQXHAGjq-lWPfRCzDU6pQ_oKCw8eMgaXV8uBNgzsrHSx7O4b2c3VhgefA7JDki7_OoSYAcO5J0HjR2aoxyz98DaJIiKE49qAXaObelbXERbIwGSJ/s1600/2+ladies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtqhNvoUj1bXVQhjezCa848jHnvpUQaQXHAGjq-lWPfRCzDU6pQ_oKCw8eMgaXV8uBNgzsrHSx7O4b2c3VhgefA7JDki7_OoSYAcO5J0HjR2aoxyz98DaJIiKE49qAXaObelbXERbIwGSJ/s640/2+ladies.jpg" /></a></div><br />
...and so is he....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzBQBaoa8NAJYvNVw6mpyDednOM2nVmfSdylf9GZTPsF_idW41R20Z8Wz-nPPuH6DVPWWwak6uLJQJ28IFviQ8HigFLuam63wiBfWtEVvYqd4rTxpc6wKyWRKc2nqfT4oShHXQ1ZUS_ilV/s1600/Leary.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzBQBaoa8NAJYvNVw6mpyDednOM2nVmfSdylf9GZTPsF_idW41R20Z8Wz-nPPuH6DVPWWwak6uLJQJ28IFviQ8HigFLuam63wiBfWtEVvYqd4rTxpc6wKyWRKc2nqfT4oShHXQ1ZUS_ilV/s640/Leary.jpg" /></a></div><br />
...and she is too (now married with children)...<br />
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...but I'm still here, at least for now.<br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-74829934337263116382015-04-22T20:21:00.001-07:002015-04-23T15:40:13.325-07:00And Now I Know - Part 3 of 3 - 1026 Fifth Ave.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrt-0-47ZdRhztoIU1tglQoANYTQP8xL0NtmFUU4uS7Xf4Nqadw3I7-rk-dyAGj4eJrKBpH5CfSc_0T4hFWY_czxtqTrzx45y6ESfTVTeVtV-ynriXV94g3U63y6IU6T9iqNvaSjso6Uod/s1600/IMG_7760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrt-0-47ZdRhztoIU1tglQoANYTQP8xL0NtmFUU4uS7Xf4Nqadw3I7-rk-dyAGj4eJrKBpH5CfSc_0T4hFWY_czxtqTrzx45y6ESfTVTeVtV-ynriXV94g3U63y6IU6T9iqNvaSjso6Uod/s640/IMG_7760.JPG" /></a></div>Today, I am visiting 1026 Fifth Avenue (the one on the right), the last of The Three Fifth Avenue Graces of the Marymount School. 1026 was a fancy contractor house, built on spec by the same guy (Benjamin Williams), designed by the same firm (Goldsmith and Van Vleck) and completed in the same year (1903) as the subject of last week's post, 1027 Fifth next door. There history diverges. <br />
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The vintage view below, taken in 1907, shows construction of the north wing of the Metropolitan Museum across the street from the Marymount houses. Omigod. Could Ben Williams really not have known this was going to happen? 1026 Fifth appears sandwiched between a pair of white marble mansions, the northerly being Williams' 1027 Fifth, the southerly Ogden Codman's house for Gen. Lloyd Bryce at 1025 Fifth. The museum expansion may have delayed the sale of 1026 Fifth but, as we all know in real estate, everything gets sold eventually. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA-Xsoypd9waD_kYamcKsWbDWl3UkPK3k7Y8-8ZcoDPZLjlfGtM3QrvLnVM3C62fgfqRSBAwTlrPNPuShIhMa6LjACd-uZd_sV1Jc_1LWDsjrQ28TP6QlYJPSu12eyPlawdkhvZGIDaD0d/s1600/museum+1907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA-Xsoypd9waD_kYamcKsWbDWl3UkPK3k7Y8-8ZcoDPZLjlfGtM3QrvLnVM3C62fgfqRSBAwTlrPNPuShIhMa6LjACd-uZd_sV1Jc_1LWDsjrQ28TP6QlYJPSu12eyPlawdkhvZGIDaD0d/s640/museum+1907.jpg" /></a></div><br />
In 1906, three years after its completion, 1026 was sold at last to Mr. & Mrs. William M. Kingsland, an elderly couple (he was 86; she was 78) fleeing their home of 50 years on lower Fifth Avenue. Grand houses and grand people had once surrounded them on Fifth and 17th Street, at least until the late 1880s. In the next horrible decade, their dignified neighborhood of solemn brownstones was invaded by towering lofts, snarled commercial traffic and shouting crowds. Poor Mr. Kingsland died before the move, rather like one of those ancient houseplants that will not survive repotting. His widow Mary carried on in tranquil upper Fifth (if you discount the construction across the street) for 13 more years. <br />
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Of course I recognized the name Kingsland, a family whose roots in New York and close-in New Jersey go back to the beginning of the 18th century. The most prominent - and probably the richest - was Ambrose C. Kingsland (1804-1878), sperm oil king and mayor of New York from 1851 to 1853, seen in the image below. Kingsland was the city's first elected official to urge creation of a great uptown park, a cause that culminated in Central Park. I thought at first he might be William M. Kingsland's father, although a quick comparison of pertinent dates put that notion in the toilet. Hizzoner turns out instead to have been our Mr. Kingsland's uncle. <br />
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William M. Kingsland was a name I recognized as well. Twenty-five years ago, while researching my book on the Vanderbilts ('The Vanderbilts and the Gilded Age; Architectural Aspirations 1879-1901') I met a man with the same name. Will Kingsland and I spent a very enjoyable afternoon in the main lounge of the University Club deciphering the elegant scrawls of what Will called "the people we know and love" which appeared in a guest book from the William K. Vanderbilt estate at Oakdale, Long Island. The modern day Will lived in a vast inherited coop on Fifth Avenue, so he told me, and kept a private art collection in a diminutive coop on East 72nd Street. He was short, had an underbite, a none too clean looking mustache, greasy hair, shabby clothes, thick glasses and was sprinkled with dandruff like a sugar doughnut. It was the brilliance of this man that in spite of the above he projected an air of utter aristocratic confidence. Imagine my surprise, and that of very many other people, when, upon his sudden death in 2006 at the age of 62, he turned out not to have been living in the great coop, but rather in the little apartment with the art collection. That art collection also turned out not to be his, but to have been stolen. Indeed, Will had stolen his own persona. Born Melvyn Kohn to working people in the Bronx, he had legally changed his name at the age of 17 to William Milliken Vanderbilt Kingsland, probably on the assumption that no one would bother to check. But, I digress. The house in the image below is Bel Air, the Lenox, Massachusetts summer place where Mary Kingsland, 91-year old widow of the real William M., breathed her last in 1919. She left $75,000 to her companion; $25,000 to the butler; her chauffeur got to keep the limousine she had apparently just bought; and everything else went to schools and charities. Estimates on the value of her estate kept climbing, from $7 million, to $9 million, to over $10 million. She was a veritable Michael Jackson, growing richer the longer she was dead. The cause was interesting; a penchant of the deceased to open bank accounts in fictitious names, accounts that just kept popping up.<br />
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1026 Fifth is limestone clad, has thirty-two rooms and thirty-six and a half feet of frontage on Fifth Avenue. Its elegant neighbor to the south, Codman's 1025 Fifth, was demolished in 1954 so that a new mid-block, "mid-century modern" apartment house could have an entrance and an address on Fifth Avenue. Want my opinion? They should tear down the apartment house and put the old 1025 back. <br />
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The next (and last) private residential owner of 1026 was Dunlevy Milbank (1878-1959), who bought the house from Mary Kingsland's estate in 1919. Milbank and his brother Jeremiah were grandsons of the Jeremiah Milbank who financed Gail Borden's method of condensing milk. A ground floor investment in Borden Inc., plus subsequent profits from a family held investment banking firm, made the Milbank family rich, and enabled the Milbank brothers to become famous philanthropists. Jeremiah Milbank (1887-1972) devoted millions to physical rehabilitation, a novel concept in the early 20th century. His brother Dunlevy became the chief benefactor of the Children's Aid Society, founded in 1853 by Charles Loring Brace. The Dunlevy Milbank Center in Harlem was originally his gift. These men sat on boards, directed corporations and managed family investments, but they are remembered for what they gave away.<br />
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Today you can count on the fingers of one hand the number of private houses that face the park on Fifth Avenue. The transformation from a quiet street of single family houses to a trafficked thoroughfare lined with apartment towers took time, but by 1950 the transition was virtually complete. That was the year Mr. & Mrs. Milbank bowed to the inevitable, sold 1026 to the Catholic school next door, and moved to 39 East 68th St., where Mrs. Milbank had been born in 1885. 39 East 68th most decidedly does not look like the Neo-Grec brownstone it must have been in 1876, when her father gave it to her mother as a wedding gift. Today's limestone facade looks to me like early 20th century work, but by whom and/or when, I have no idea. Marymount Junior College, which opened in 1936 at 1027 Fifth, had relocated to its own East 71st Street building by 1950. However, Marymount's lower school still needed space. Enrollment was increasing, and programs expanding. <br />
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1026 Fifth Avenue and its sister to the north at 1027 were designed for, and marketed to, prosperous people who didn't cook for themselves, had families and servants, owned good furniture and entertained with regularity. I dislike the term "lifestyle," fraught as it is with odd connotations and smug misunderstanding. That said, Mr. Williams's spec houses clearly reflect an understanding of his buyers' way of life. The main hall at 1026, looking toward the front entrance on Fifth Avenue, is seen in the image below. The door to the left of the main entrance leads to your typical ladies' dressing room with powder room attached. That's where we'll head next. The door on the right goes to a subdivided office, which was either the gents' or, more likely, a small reception room. Note the partition on the right hand side of the image below. It has created a skinny office out of a portion of the main hall and, in the process, has obscured an ornate fireplace that faced the stairs.<br />
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Here's the little office on the other side of the front door....<br />
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...and here's a closer look at that partition and the office behind it.<br />
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If I lived here, I'd use the beautifully paneled room at the back of the first floor as my study. That assumes there was a reception room up front, reception rooms being requisite for visits and interviews that didn't merit the drawing room upstairs. I'm speculating on obscure points here, and probably losing my audience, so let me briefly note the excellently preserved vintage bathroom off the study (if indeed it was a study), and move on.<br />
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There's no disputing Goldsmith and Van Vleck's knack with a staircase. <br />
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Over the years, Marymount's chapel has migrated among their three Fifth Avenue Graces. At present it overlooks the Avenue from the former 2nd floor drawing room of 1026. The white fields on the walls were undoubtedly covered originally with some kind of fancy stuff, and a fireplace, now inexplicably missing, would have been against the south wall. Otherwise, the room is mostly intact.<br />
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Like the main hall below, the second floor landing has been partitioned to create a small, slightly misshapen, sumptuously paneled office out of floor space originally intended for luxurious impact. Once again, a partition blocks the view of a fireplace intended to balance the stairs on the opposite wall.<br />
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A grand dining room, lit by an expansive north facing bay, is in a typical location at the rear of the second floor. <br />
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A door on the dining room's east wall leads to a duplexed serving pantry with dumb waiter. Back stairs connected the pantry to a vanished basement kitchen two levels down. <br />
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The third floor had the owners' bedrooms in back and a library in front overlooking Fifth Avenue.<br />
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Those mirrored niches on either side of the fireplace have shelf anchors on the lateral returns, identifying them as bookcases. The library at 1026 was combined with the library at 1027 by means of blowing out the wall between them. For a while, this double room was the school chapel. It appears to serve today as a combination auditorium and theatre. <br />
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The rest of the third floor was laid out as a pair of owner bedroom suites, typical for this sort of house. His smaller bedroom with en suite bath is in the middle; her larger bedroom with adjoining dressing room/boudoir and bath was in the back. Her room was always better, in this case by virtue of two exposures, plus the adjoining dressing room. The linoleum floor, modern lighting and removal of both the dressing room wall and the original fireplace make it difficult to recognize the luxury that was. <br />
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Floors 4 and 5 housed bedrooms divided between guests, children and servants, depending on how much there were of each. <br />
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Behind the window on the left in the avenue facing 4th floor bedroom below, lies a tale. In 1954, as wreckers demolished the house next door to build a breezeway entrance to the new apartment house called 1025 Fifth, an enormous chimney dislodged itself from the old 1025's southern party wall and crashed through the wall of 1026. A class of 5th graders ran screaming into the hallway, but no one was hurt. Quite a drama. In a classic case of lemons made into lemonade, Marymount converted the ten-foot gash in the masonry into a new window. While they were about it, they added a window to the floor above. Most of the plan on 4 is intact, with even a few surviving bathrooms. A large bedroom in the rear still has an original wardrobe closet. <br />
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Modern classrooms have replaced the warren of little maids' rooms on 5. A new steel stair leads to the rooftop gym, added in 1984, which straddles the roofs of 1026 and 1027.<br />
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Having gone up, it's time to go down. Before we step outdoors, let's take a quick look at the main floor connection between 1026 and 1027. Marymount's second purchase on Fifth Avenue (number 1027) was made in the depression year of 1936. The economics of the time forbade convenient access between 1027 and the school's original house at 1028. Staff and students were compelled to travel from one house to the other via a ladder on the roof. Today all three houses have interior connections on each floor.<br />
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This week, forty-eight years ago, Mrs. Dunlevy Milbank, nee Katherine Fowler died at 39 East 68th St., the family house she and her husband had shared for the last 9 years of his life. "Mrs. Milbank had been confined to a wheel chair in recent years because of arthritis," reported The New York Times on April 13, 1967, "but that did not interrupt her custom of visiting Europe regularly. Last year she flew to London, Copenhagen and Rome in a five-month tour." Mrs. Milbank was a philanthropist in her own right, although not on her husband's scale. She died at age 82.<br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-61388183493156187892015-04-15T21:23:00.001-07:002015-04-17T06:31:31.815-07:00I've Wondered for Years - Part 2 of 3 - 1027 Fifth Ave<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcH6Dpsnhhh1s95rD0nADpPF_IIjXo-CDksmf1zhrocxVi-sSTVby37wcQNvOG5LNqftqrn_gMCA_dk0t0vIt-NxKmA0p_Le4tmhqNCI0wlxO_WKnFU2tVxNkqMJECUhApxTqjMhtrTPq1/s1600/IMG_7760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcH6Dpsnhhh1s95rD0nADpPF_IIjXo-CDksmf1zhrocxVi-sSTVby37wcQNvOG5LNqftqrn_gMCA_dk0t0vIt-NxKmA0p_Le4tmhqNCI0wlxO_WKnFU2tVxNkqMJECUhApxTqjMhtrTPq1/s640/IMG_7760.JPG" /></a></div>Some pretty fancy houses have been rising in America of late, not just "purpose built" either, but often simply "on spec." I doubt any is as profoundly luxurious as 1027 Fifth Avenue, a white marble, Fifth Avenue forty-footer finished in 1903 by a high class speculative builder named Benjamin Williams. 1027 Fifth was marketed to the tippy top of New York's luxury real estate market, people who could have built anything they wanted, but were disinclined to bother. <br />
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Williams' architect was a firm called Van Vleck & Goldsmith, a not-very-long-lived partnership (1897 to 1913) whose opus ranged from the Copper Queen Hotel in Bisbee, Arizona, to the YMCA in Montclair, New Jersey, to 1027 Fifth Avenue. Beaux-Ats trained, McKim Mead & White alumnus Goldwin Goldsmith left his partner to teach at the University of Kansas, then at the University of Texas, ultimately becoming an icon of American architectural education. Joseph Van Vleck had a lower profile, designing his own appealing house in Montclair, New Jersey, and probably many others which, unfortunately, escaped my admittedly cursory search. <br />
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The first resident of 1027 Fifth was not the ebullient fellow below, but George C. Clark (1845-1919), principal in the private banking firm of Clark, Dodge & Co., 51 Wall Street. Mr. Clark appears to have been one of those smart, steady, "sound" men who labor diligently, earn great sums, contribute to the community (in Clark's case, as treasurer of the Brearley School, president of the American Society for the Control of Cancer, etc., etc.), belong to half a dozen good clubs and, as my father used to say, die with a tie on. The next owner was Herbert L. Pratt (1871-1945), one of the numerous sons of Standard Oil co-founder Charles Pratt (1830-1891). Our Mr. Pratt, seen below on the cover of a 1925 issue of Time Magazine, became president of Standard Oil of New York (the future Mobil) in 1923.<br />
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Mrs. Pratt, nee Florence Gibb (d. 1935) was the suffragette daughter of John Gibb, Brooklyn's grandest department store owner - or more correctly, the owner of Brooklyn's grandest department store, Frederick Loeser & Co. (defunct in 1952). An informed reader describes her husband, accurately I think, as suffering from a type of real estate related Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder. In 1902 Pratt built a grand country house called the Braes in Glen Cove, Long Island, bordering a complex of estates that belonged to his siblings. In 1908, he commissioned another palazzo on Clinton Avenue in Brooklyn, also near family members. In 1912, the Braes, though barely a decade old, was pulled down and replaced by a perfectly titanic Jacobean manse, seen in the second image below, designed by the same architect who did the first one, as well as the Clinton Avenue townhouse. Two years later Pratt abandoned the townhouse and moved to an apartment in Manhattan at 640 Park Avenue. Not for long, however, for in 1916 he relocated to another apartment at 907 Fifth. When he left that one 3 years later, his landlord couldn't find anybody who wanted something so big and was forced to subdivide. Upon Mr. Clark's death in 1919 Pratt bought 1027 Fifth, and stayed there until his wife's death in 1935. <br />
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The longest held of Herbert Pratt's many houses - not forgetting his Good Hope Plantation in South Carolina or Pine Tree Point in the Adirondacks - was the Braes, that apotheosis of the Long Island country place, where he died in 1945 at the age of 73. Since 1947 it's been a naval architectural school called the Webb Institute.<br />
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Back in 1935, the death of Pratt's wife, in combination with his own residential wanderlust, presented Marymount with an opportunity they couldn't refuse. True, Depression era prices, even on Fifth Avenue, were somewhere south of Uruguay, but Depression era economics also made 1935-36 Marymount's worst fiscal year since founding. In an act of faith, confidence and economic daring they bought the Pratt house anyway, the purpose being to open a Junior College to supplement the 4-year college in Tarrytown and the grade school at 1028 Fifth. "Shoestring" is a good adjective to describe initial conversion efforts, like the daunting prospect of bashing through party walls to connect 1027 to 1028. This was postponed by placing a ladder between the two roofs so that students and staff could crawl across. The Junior College of 1936 eventually became Marymount Manhattan College, now located on East 71st Street off Third Avenue.<br />
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A broad marble hall leads from your basic iron-doored entry anteroom to a central marble stairhall. Although the workmanship is A+, bear in mind these finishes aren't custom work. 1027 Fifth Avenue was a builder's gamble on how much he could spend and still make a profit. Aesthetically, the house is a marble-clad echo, inside and out, of the Chicago World's Columbian Eposition of ten years previous. The reception room, located immediately to the left of the street entrance, is usually a less formal, more intimate space. However, the front room in a 40-foot wide house with a side entrance has got to be almost 30 by 30 feet, not what you'd call intimate.<br />
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Judging from the "Father Knows Best" furniture, the crucifix on the wall and the absence of paintings, I'd guess the vintage view below was taken shortly after Marymount moved in.<br />
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The great ornament of the central hall - indeed of the entire house - is the sumptuous main stair.<br />
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Recent design projects at 1027 Fifth have been the work of Stanford White's great-grandson, Sam White. Among these is a new meeting room in the rear portion of the first floor. I suspect a breakfast room was originally configured in this space. An adjacent dumbwaiter is currently preserved on the site of what I'd guess was a small serving pantry. <br />
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As I say, the great ornament of the house is the main stair.<br />
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The first flight leads to another broad central hall on 2, with dining room in the rear and drawing room in the front overlooking the Avenue. Many years ago, I lived in Tuxedo Park in a house with a phone room which, ever since, has been my personal measure of a high class house. <br />
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The door to the dining room is at the rear of the second floor hall, next to a small winter garden. That's Mother Butler, Marymount's founder, over the fireplace. The swing door to a skinny serving pantry, originally connected by dumbwaiter to a vanished basement kitchen, is behind bookcases at the far end of the room.<br />
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Let's peek at the back stair, return to the dining room, then continue to the landing. <br />
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The drawing room overlooking the Avenue has been divided in two, though not irrevocably.<br />
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There is an elevator - the door was stuck; we couldn't see it - but why ride when you can walk up something so lovely.<br />
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I assume an owners' suite, with his and her beds and baths, was at the back of the landing on 3, and a library overlooking the Avenue was in the front. There's a missing wall in the larger of the two bedrooms (probably hers) and one of the en suite bathrooms has been, um, disrespected, but the original plan is basically intact. <br />
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Of the library in front, not a trace remains. The space has been combined with the library on the 3rd floor of 1026 Fifth Avenue, the third of the Marymount mansions, about which more next week. The two former libraries are now the school auditorium with a stage at the 1027 end.<br />
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Children and guests were on 4, their original bedrooms converted to classroom use. A few old baths survive in various states of deconstruction. <br />
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The servants' rooms on 5 have been combined into classrooms, plus a new science lab.<br />
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A steel stair leads to a gym, completed in 1984 on the roofs of 1027 and 1026 Fifth Avenue. It is happily invisible from the street.<br />
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It's time for my traditional walk downstairs, accompanied by a few "deep thoughts from John." I am not - well, more correctly, am no longer - a religious fellow, but I am often struck by the commitment of religious people to improve the human condition. Mother Butler founded 14 schools for woman, in an era when women's education was considered unimportant, if not suspect. My own daughter's fine education has enabled her to enjoy a life of far reaching possibilities, while girls in other parts of the world have acid thrown in their faces, are kidnapped, or have their schools blown up. Marymount is a K through 12, Catholic day school that "seeks to educate young women who continue to question, risk and grow - young women who care, serve and lead - young women prepared to challenge, shape and change the world." Ambitious, perhaps, but so was Mother Butler. The link is www.marymountnyc.org <br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-16293709111370782392015-04-08T20:51:00.001-07:002015-04-08T20:51:11.251-07:00I've Wondered for Years - Part 1 of 3 - 1028 Fifth Ave<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGJXGNunHPGT4EvNDAxQXHvWTwSIugUt2EyKce07f59GC7z344KWNEDvHHlQW8HoH05EdQwfFhOQWQonjJmS7goHKpQVZibyeC7ztGM-LlVpnyQqpVWPyqdYNDX-chVtDbDO7HhQF-N_N5/s1600/IMG_7760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGJXGNunHPGT4EvNDAxQXHvWTwSIugUt2EyKce07f59GC7z344KWNEDvHHlQW8HoH05EdQwfFhOQWQonjJmS7goHKpQVZibyeC7ztGM-LlVpnyQqpVWPyqdYNDX-chVtDbDO7HhQF-N_N5/s640/IMG_7760.JPG" /></a></div>Many readers will immediately recognize the three noble houses on the corner of Fifth Avenue and East 84th St. across the street from New York's Metropolitan Museum. I have admired them for decades (well, generations more accurately); friends' children (not mine) have gone to school there; I seethe with curiosity (OK, an overstatement) every time I see them. I'm about to climb over every inch of each. My bucket list (to fracture a metaphor) runneth over. <br />
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All three houses have belonged to the Marymount School, a Catholic day school for girls, since 1925, 1936 and 1950 respectively. The school's maiden voyage began in February of 1926 at 1028 Fifth, the subject of today's post and the house in the grainy but atmospheric photo below. All three buildings went up simultaneously, between 1901 and 1903. However, numbers 1027 and 1026 were fancy spec houses built by a developer, while 1028 was purpose built for Jonathan Thorne Jr. (1843-1920) and designed by one of New York's most glamorous - and surely most prolific - late Gilded Age architects, C.P.H. (Charles Pierrepont Henry) Gilbert (1861-1952). <br />
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Here is Thorndale, the Thorne family's Dutchess County seat, located in my home town of Millbrook. Discovering that Jonathan Thorne owned 1028 Fifth was like running into an old friend. The Thorne family has been in Millbrook, or what eventually became Millbrook, since the early 18th century. Mr. Thorne's father became rich as a trader and manufacturer of leather, due largely to Civil War demand for belts, harnesses and holsters. The family fortune grew much larger from banking and an obscure but highly profitable branch of commercial publishing. A succession of Oakleigh Thornes has inhabited the big house at Thorndale for over a century and a half. <br />
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Jonathan Thorne Jr. and wife Harriet van Schoonhoven, are seen below as tourists in China, he on a pony, she in a sedan chair. Perhaps a honeymoon candid? <br />
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They look equally at home visiting nephew Oakleigh at Thorndale.<br />
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Beaux Arts trained C.P.H. (not to be confused with fellow architect 'Cass') Gilbert designed over a hundred private mansions in New York, many in the Chateau-esque style of 660 Fifth Avenue, Richard Morris Hunt's famous 1883 house for William and Alva Vanderbilt. Morton Plant's house (now Cartier) was a Gilbert design, as was Felix Warburg's (today's Jewish Museum), Otto Kahn's (now Convent of the Sacred Heart School), the Fletcher-Sinclair house (Ukrainian Institute), and many, many (many) more... <br />
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...not forgetting 1028 Fifth Avenue for Jonathan Thorne Jr....<br />
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...but not Mr. & Mrs. Thorne's country house, called Schoonhoven, at Black Rock, Connecticut.<br />
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After Mr Thorne's death in 1920, a society widow named Florence Adele Burden (1881-1969), often incorrectly identified as Florence Vanderbilt Burden, bought the house and moved in, albeit for less than five years, with two small boys. Mrs. Burden's mother was indeed a Vanderbilt, but Mrs. Burden's maiden name was Twombly. The Twomblys were very grand people in their day, but if suggesting social cachet is the goal, "Vanderbilt" summons more vivid images than "Twombly." <br />
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Mrs. Burden's husband, Willam Armistead Moale Burden (1878-1909), was one of the iron-and-steel manufacturing Burdens of Troy, New York. Rich, social, athletic, good looking, president of Harvard's Class of 1900, captain of the Varsity Football team, he was felled in 1907 by a mysterious and never diagnosed illness that killed him two years later. He was only 31. <br />
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If you thought Thorndale looked good, this was Florham, where Mrs. Burden grew up with her parents and three siblings (only one survived) outside Morristown, New Jersey. It's now a part of Fairleigh Dickinson University.<br />
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And here is Mrs. Burden's mother, Florence Adele Vanderbilt Twombly (1854-1952), the glacial grande dame of New York Society who married her father's financial advisor, Hamilton McKown Twombly (1849-1910) in 1877. Mrs. Twombly lived quite literally like a queen, Florham being only one of several mighty houses, until she died at the age of 98.<br />
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Mrs. Burden and her boys didn't stay at 1028 for long. On New Year's Eve, 1925, per an article in The New York Times, "Burden Home to be a School for Girls: Residence at 5th Avenue and 84th Street Bought by Order of the Sacred Heart of Mary;...Students to Get Religious Training as Safeguard Against 'Socialism and Chaos.'" That headline reflects the writer's bias more than Mother Marie Joseph Butler's (1860-1940) goals. Initial financial support from an immigrant supermarket king, open-handed Catholic donor and first cousin named James Butler may have started Mother Butler's career, but grit and determination ultimately enabled her to found fourteen schools for women, three of which were college level, before she died at the age of 80. Nor were these schools purely religious or vocational. From the start, courses in political science and law were part of a curriculum designed to prepare women for lives as active citizens. Mother Butler's first school was Marymount College in Tarrytown, New York, founded in 1907. By the 1920s alumnae were already asking for a lower school for their own children. Result: Marymount at 1028 Fifth.<br />
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"The world has never needed women's intelligence and sympathy more than it does today." Mother Butler.<br />
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1028 Fifth is a grand old lady disguised as a schoolgirl. First impressions aside, the great majority of original architectural fabric is remarkably - sometimes amazingly - intact, despite ninety years of intensive use by school children. Marymount's Director of Development, Cathy Callender, is showing me EVERYTHING.<br />
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Despite fire-rated doors to the library overlooking Fifth Avenue, the competent graciousness of Gilbert's interior finishes is undiminished. The library probably wasn't much changed by 1929, when the vintage view below was taken - even though that wallpaper looks fishy to me. I wonder if Mrs. Burden left the chair in front of the fireplace? Despite white boards over the bookshelves, fluorescent lights hanging from the ceiling and wall-mounted A/C units, the library is basically unchanged.<br />
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At the other end of the entrance hall is a reception room. A door on its east wall leads to service areas, a back stair and the service entrance on 84th Street. I love finding unexpected old house archaeology like this still in situ.<br />
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I didn't hold much hope that the old kitchen had survived, and indeed it hadn't.<br />
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The grand furniture may be gone but the approach to the piano nobile on 2 is as dignified as ever, right down to original sconces and chandeliers.<br />
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The big drawing room on Fifth wears a similarly light disguise.<br />
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The dining room is at the other end of the second floor landing. While predictably more sumptuous than my own at Daheim, our tapestry wall coverings are virtually identical. All week I've felt, if not quite, then almost, among the elect of the world. In this dining room, a month after purchase, Bishop John Dunn, with Mother Butler at his side, officially dedicated 1028 Fifth as the Marymount School. The recently restored winter garden off the dining room no longer leaks, as Cathy is pleased to confirm. <br />
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The serving pantry, back stair area and dumbwaiter to the kitchen (well, at least the shaft and doors) are thrillingly intact.<br />
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After a quick look at the ornate fireplace on the second floor landing, let's head up to family bedrooms on 3.<br />
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The owner's bedroom suite in a house facing Fifth Avenue would normally be on the park end of the 3rd floor, and I assume that was the case here. Such was my relief at seeing so much that had survived, that I didn't immediately notice that all the old bathrooms were gone.<br />
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Spring Break was the school's opportunity to paint, fix and install new bathrooms, none of which has significantly altered the original look and layout. <br />
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There are more bedrooms on 4, designed originally for family and guests. Their architectural personality, in stark contrast to the boring modern boxes characterizing most schools, is loved and appreciated by both students and staff.<br />
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Servants' rooms were on 5, which we knew immediately because of the wooden balusters on the stair rail. Small individual maids' cubicles were long ago combined into classrooms. A 6th floor penthouse level, built for storage, serves the same purpose today.<br />
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Cathy took the elevator down; I walked.<br />
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Jonathan Thorne is sitting in the sun by the front door at Thorndale, like an elegant old turtle. It's a cliche to say how happy he'd be knowing his house had been so loved and put to such good use by so many people, but it's probably true.<br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-3216102012865998492015-04-01T21:05:00.001-07:002015-04-01T21:05:50.203-07:00French Cosmetics and Lutheran Charity<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfLIPjpgjkqZn_rbT142nsyQK68GLWH-MMRn0pqa3sqgcWTsZFFCz_pzCLy3K8TWwXhCWHxn2xexa0JlALqpWEuzPD48zXMz4J5jxkapkbFsZf6ecpUgOkSTB5FbZCqljQN0PEu_nC4nOg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-03-22+at+11.31.21+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfLIPjpgjkqZn_rbT142nsyQK68GLWH-MMRn0pqa3sqgcWTsZFFCz_pzCLy3K8TWwXhCWHxn2xexa0JlALqpWEuzPD48zXMz4J5jxkapkbFsZf6ecpUgOkSTB5FbZCqljQN0PEu_nC4nOg/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-03-22+at+11.31.21+AM.png" /></a></div>Chances are slim to negligible that you've heard of Harriet Hubbard Ayer (1849-1903), a woman who had nothing at all to do with Harriet Hubbard Ayer Inc., once the world's largest purveyor of ladies' perfumes. Hers is a story full of irony, double-cross and a good deal of venality. Its final symbol is a titanic stone mansion on the North Shore of Long Island, dedicated for the last 66 years to teaching the deaf.<br />
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According to a 1901 edition of "Who's Who in America," Mrs. Ayer was, "Born and reared in luxury, married at 16 to a man of large wealth; society leader; extensive traveler; linguist; woman of fashion. In 1883 her husband failed for over $2,000,000. She voluntarily gave up her home and all her belongings for the benefit of her husband's creditors, and went into trade; established mfg. business; cleared $200,000 in 4 years." Why is it that people of such exemplary character attract the meanest no-goods and skunkiest connivers in this world? Shortly after divorcing deadbeat Herbert Ayer, and comfortably situated in her own thriving NYC antique shop, Mrs. Ayer met "Arizona Jim" Seymour who, in 1886, lent her $50,000 to go into the cosmetics business. The result was Recamier, Toilet Preparations for the Complexion, whose fabulously successful Luxuria Cream, reputedly based on secret formulae from pre-revolutionary France, was not to be confused with paint, as makeup then was still considered. Recamier prospered, grew, opened shops and factories in New York and Europe, until 1893 when Mrs. Ayer was involuntarily committed to an insane asylum by Seymour, her former husband and her own daughter Hattie. She escaped on a technicality, embarking afterwards on a successful lecture tour entitled "Fourteen Months in a Madhouse." Alas, by 1896, Recamier had fallen victim to her tarnished image and went bankrupt. Indomitable as ever, Mrs. Ayer reinvented herself in 1900 as women's pages editor at Joseph Pulitzer's New York World, wrote a 1902 best seller titled "Harriet Hubbard Ayer's Book of Health and Beauty," and died in 1903. She was 54 years old. <br />
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Her name, however, lived on. A sometime singer and actress named Lillian Sefton, friend of Ayer's other daughter Margaret, heard the whole gruesome story, which convinced her, interestingly, that cosmetics were the plastics of the future. In 1905, Miss Sefton married an entrepreneur named Vincent Thomas who, at her urging, bought the rights to Harriet Hubbard Ayer's name. In 1907 the two of them used it to found their own firm. Thomas died in 1918, after which his wife built the company into one of the largest cosmetic firms in the world. In 1938 she was the highest paid female executive in America. Harriet Hubbard Ayer Inc. marketed 27 different perfumes (Mes Fleurs, Prince Charming, Brin d'Amour, Golden Note, Darling, etc., etc.), products that skin-care-only Harriet Ayer herself never would have dreamed of selling.<br />
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A new husband and a big house would seem the obligatory next steps for the widow Thomas, and indeed they were. The husband was an artist named Robert Leftwich Dodge (d. 1940), whose works are supposed to be found at Vassar College and on the walls of the Library of Congress in Washington. In point of fact, I was unable find a single citation of Dodge's work at either of those places. A famous muralist named William de Leftwich Dodge did contribute to the Library's decoration, and he did have a brother named Robert, but that brother's full name was Robert E. Lee Dodge. None of this throws much light on the man who, at least in the photo below, looks a lot like that Gestapo man whose face gets melted when storm troopers pry open the Ark of the Covenant. What is known for certain, is that he worked for his wife's company as artistic director. <br />
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Now then, to the house: In 1922 the Dodges bought an 86-acre parcel outside Oyster Bay, Long Island from a Brooklyn developer named Harvey Murdock. In 1923 they hired architect James Hollis Welles (1864-1926), English-born president of Clinton & Russell, a New York firm known for apartment buildings and office towers, to design the house. A slightly odd choice, if you ask me. Manhattan is full of Clinton & Russell buildings, including Edwardian era icons like the Apthorp on Broadway, Graham Court in Harlem and the Langham on Central Park West. By the 1920s, the founding partners now dead, the firm became specialists in modern skyscrapers like the Cities Service Building at 60 Wall Street, and big accommodation facilities like the Mecca Masonic Temple (now the New York City Center) on West 55th St. So how did Welles land a mansion job on Long Island? Good question. <br />
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Sefton Manor was finished in 1925 and sold to the Lutheran School for the Deaf in 1949. That's 24 years as a private house versus 66 years as a school. All things considered, the house is in a remarkable state of preservation.<br />
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Of course, much that was, is no more. The sunken garden, designed in 1927 by local landscape architect Charles Leavitt, still exists, but its sophisticated sundial design (don't ask me how that worked) is gone, together with the rills, jets and the 16th century fountain that gave it that look of high maintenance Long Island luxe. <br />
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Mrs. Peter J. Denker, Mrs. Dodge's daughter, is seen on her wedding day, contemplating Long Island from one of her mother's garden temples.<br />
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The expansive terrace on the north, with its distant views of the Long Island Sound, invites contemplation too. Sefton Manor is an interesting house for a number of reasons, among them the name. I wonder if I could get away with calling my house Foreman Manor? (Probably not). There is a fine line between imposing and somber and Welle's design is trampling all over it. There are legitimate English antecedents for the look of this house, specifically St. Catherine's Court, a sprawling late 16th century pile near Bath, England that must be cold inside in the middle of August. Certain rich Americans, among them cosmetics czarinas of the 1920s, seem to have been comforted by a look of ponderous establishment. <br />
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Now we're looking at the south or entry facade of the house, the sunken garden is to our backs. The Lutherans deserve credit for many things, among them a decision not to tack a dreadful modern addition onto a fine old mansion. In lieu of that addition, however, in the late 1960s they built a large and architecturally unsympathetic education building just out of sight on the left. Too close for comfort to my mind, but given all the right things they've done, I'll cut them some slack. The service wing is seen below on the left; that trio of windows on the lower left is in the laundry room. Save for the regrettable, if economically motivated, removal of vines and shrubs, not much has changed since the house was photographed for a sale brochure in the late 1940s. <br />
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Mill Neck Manor School for the Deaf's Advancement Director, Nancy Leghart, was the perfect hostess. She unlocked all the doors, turned on all the lights, and left! (Thank you, Nancy). <br />
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It's a comfortable house with a straightforward plan but, layout-wise, features no bells or whistles. It's obviously suited for large scale entertaining and luxurious house parties straight from the pages of F. Scott Fitzgerald. However, there is neither reception room for informal visiting, nor library for beloved - or even attractively bound - books. I guess if the local gentry isn't in the habit of dropping in, and you're not much of a reader, why pretend? Mrs. Dodge's desk was in her bedroom, and if her husband had a den or a study of his own, I don't know where it was. No room on the plans is designated as such. <br />
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Off a sumptuously paneled vestibule is a single coat and powder room (no separate gents' and ladies' here) and a short stair up to the Great Hall. Back in the 1880s, the newly fashionable "living hall," an architectural conceit that summoned romanticized images of medieval lords and ladies, actually was used for living. <br />
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Living halls soon mutated into "Great Halls," particularly in the houses of great people. They remind me of presentation feasts at czarist balls, where cornucopias of exotic dishes were dumped in the garbage as soon as arriving guests had seen them, then replaced with a entirely new feast for the guests to actually eat. My metaphor might have a few leaks, but I've seen an awful lot of Great Halls in recent years which, while attractive, clearly served no conceivable purpose other than to impress visitors standing around with drinks or simply passing through. <br />
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Sefton Manor was designed for rich arrivistes whose careers spoke to what we might call the kick-ass zeitgeist of the 1920s. These people were showy, rather than cultured, which is fine with me. My sense is that Lillian gave the architect Welles his marching orders, and he gave her a house which, despite its Tudor veneer, is very much a product of the Jazz Age. The Great Hall is a residential version of the lobby in a Thomas Lamb movie palace. How could it not be gorgeous? <br />
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The living room immediately east of the Great Hall had that polished flagstone floor from the start. I love the view in the sale brochure. How about that rug? or the firescreen? or the fringed lampshades and the carved tables? But not the chandeliers. They are advanced troops from a showhouse decorator. "Signs of Spring" is scheduled to open here in early May.<br />
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At the other end of the Great Hall is the dining room. The first students at the Mill Neck Manor School slept, studied, went to church and attended classes all in this house. They ate meals in this room; the early staff worked in offices and slept in rooms of their own upstairs. For a while, the gardens were maintained as they had been in the past, laborers paid with proceeds from the sale of flowers raised in the estate greenhouses. Pity that didn't last. Since 2001, Sefton Manor has been vacant, used by four designer showcases so far, and rented regularly as an event venue. Classrooms and dorms are now located in a crescent of modern buildings stretching from the old stable to the educational building.<br />
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I was struck repeatedly by the period charm of the chandeliers and wall sconces - so very 1920s. Here's the breakfast room, and how cool is that chandelier?<br />
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A paneled corridor connects front vestibule and adjacent public rooms with the servants' wing on the west. Off this corridor, just beyond the breakfast room, is a delicious tiled flower room.<br />
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The Lutherans have been commendable stewards who've kept the house in brilliant condition. That said, the pantry and kitchen have unfortunately been left to the devices of showcase designers. I know, I know; it's not a house museum, but I can't help missing what used to be.<br />
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Time for a look upstairs. The stained glass windows on the first landing, installed in 1927, represent five Shakespearian plays. Mr. Dodge was reputedly a great lover of Shakespeare, which is as good an explanation as any. I don't want to be unfair to Mr. Dodge, but the literature on Sefton Manor is infused with a sort of unchallenged reverence to his memory, as if he were some sort of great artist. He was an art director married to a rich woman. Nothing wrong with that, but he was not Bernard Berenson. <br />
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Notable on the second floor is the enormous master bedroom, which was also Mrs. Dodge's office. Her desk was in the southern alcove, with excellent views of the garden. I don't know if the Dodges shared a bedroom, but probably they didn't. In which case, the room at the top of the stairs likely as not was his. The two rooms are connected, or at least his is connected to a small anteroom outside her door. On the subject of bathrooms, showhouse decorators, or maybe zealous Lutherans, have had their way with almost all of the originals.<br />
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A long hall leads to the five other bedrooms. Yes, there is an elevator, and it was the only door that was locked.<br />
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The bedrooms testify, in varying degrees, to the past presence of interior decorators.<br />
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There are wonderful details throughout, including a few surviving bathroom fixtures. Most are gone, alas, replaced by some pretty zany decorator stuff.<br />
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Even the servants' wing has been decorated. Look, I know these old houses need decorator showcases. They're good for the decorators and raise a lot of money for the owners. Sefton Manor wouldn't otherwise be nearly so clean and watertight. But that doesn't mean I have to like them. <br />
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Let's have a look at 3.<br />
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On the family side of the building are 4 more bedrooms, a secretary's office and a billiard room. Not that there's much furniture in Sefton Manor these days, but what there is has been stored in the billiard room to make way for the decorator showcase. Maybe the altitude up here discouraged defacement of fine old bathrooms. Some good stuff survives. As for the half dozen maids' rooms on 3, the school years ago blew them out and replaced them with a large open space.<br />
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We could take the back stairs down, but nah, let's go down the main one. And while we're about it, let's take a quick look at the basement.<br />
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The Lutherans visited fifty - that's right, fifty - intact and unwanted country estates before settling on Sefton Manor. Sounds like fun, as you can see below. What got them started? According to "Planted in Faith...Nurtured in Hope...Grown in Love...Mill Neck at the Millennium," published by the Mill Neck Foundation in 2001, church members, "wanted to recognize what God had done in a special way." On election eve, 1944, Rev. Floyd Possehl, missionary-at-large to the Deaf in New York, listened to election results with a group of fellow Lutherans. "We didn't like the way it turned out; so we said, 'We should make this night memorable in another way.'...(W)e tossed around ideas and said 'Let's start a Deaf school on the East Coast.'" They bought the Dodge house in '49 for $216,000, opened the school in '51 with 19 students, today serve 128 enrollees from Pre-Kindergarten through 12, and have contributed a lot of help and joy to the world. <br />
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Lillian Sefton Dodge sold her company to Lever Brothers in 1947 for $5.5 million. She died in New York in 1960 but the company, despite changing hands several times, still exists. Limited tours of what the Lutherans now call Mill Neck Manor can be arranged by reservation. The link is www.millneck.org. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZwtPxf9XS8nRt4yDsnmQedVKnMs74Bmfc4QXHzqcfPNemtDAcsZ6Lf9EqNSjKwyxqWYI5_hVuEJyFFGezquwk_ssYla7kIelBQRsL882OFQ9YQ1ddmOSBgn6u5DpWKwkXYovc3r4Dzm3/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-03-25+at+8.45.39+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZwtPxf9XS8nRt4yDsnmQedVKnMs74Bmfc4QXHzqcfPNemtDAcsZ6Lf9EqNSjKwyxqWYI5_hVuEJyFFGezquwk_ssYla7kIelBQRsL882OFQ9YQ1ddmOSBgn6u5DpWKwkXYovc3r4Dzm3/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-03-25+at+8.45.39+AM.png" /></a></div>John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-88042887450918034322015-03-25T20:45:00.002-07:002015-03-25T20:45:21.399-07:00Westbury House<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh533RNjvMYJln2hty8FTI818pEEuhBbTYAsCgOf79s6sUSss8s2B-q6kXqhgNnkA8H3twLDCg96sWVqbfcPbel-MuO9FNhMfnynhFydkZB3ff2MgW8wadNBsQBVkKBkim6qx26gARlpuON/s1600/IMG_7451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh533RNjvMYJln2hty8FTI818pEEuhBbTYAsCgOf79s6sUSss8s2B-q6kXqhgNnkA8H3twLDCg96sWVqbfcPbel-MuO9FNhMfnynhFydkZB3ff2MgW8wadNBsQBVkKBkim6qx26gARlpuON/s640/IMG_7451.JPG" /></a></div>There's a great temptation to wallow in superlatives when describing Westbury House, the perfectly exquisite (there I go) Long Island country place completed in 1906 for John ('Jay') Shaffer Phipps (1874-1958) and his wife, the former Margarita ('Dita') Grace (1876-1957). The mists and melting snow on the day of my visit lent an appealing air of otherworldliness to a scholarly mansion and elaborate gardens usually photographed in the blazing sun. <br />
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The main gate to Old Westbury Gardens, as the place is called today, originally graced some swell 18th century estate in the English countryside. It is now the ceremonial entrance to the bit-under-200 remaining acres (about 400 in the mid-1930s) of an estate famous for extravagant gardens, temples and pergolas, small romantic lakes and a half-mile long Grand Allee on axis with the mansion itself. These gardens - Walled, Pinetum, Rose, Ghost, Lilac, Primrose, Cottage, Answer, not forgetting the Bluebell Walk - are not just heart-stoppingly beautiful in the soft heat of a Long Island June, but captivating in quite a different way, cloaked in end of winter mists. <br />
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The gate in the image below bisects the aforementioned allee. The house lies directly north, hidden in the mist.<br />
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In 1911, society architect Horace Trumbauer (1868-1938) added a large service wing, seen below, extending east from the original house.<br />
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Westbury House, including its superb gardens, was designed by a socially well connected British aesthete, artist and tastemaker named George Crawley (1864-1926). In 1903, young Jay Phipps, recently married to British shipping heiress Dita Grace, visited his father, Carnegie partner Henry Phipps, at a rented Scottish castle. One assumes they were shooting. Among the party was Mr. Crawley, whom Phipps the elder had recently hired to tweak designs for his new Fifth Avenue house. Crawley and Jay apparently got on like the proverbial house afire, and before you could say "Homestead strike," Crawley agreed to design Jay & Dita's new country place on Long Island. Westbury House is described as being "in the manner" of Charles II, that high living British monarch who, upon the death of sober-sided Oliver Cromwell, gave 17th century England a needed dose of Restoration glamour.<br />
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You wanna talk glamour? Here's Jay Phipps astride one of his polo ponies, probably at Westbury, looking every inch the Long Island gentleman. When not playing polo, racing horses or shooting at his Plains, Virginia plantation, Phipps was a lawyer, businessman and director of U.S. Steel, Hanover Bank and W.R. Grace & Co. <br />
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Dita Phipps was the daughter of Michael Grace, co-founder with brothers Russel and William, of W.R. Grace & Co., arguably the world's foremost oceangoing passenger and freight line. In 1854 the Grace boys, then still in their twenties, made a killing shipping guano from Peru to North America. By the time Dita married Jay Phipps in 1903, the Graces had become one of the richest families in the world. Uncle William was a two-time mayor of New York, the first Roman Catholic to win that post, and the man who accepted the Statue of Liberty from France. His niece Dita is seen below outside the ballroom at Westbury House, and further below with her son Michael, first as a boy, later as a grown man who followed his father onto the polo fields of Long Island.<br />
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The aerial view below was taken in the 1920s, after the Quaker farms of Old Westbury had been transformed into grand estates, but before those estates had been invaded by the aesthetically challenged architecture of Long Island today. Happily, none of the latter is visible from the grounds of the Phipps estate. During its salad days, Old Westbury and towns adjacent contained half a dozen estates belonging to assorted Phippses, Graces and Guests, elegant families interrelated by blood and marriage. Preservation Director Lorraine Gilligan is at the front door, waiting to take me around.<br />
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Interestingly, George Crawley was not a professional architect. In lieu of plans, he produced a set of beautiful pictures which then had to be converted into something a builder could follow. Enter Grosvenor Atterbury (1869-1956), an architect of choice for early 20th century country house customers - and, incidentally, the designer of Forest Hills Gardens. Crawley didn't get along too well with Trowbridge and Livingston, the outfit that designed Phipps' father's house in Manhattan. Similar conflicts characterized the job at Westbury House, but you wouldn't guess it from the finished product. The floor plan below, while helpful, is proportionately inaccurate, especially in Trumbauer's 1911 dining room and service suite addition. The prep pantry, for example, is four times the size of the silver room, the corridor to the servants' quarters is a third as wide as it looks, etc., etc. <br />
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Crawley had a stable of first class painters and artisans whose work can be seen all over the house. The high style Georgian entrance hall, seen below, is full of beautiful carving by sculptor Derwent Wood and a perspective ceiling (complete with Curious George) by painter A. Duncan Carse.<br />
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A short corridor at the western end of the entrance hall, after passing the gents' en route, leads to a library with fine painted paneling. Westbury House was decorated by Sir Charles Carrick Allom (1865-1947), proprietor of the famous firm of White Allom & Company. Clients included Henry Clay Frick, W.R. Hearst, the owners of the new (1931) Waldorf Astoria and the King of England. Ardrossan, the subject of last week's column, was a White Allom job. The portrait above the fireplace is Mrs. Phipps, painted in 1942.<br />
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A door on the south wall of the library leads to the drawing room, full of good art, good curtains, a good rug, good sconces, comfortable furniture, a scattering of antiques, a noble fireplace and a pair of very fine Waterford chandeliers - very Charles Allom, all in all. One of the chandeliers is real, the other a reproduction and, short of lowering both and examining them with a spectrograph, I doubt anyone (certainly not me) could tell the difference. The drawing room and library are connected to a large west facing porch. It must be heaven out here in the summer, when the retractable glass walls have disappeared into the floor and the room is filled with potted palms, floral covered wicker and summer breezes.<br />
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People with ballrooms didn't usually leave them empty in between dances. The Red Ballroom at Westbury would have been furnished much like the drawing room next door.<br />
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Adjoining the ballroom on the east is Mr. Phipps' study. Before the Trumbauer enlargement this was the dining room.<br />
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No sooner was it finished than Mr. & Mrs. Phipps began tinkering with their country house, and didn't stop for a quarter of a century. The porch on the west was pushed out and enclosed; the south wall of the enlarged ballroom was crowded onto a former porch. The earliest and biggest change, however, was Trumbauer's dining room and service wing on the east. The dining room we see today is not what Trumbauer, or probably Allom, designed in 1911. To the contrary, it is a reconfigured version of Jay Phipps' father's dining room in New York, designed by George Crawley in 1901 and salvaged prior to the 1927 demolition of Henry Phipps' townhouse at 1063 Fifth Avenue. Jay Phipps' sister Amy Guest saved Crawley's marble staircase from the same house, inserting it, to the dismay of architect Thomas Hastings, into Templeton, her Carrere & Hastings designed house four miles north of her brother's. If you're a regular reader of my column, you've seen that staircase already. <br />
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Lorraine is explaining to me how what they call the light court, behind her in the image below, was originally an open porch. The door on the left leads to the new dining room; the one on the right goes to the old dining room, now the study. I'll bet George Crawley intended this vanished porch to balance, at least when seen from certain angles, the one at the other end of the house. Speaking of intentions, I'll also bet Crawley's original plan had the reception room (there is none at present) where the library is, the library in today's drawing room and a drawing room on a reduced footprint on the site of today's ballroom. Admittedly I'm just guessing, but this would be a much more usual arrangement.<br />
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What's labeled "children's dining room" on the plan does not speak to the strengths of rejiggered floor plans. The name memorializes the thirty English children who refugeed to Westbury during the blitz. Before Trumbauer built the big addition, a part of this room was undoubtedly a serving pantry. Afterwards, it became part of an oddly inelegant approach route to the dining room. The door to the right of the fireplace leads to offices, pantries, servants' rooms (on this floor and the one above) and a fabulously preserved kitchen in the basement. <br />
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The corridor in the image below leads to servants' bedrooms on this floor, and a back stair that connects more servants' rooms on the floor above to a servant hall in the basement below.<br />
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Let's head down to the basement kitchen, connected by twin glass doored dumbwaiters to a prep pantry on the main floor. That in turn is connected to a very small serving pantry at the eastern end of the dining room. The basement level is largely below grade. The kitchen and the servant hall, however, have full size windows overlooking a service courtyard. <br />
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The former servant hall is now offices; the two-story brick building on the other side of the kitchen court was a laundry house, probably with additional quarters for help.<br />
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Time to go upstairs, admire the exceptional wood carving, and consider the second floor plan. <br />
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I am told that Mr. P's dressing room and the guestroom to the east of it were originally nurseries. This seems highly unlikely to me. Squalling babies right next door? Nannies on another floor? Guests asked to tiptoe after 8:00? Well, what do I know; I wasn't there. The floor as presently arranged makes more sense.<br />
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Mrs. P's delicious little boudoir shares a bath with a corner guestroom called, for obvious reasons, the Adam Room. <br />
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The "owners' bedroom" was presumably Mrs. Phipps', whose wonderful en suite bathroom sports silver plated fixtures. I assume her husband slept in "Mr. P's dressing room," the normal arrangement of things in a house like this. <br />
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The remaining guestrooms are predictably grand, and the one bath I managed to see was gratifyingly antique.<br />
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Here's another reason I love writing this column: "You want to see the roof, John?" That would be a yes. The first view below shows the Trumbauer wing looking east. That little penthouse in the distance contains third floor servants' rooms accessed by the back stair. The laundry house is visible on the other side of the kitchen courtyard. <br />
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Now we're looking west towards the balustraded dining room. The little brick dogleg in the center of the frame is the serving pantry, connecting the prep pantry beneath my feet to the dining room.<br />
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The third floor appears to be little changed, but was so crammed with storage and afflicted with inevitable leaks that I bowed to my hostess' request and kept photos to a minimum.<br />
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And with that, I have finished yet another house.<br />
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We're back almost to where we started, at the Grand Allee, but this time looking away from the house. You wouldn't know it, although unfortunately you can hear it, but at the end of this mysterious line of ancient trees are six lanes of roaring traffic on the Jericho Turnpike. Fifteen hundred feet beyond them, past a dozen suburban houses on a subdivision street called Evergreen Drive, are six more lanes on the Northern State Parkway. How close is the nearest subdivision to the left side of the allee? Don't ask. <br />
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That something this wonderful could have evaded Long Island's cruel history of postwar suburbanization is a miracle wrought by Mr. & Mrs. Phipps' children. Instead of cashing in, they chose to protect, endow and establish Old Westbury Gardens to maintain their parents' house and grounds for future generations. This extraordinary place is also a venue for paid college internships. Students from around the world study things like plant propagation practices, herbaceous border management, woody plant management and historic landscape preservation for credit towards bachelor's degrees. Old Westbury Gardens is open every weekend from early April until the end of October; the link is www.oldwestburygardens.org. <br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-24900963529353896782015-03-18T20:54:00.001-07:002015-03-23T21:20:16.890-07:00The Public Won't Believe It<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdi6NE6_k_TYUoNtKETtxSG5S1G1-cuuNKcHkgF1OT6mFNsYzoMxG9G0oF9MJiFa5xemFL12l8438fNxc-DqaaxvUhYoEOJQOyBbuhEy02S6UBopbeWVL5KZSWY_UVgrUrX3vxosC-wWUG/s1600/aerial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdi6NE6_k_TYUoNtKETtxSG5S1G1-cuuNKcHkgF1OT6mFNsYzoMxG9G0oF9MJiFa5xemFL12l8438fNxc-DqaaxvUhYoEOJQOyBbuhEy02S6UBopbeWVL5KZSWY_UVgrUrX3vxosC-wWUG/s640/aerial.jpg" /></a></div>In 1940, when Philadelphia businessman Edgar Scott offered George Cukor the use of his wife's family home to film "The Philadelphia Story," Cukor declined. "The public," the director explained, "would never believe Americans lived that way." Designed by Horace Trumbauer (1868-1938) and completed in 1911 for Col. Robert Leaming Montgomery (1879-1949), Ardrossan was, and amazingly still is, the apotheosis of the grand American country estate with a British accent. Trumbauer, known for his palaces, gave the client a scholarly Georgian Revival house, upon which Col. Montgomery gave White, Allom & Company, favorites of the British royals, the contract to decorate. And it's all still here, the last of the truly great Main Line estates still intact and in private hands.<br />
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It is the genius of the American social system that our social classes are so navigable. Col. and Mrs. Montgomery's daughter, Hope Scott (1904-1995), seen below at a party in Palm Beach dancing with the Duke of Marlborough, became the embodiment of "old money." But that money was actually only one generation old, having been made by her investment banker father. Mrs. Scott's mother, nee Charlotte Hope Binney (1881-1970) was a banking heiress, which didn't hurt. But American money doesn't really have to be old to ensure advancement on an accelerated schedule.<br />
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And they advanced with such good taste, and so photogenically too. Here is Col. Montgomery in his middle thirties, posed in hunting clothes in the ballroom of his new house on the Main Line. The English themselves couldn't have been more English than the grand folk of the Main Line which, as many of my readers well know, is that lapidary string of suburbs extending west out of Philadelphia along the main line of the Pennsylvania Railroad. Clubs, boarding schools, fox hunting, debutante balls, houses in town, plantations down south, they checked all the boxes. Who originally cooked up the term WASP (White Anglo-Saxon Protestant)? Answer: people describing the Main Line.<br />
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Hope Montgomery Scott, posed below in her father's ballroom beneath a portrait of herself by Augustus John, was a firecracker. She led a full and fabulous life, madcap and responsible by turns, but is best remembered as the inspiration, if not the exact model, for Tracy Lord in "The Philadelphia Story." Before it was a movie, "The Philadelphia Story," by playwright Phillip Barry, was a hit on Broadway. Scott's husband Edgar (1899-1995), grandson of Pennsylvania Railroad President Thomas A. Scott, was an aspirant writer himself. He and Barry met as young men at a summer writers' workshop and became lifelong friends. (Barry was a groomsman at Scott's wedding; Scott was a pallbearer at Barry's funeral). That friendship had inspired Barry's play, which led to Katherine Hepburn's purchase of screen rights (funds provided by boyfriend Howard Hughes), then Scott's offer of Ardrossan as a film location, and finally Cukor's amusing refusal. <br />
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I wish people would let ivy grow on houses the way they used to. I do not buy into this nonsense about houses falling down because of an ivy-precipitated lack of mortar between the bricks. Col. Montgomery lived in this house until 1949, and his widow until 1970, but it is their daughter Hope, dubbed by "Vanity Fair" as "the unofficial queen of Philadelphia's WASP oligarchy," who is most associated with it. Interestingly, Hope and Edgar Scott didn't live in it at all. Like many estates, Ardrossan (the name comes from an ancestral village in Scotland) had many other houses on the property, among them Orchard Lodge, into which the newly married Mr. & Mrs. Scott moved in 1923. Even today, encompassing only 350 of its original 750 acres, the Ardrossan estate still contains thirty separate residences of varying grades of elaborateness, occupied by descendants of Col. & Mrs. Montgomery and employees on the property. Also onsite are a dozen carriage houses, six barns and a garage designed by Horace Trumbauer. When the colonel's widow died in 1970, Hope & Edgar Scott were disinclined to leave Orchard Lodge, where they'd lived for almost 50 years. A younger sister, who lived with her mother during the latter's last years, stayed on in the big house until her own death in 1981. A cousin lives on the second floor today. <br />
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Here I am at the main gate to Ardrossan. I wouldn't call my own circumstances humble, but they are certainly not in this league. It is refreshing to learn - not just from what I read, but from personal, albeit brief, experience - that Ardrossan's architectural splendor is associated with a very nice group of people. On the Main Line, the Scotts entertained everyone from Averell Harriman to Cole Porter. Elsewhere on the globe they partied with princes, danced with cabaret singers and dined aboard yachts with heads of state. Mrs. Scott, a perennial on New York Couture's "best dressed" list, was a major fund-raiser for the Bryn Mawr Hospital. At her husband's 95th birthday, his mind and body failing fast, she toasted "the man who made me shine." <br />
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Ardrossan, while not as big as Whitemarsh or Lynnewood Halls, Trumbauer's Philadelphia area palaces for E.T. Stotesbury and P.A.B. Widener, has the virtue of still standing (unlike the first) and (unlike the second) possessing its original furniture. Ardrossan is administered by bankers on behalf of a family trust and used, as far as I can tell, as a sort of family club for private events and celebrations. <br />
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The south facade enjoys a fantastically bucolic view, unexpected to say the least, since we are exactly ten linear miles from 30th Street Station in downtown Philadelphia. <br />
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The kitchen/service court is at the western end of the house. That ungainly modern addition on the left, constructed in the early 1980s, is a private entrance to the second floor, which hasn't been structurally converted into a separate apartment but is used as one.<br />
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Time for a look inside.<br />
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The first floor plan is similar to what you'd see in many big old houses, the difference being scale and the addition of various bells and whistles, notably a ballroom. The Hall, not to be confused with the Long Hall, is really a drawing room, but one of such scale that I'd assume less formidable visits would take place in the library. The Hall, interestingly, is bigger than the Ballroom which, in between big dances, is furnished like another grand drawing room. <br />
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Here's the Long Hall looking east to west. The door on the left goes to the dining room, which we'll visit in a moment. The next door leads to our next stop, the Hall, notable for a footprint the size of a suburban house and twin marble fireplaces ornamented respectively with portraits of Col. and Mrs. Montgomery.<br />
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How nice to see an old library in a grand private house - no ropes, no "interpretative" plaques, no well-intentioned but faulty furniture placement, no misfires on replacement curtains or rugs. This one is just the way Mrs. Montgomery left it - glass-doored bookshelves, damask wall coverings, bronze statuettes, portraits of ancestors, silk lamp shades, silver framed brides and all. The needlepoint upholstery on the very good looking furniture was done by the lady of the house herself, a veritable Penelope awaiting her Odysseus.<br />
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A door on the library's north wall leads to the Ballroom, photographed by Mattie Edwards Hewitt in the 1930s, and by John Foreman in 2015. We have two different styles, Mattie and I. You could easily be dizzied by the catalogue of important portrait artists whose works adorn these wall, so I shall simply dispense with them all. The Ballroom at Ardrossan brings to mind a Christmas party I recently attended at the Russian consulate in New York. The Russians own a house designed in 1903 by Carrere and Hastings for a Vanderbilt husband named John Henry Hammond. The piano nobile was recently restored with impressive workmanship by imported Russian craftsmen, coupled with a wild misunderstanding of the dangers of excessive gold leaf, courtesy of an Auric Goldfinger from New York's Fashion Institute of Technology. The point being, a little gold goes a very long way and informed restraint, as illustrated in the images below, is so much more elegant. <br />
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My very hospitable hosts were David Nelson Wren and Joan Mackie. Ardrossan was Joanie's grandparents' house.<br />
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Just outside the Ballroom is Col. Montgomery's study, a small room to which Trumbauer has infused architectural largeness. Besides cranking out money, hunting foxes and developing one of the finest country estates in America, Col. Montgomery was an aviation buff. Each season his private plane ferried the family back and forth between Ardrossan and a South Carolina shooting estate called Mansfield Plantation. <br />
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The view below shows the Long Hall, this time looking east. That's the entrance to the front vestibule on the left. We're headed for the dining room at the end of the hall, detouring first into a small powder room located beneath the main stair. The toilet here bears a most discomfiting brand name. Outside the powder room is a pivoted bullseye window with convex exterior ironwork, the sort of detail that makes me love old houses. <br />
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According to photos in a 1915 issue of "Country Life in America," the floor to ceiling mahogany paneled dining room hasn't really changed in a century. The elegant bell pull, unlike so much else in the house, doesn't work. <br />
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A stone porch immediately east of the dining room functioned as a breakfast room. The mirrored doors were originally glazed, providing a second exposure and 100% more light. They were blocked by construction of the exterior staircase which, in a perfect world, would be demolished sooner rather than later. <br />
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The porch and the dining room are both connected to the serving pantry, which is connected to the kitchen, which is connected to the servant hall, all of which are in thrillingly original condition. The kitchen walk-in is comprised of several chilly little rooms.<br />
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Down a short flight, opposite the main stair, is a men's shower and dressing room, in case you got muddy chasing the fox.<br />
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Here I must make a departure from my normal Big Old Houses tour. The second floor of Ardrossan is a family member's home, full of dogs and children and personal clutter which I was asked not to photograph. There have been a few changes to the plan - a pair of guestrooms combined, a bathroom glamorized in the 1930s - but overall it remains essentially as built, with grand rooms and lots of heavy moldings. <br />
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Out of delicacy, we took the service stair to the third floor, threaded our way through a coil of corridors, admired superior servants' rooms, and emerged finally on the family landing.<br />
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Ardrossan is big on long halls and here's another, running down the spine of the children's floor on 3. There have been times in the past when people lived up here too, much as they do on the second floor today.<br />
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There is an elevator (of course) and a main stair (not taken), so it's back to the servants' stair.<br />
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I couldn't leave without looking at the basement, which was vast and clean and contained a very large wine cellar without a single bottle.<br />
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After her mother's death in 1970, the irrepressible Mrs. Scott took over the operation of Ardrossan's dairy farm which, until 1952, had had its own local milk route. After that the farm sold direct to Wawa, a convenience chain whose odd name won't ring bells outside the mid-Atlantic states. Mrs. Scott was chairwoman and/or honorary chair of the Devon Horse Show and County Fair until the end of her life. She is seen below astride a bull on Opening Day. She died in 1995 after a crack on the head suffered in a fall at Ardrossan. She got right up, refused medical attention, and died a day later as a result of bleeding in the brain. Her husband of 72 years died four months later. <br />
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What can I say about change that isn't a cliche? When Mrs. Montgomery died in 1971, about 400 acres of the estate were sold for residential development. The aesthetic impact was ameliorated somewhat by the size of the lots, all of which were over 20 acres. Mrs. Montgomery left Ardrossan to her 4 children, but since that date there have been children of children, and more children of children's children. Some of the heirs live on the property, but many more watch from other places as proceeds from trusts in which they participate disappear into the ravening maw of Ardrossan. Happily, all concerned agree the place is too valuable to perish. The solution appears to be more minimal development on the perimeter of a large protected acreage, the main house remaining in family hands on 10 acres. We've all seen fine old houses with hideous McMansions flanking both sides of former driveways, squatting in former gardens, sometimes spang in the middle of former front lawns. I don't think that'll happen here, but I was grateful to have seen Ardrossan before anything happened at all.<br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-55410804841597780042015-03-11T20:57:00.000-07:002015-03-11T20:57:56.139-07:00A Visit to Rumson<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYNU8eUih7qJrgBsdY90aMwqSFcmYmXE6M7qvimqvYhOlxkbdU_3XM5a9OayHid0SGLWHzgDmuxo357sCgHk9Kn9padI1aj56BMqXlDcqBdAiKp5hiqUpIJPT6ud-pJupvRtGZbKrWXLg9/s1600/IMG_6763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYNU8eUih7qJrgBsdY90aMwqSFcmYmXE6M7qvimqvYhOlxkbdU_3XM5a9OayHid0SGLWHzgDmuxo357sCgHk9Kn9padI1aj56BMqXlDcqBdAiKp5hiqUpIJPT6ud-pJupvRtGZbKrWXLg9/s640/IMG_6763.JPG" /></a></div>It is a fact of life: Republicans live well. In defense of this assertion, I submit to you the Monmouth County, New Jersey Borough of Rumson, population 7,122, where registered Republicans outnumber their Democratic neighbors by 2 to 1. Rumson is located approximately 20 miles south of the Battery as the crow flies, which would be very convenient if you were a crow. As it is, travelers between Manhattan and this former swell summer colony turned posh suburb must either do battle on BOTH the Garden State and I-95, or take a far superior one-hour ferry ride from Atlantic Highlands to East 35th Street. The latter ain't cheap, but if you live in Rumson what's the big deal?<br />
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Here is Riverside, designed by Beaux-Arts trained architect William Welles Bosworth (1868-1966) as it looked when completed in 1908. The client was James Guyon Timolat, the president of the Oakland Chemical Co., an unfortunately unglamorous manufacturer of barium chemicals used to produce hydrogen peroxide. If he hired Bosworth to design a place in Rumson, however, he must have been doing pretty well. Rumson occupies the eastern tip of a peninsula bordered on the north and south by the Navesink and Shrewsbury Rivers respectively, anchored on the west by the picturesque Borough of Red Bank (where Democrats outnumber Republicans 2 to 1), and shielded from the Atlantic on the east by a barrier beach known, ungrammatically, as "Down the Shore." That beach long ago succumbed to architectural banality. Not so Rumson.<br />
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Here's the house with mature landscaping. Riverside isn't actually in Rumson at all. It's located on the north side of the Navesink River in what is technically Middletown with a Red Bank mailing address. Psychologically, however, this is Rumson. The house sits on a 13 acre waterfront parcel that includes a separate 3-car garage, two cottages, winding drives, specimen trees and a private dock. It is surrounded by numerous similar or larger properties that either border the river itself or gaze from wooded heights across it to manicured Rumson on the opposite shore. The 20th century has surrounded Rumson and environs with a lot of pretty ordinary stuff. Places like Navesink River Road, however, preserve a rural atmosphere of vintage country estates.<br />
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This is Riverside today, an appealing house on a manageable estate, although whoever fiddled with the front porch and walled up the flanking windows should be slapped upside the head. Bosworth did numerous big houses in town and in the country, but he is famous for designing the new (1913) campus of his alma mater, the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. MIT's School of Architecture, interestingly, was a proponent of Beaux Arts techniques. This undoubtedly contributed to Bosworth's desire and success when he left the U.S. and finished his studies in Paris in 1896. His later work on Kykuit, John D Rockefeller's house in Pocantico Hills, changed the course of his life. So pleased was Rockefeller with Bosworth's work that he invited him in 1924 to be supervising architect for the Rockefeller financed restoration of Versailles and Notre Dame de Reims. Bosworth never came home, dying in France in 1966, the recipient of many honors including the French Legion of Honor. <br />
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Riverside may not be Bosworth's best work but, notwithstanding the above-noted meddling, its exteriors are vigorous and original, particularly the river facade. <br />
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As we shall see, this house has been totally, thoroughly and intensively restored - well, renovated in some places, restored in others - with all new electrical and water service, gas piping, "Timberline" lifetime roof, whole house generator, not to mention a new Dura-Lift elevator, all new lighting fixtures, etc., etc. The original shutters have been stripped and repainted, the windows restored, new lighting installed on the drive, and the ornate entrance gates removed, re-welded, repainted and replaced on new pillars. There is really nothing that could have been done that hasn't, including the replacement of a dilapidated greenhouse with the 3-car garage, the back of which is seen in the image below.<br />
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When built, Riverside was neither a manor house nor a country seat, but a stylish summer place in a smart town. It was a getaway, albeit a swell one, where formal people could live informally. The interior plan is gracious but simple, the finishes handsome but not elegant. By 2013 it had fallen into such a state of dilapidation that its future was uncertain. Enter retired advertising executive and philanthropist Morgan Cline, a neighbor on Navesink River Road, who bought and began to restore the house purely in order to save it. Cline was a preservation legend in New Jersey, the savior of many an old building and a key player in the dramatic rebirth of Hoboken. It is an interesting coincidence that his firm, Cline Davis & Mann, was behind the successful launch of Viagra. Cline died suddenly in April, 2014, and his estate continued the restoration he had started. <br />
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Much of the charm of an old house derives from a patine acquired over years of being lived in. The fireplace bought at a 1920 auction, the wall coverings put up by somebody's grandmother, the over-scaled plumbing fixtures, silk-shaded sconces, even the shortage of closets and over-abundance of maids' rooms conspire mysteriously to transform often unexceptional rooms into places you absolutely love. Riverside is a "new" old house. It has been restored to the condition it was in on the day it was built. This insures structural longevity and improves marketability, and most people would never put up with the inconveniences I live with at Daheim. Don't get me wrong, I like it a lot, but it's not exactly an old house any more. <br />
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First stop, the drawing room. With all the space, light, big french doors and fab pillared porch with river view, how could you not make this into a knockout?<br />
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The adjacent library has a summer cottage feel to it. Behind a door on the north wall is a corridor with a new powder room. <br />
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My host, P.J. Rotchford from Gloria Nilson Real Estate, is standing in the sun room, looking more serious than he actually was that day. There's a water view from almost every room in the house.<br />
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Let's return through the library and the drawing room for a look at the dining room. Love birds on the fireplace tiles strike an Arts and Crafts note.<br />
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Live-in servants were part of the world for which Riverside was built. Bosworth provided a well planned series of connecting spaces on the north wall of the building that enabled the help to circulate efficiently without intruding on the family. The serving or butler's pantry, which functions as one of these spaces, interprets traditional old house pantry vocabulary - glass door cabinets, marble countertops - with style.<br />
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New it may be, but this kitchen complements the original house. In fact, I wouldn't mind having one like it at Daheim.<br />
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Let's take the servants' path to the main stair and have a look at the second floor.<br />
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The straightforward second floor plan compensates for a lack of architectural brio with space, abundant bathrooms, tremendous light and decorating potential. Empty of furniture and window treatments, walls painted the same no-color color, the owners' suite in the images below looks kind of flat. The bathrooms don't help; despite some marble moments, they're not great. <br />
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Family bedrooms are distributed along a narrow east-west hallway with a new elevator at its eastern end. A few feet from the elevator door is the entrance to the servants' quarters.<br />
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The service wing is connected to the kitchen below by a back stair. I rather like the un-renovated bath. The wonderful room at the eastern end of the house, which I have labeled Nursery, was probably intended as more than a bedroom.<br />
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I think we have seen Riverside.<br />
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Let me close today's post with the following observations: 1) It's a pleasure writing about old houses in private hands, without velvet ropes and "no go" zones; 2) Despite my occasional criticisms, I think Mr. Cline, and his estate after his death, did a noble thing fixing up this fine old house; and 3) There was nary a scratch, a nick or a crack in the whole place, which for me was....eerie. Ready to pull out that checkbook and start writing? If so, you can contact either P.J. Rotchford or Geralyn Behring at Gloria Nilson & Co. Real Estate in Rumson; that's www.glorianilson.com.<br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-35470947590890505362015-03-04T21:15:00.001-08:002015-03-04T21:15:41.563-08:00The Marquesa de Who?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZDA4TdVgMWHqttZy1lymY0u4uzq6vallXXes62_AntYrHeM6WoqQjyWq3qOB1pquXlDtUCFTOO-z3RY5bKa0SAsOqjYjVLqkZjpQzKv6_JMmMIRNPo9wFK6OrxPDbzKvPHcOYo5Wwhhm-/s1600/IMG_6389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZDA4TdVgMWHqttZy1lymY0u4uzq6vallXXes62_AntYrHeM6WoqQjyWq3qOB1pquXlDtUCFTOO-z3RY5bKa0SAsOqjYjVLqkZjpQzKv6_JMmMIRNPo9wFK6OrxPDbzKvPHcOYo5Wwhhm-/s640/IMG_6389.JPG" /></a></div>It is the archetypal preservationist's dream - the beautiful historic house snatched from the clutches of a cold-hearted developer, while the wrecking ball is actually swinging. And it happened right here in River City. In 1965 a certain Marquesa de Cuevas appeared, deus ex machina, literally out of nowhere bearing $2 million in cash to halt developer Sigmund Sommer from doing the dirty on McKim Mead & White's Percy Pyne house at 680 Park Avenue (far left in the image above). The whole block is now a landmark, in great part because of her.<br />
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The question is, who was this woman? Usually the answer is limited to her maiden name; Margaret Rockefeller Strong (1897-1988). The Marquesa's life and the circumstances surrounding her 1965 largesse are a lot juicier than the simple fact that she was just one more Rockefeller. Margaret Strong was Standard Oil co-founder John D. Rockefeller's favorite granddaughter, a solemn child, raised in Fiesole, Italy by her expat intellectual parents, heiress Bessie Rockefeller and her husband, former University of Chicago psychologist Charles Augustus Strong. <br />
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She grew into a cultured, multi-lingual, homely, overly serious, not to mention tremendously rich, young woman. Sent by her father in the late 'Twenties to find a husband in Paris, she met George de Cuevas (1885-1961) at Irfe, the chic couture house of Rasputin-assassin Prince Felix Yusupov. "The Rockefeller and the Ballet Boys," Dominick Dunne's amusing piece in the February, 1987 "Vanity Fair," describes the mise en scene - Yusupov in pink rouge and green eye shadow, his wife Irina wooing haute Paris into their "hothouse of fashion," and sleek little Cuevas who, when asked by the somber Ms. Strong what he did at the couture, replied, "I'm the saleslady." Did she care? Evidently not. In 1928 they married and embarked on a no-boundaries life of party-giving and conspicuous consumption. She learned to enjoy herself, and he got his own ballet company - the Ballet du Marquis de Cuevas - courtesy of his rich wife. The legitimacy of his title might have been questionable, but its aesthetic appropriateness was not. <br />
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Cuevas, notwithstanding marriage and 2 children, was generally acknowledged to be the lover of Felix Yusupov. Likewise, the Marquesa's 2nd husband, Raymundo de Larrain Valdes (1935-1988), seen below (at left) in 1957 with the Vicomtesse Jacqueline de Ribes, was generally assumed to have been the lover of George Cuevas. The Vicomtesse is wearing a headdress designed by de Larrain for a contest at the Baile de Tetes. The judges included the Duke and Duchess of Windsor; the contestants included Dior, Balenciaga and Dali; the winner was young Raymundo de Larrain (who, incidentally, was actually 5 years older than he said he was); and the event is what launched him seriously into the haute boheme. <br />
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Richard Avedon's famous 1961 photo of de Ribes and de Larrain, to my eye anyway, captures both the gorgeousness and the heartlessness of European high society. (Well, that's just me). George de Cuevas died that same year, leaving his Marquesa to the devices of his former lover de Larrain (who now also styled himself a marquess), plus an unsavory Dutch race car driver named Jan de Vroom, a man who ultimately had his throat slit by a couple of toughs he brought home from a bar. I've no room to catalogue all the mad eccentricities of the Marquesa de Cuevas - the pair of limousines waiting daily by her door, just in case she wanted to go somewhere, the decaying teeth, the slovenly dress, the radios playing 10 different stations, the embarrassingly over-the-top gifting (a boat, a Rolls, a pair of Ferraris, even a plane to de Vroom alone). You can read about them in Dunne's piece in "Vanity Fair." It was in the middle of her early widowhood, that she paid Sigmund Sommer to halt demolition not just at 680 Park, but also at 684 Park and an adjoining Sommer property around the corner at 49 East 68th St. The Marquesa by that time had become such a notorious stay-at-home one wonders how she knew what was going on. <br />
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In 1977, when de Larrain was 42 (even though he was really 47) and the Marquesa was 80, the couple married at an oceanfront mansion in Palm Beach. Even her children, who later sued him, admitted their mother's new husband was always nice to her. On the day of the wedding, the groom famously gave the bride a new set of teeth and an improved wheelchair. de Larrain cleaned the old lady up thoroughly and thoughtfully - nails, hair, clothing, hygiene - and kept her that way until she died. That said, between 1977 and her death in 1985, some $30 million of her assets managed to go missing. <br />
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For 17 years prior to developer Sommer's acquisition of his parcel at Park and 68th, the Pyne house had served first as consulate, then as United Nations mission of the Soviet Union. Doubtless all manner of sinister doings unfolded within, but once the Russians stepped outside, they assumed an air of unfailing jollity. <br />
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Not so jolly was the reality of demolition, not just threatened but underway.<br />
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680 Park, seen below before Mr. Pyne filled his garden (at the extreme right) with a house for son-in-law Oliver Filley, was a particularly exquisite example of the newly fashionable Federal Revival style - which one could just as easily call Georgian or Colonial Revival. McKim Mead & White started design work in 1909, and the Pynes moved in in 1911. <br />
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A few weeks ago, while photographing 68th to 69th on Park for my piece on the Park Avenue Houses, a stern voice interrupted me mid-shot demanding to know why I was taking pictures of her building. Thanks to old John's charm, within 10 minutes we were friends, and a week later the Americas Society Facility Manager, Claribel Colon, was taking me on the sort of house tour nobody gets - or maybe asks for - except me. <br />
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The Americas Society, which describes itself as "the premier forum dedicated to education, debate and dialogue in the Americas" has owned 680 Park since the Marquesa's cousin, David Rockefeller, gave it to them in 1965. The main hall was recently redone and I'm not a fan of the result. Fortunately it's less radical than it appears and close observation shows that most of the original architecture is intact. <br />
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The great ornament of 680 is its graceful elliptical staircase, which basically is untouched. The boxy post-modern portal to the elevator is depressing, but removable.<br />
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Except for the main hall, today's first floor bears no resemblance to the original McKim Mead & White floor plan. What's labeled "RECPT'N ROOM" on the plan below is way too small to have been anything of the sort. I'm sure it was a coat/dressing room, especially since it's next to a half bath. The "BILLIARD R'M" on the plan was the real reception room, a fact illustrated by early photos. It and the entire kitchen suite have been demolished, the windows that overlooked Park and 68th blocked up, and the space converted to a large gallery. At some point, either during the Soviet period or maybe while the Pynes were here, a 2nd servants' elevator was inserted into the back stairwell and a dumbwaiter snuggled against the west wall of the pantry. <br />
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The coat room is now wall-less and contains the Society's reception desk. It looks directly across the hall to the old reception room, now gallery, entrance.<br />
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Here's what the reception room looked like in Percy Pyne's day. As readers of my column well know, reception rooms were handy venues for unscheduled and/or informal visits when grand drawing rooms could seem a bit much. Some of the paneling, including the chimney breast, survived the apocalypse and was reinstalled in the owners' bedroom suite on 3. Claribel and friend are standing in front of the door that connects the gallery to the main hall.<br />
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This was the kitchen. Blocked windows behind the camera overlooked 68th St.; the door on the far wall led to prep and service pantries, dumbwaiter and Valet Room, an area now converted to shared office space. <br />
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Let's return to the main hall and head upstairs.<br />
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Thomas L. Moore, architect in charge of Walker O. Cain & Associates 1965 alteration, termed the job "a fascinating and challenging assignment." Bear in mind this was an era made infamous for insensitivity to historic architecture by demolition of Pennsylvania Station. The client was also an institution in need of gallery, meeting and office space - use demands not always in harmony with old mansion interiors. Considering the destruction under way when Moore took over, it's amazing anything at all got saved, leave alone restored. The antique mantels were gone, the parquet ripped up, and walls on the lower floors already partly removed. Moore gutted the top two floors for modern office space and replaced most of the ground floor with a windowless gallery. But he also located very creditable antique mantelpieces to replace the ones that had been sold, even located a few of the originals and brought them back. The public rooms on the second floor are today in a very close approximation to original condition. Together with the staircase, they have preserved the heart of the house.<br />
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The images below show the library, then and now. Marble insets on the fireplace contain Pyne family devices. <br />
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The Den, reached through a door on the north wall of the library, was Mr. Pyne's office. With the exception of its 1965 bathroom, it's essentially intact. <br />
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How bad was it when the Marquesa arrived on her white horse? You can see for yourself in the views below, looking west from the library down the second floor hall.<br />
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The door to the drawing room (Salon on the plan) faces the main stair in the middle of the landing. The ceiling was supposedly inspired by a Robert Adam design for the Duchess of Bolton's London dressing room at Bolton House (designed 1770; demolished 1913). In fact, it turns out to be the actual ceiling, detached from its 18th century moorings by means mysterious to me, shipped to New York, and installed in Mr Pyne's Park Avenue house in 1911. The first image below shows the room last week. The second shows it right after Cain & Associates finished the job and Mr. Moore finished the furnishing. The chairs and sofas aren't in the same league as the chandelier, mirrors or 18th century English fireplace but, taken as a whole, there's been a quantum leap since the eve of destruction.<br />
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What else went missing between 1911 and 1965? Beautiful mahogany doors, for one thing, none of which is anywhere to be seen today, plus a large section of wall that formerly separated the dining and drawing rooms.<br />
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The Cain alteration replaced the original parquet with wide planks of Brazilian Imbuia, a walnut substitute used in fine furniture. Those planks accurately date images that might otherwise be taken for Pyne period views. Although I'm told the furniture in the restoration views, some of which looks pretty snappy, is all still in the building, I didn't see much of it. <br />
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The door to the serving pantry hasn't moved, and neither has the dumbwaiter beyond. The pantry itself is now a modern catering kitchen. I don't know what's going on in the middle of the demolition view. The fireplace would have been behind the leaning panels in the middle of the view. <br />
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The original mahogany doors - trust me, they were mahogany - may all be gone, but McKim Mead & White's magnificent stair looks as good as the day it was built. <br />
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I don't have the original 3rd floor plan, but I'm pretty certain Mrs. Pyne's bedroom would have been on the corner overlooking Park Avenue (wives always got the best views). It was probably connected on the north to a boudoir and bath, and on the west to her husband's bedroom and bath, the latter rooms overlooking 68th Street. Assuming I'm right, and in this sort of thing I usually am, the former boudoir would be dead ahead of us in the image below. It is now the Society's library, portions of which were paneled with woodwork and chimney breast from the old reception room downstairs. Not exactly a museum restoration, but better than nothing, I guess.<br />
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I think the image below shows the boudoir in the period between grave robbers and installation of the reception room woodwork. <br />
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Mrs. Pyne's bedroom is now the librarian's office. The fireplace, which used to be in another bedroom, was carted off during demolition, after which some clever fellow spotted it in a local antique shop. The Society bought it back, and their architect had it installed here. <br />
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The rest of the floor, with one exception, has been reconfigured for office and seminar use. The original plan is obscured and the old bathrooms are gone.<br />
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The exception is this very handsome room located at the western end of the house, directly over the serving pantry. I am told it was the family's breakfast room, an idea I like, even though the dumbwaiter doesn't come to the 3rd floor. I do think it unlikely such fancy scenic wallpaper - "Les Incas," hand printed in Paris in 1832 - would be tucked away in a guestroom. <br />
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Blocking the windows and painting the tile walls has made the back stair appear more changed than it really is.<br />
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The 4th and 5th floors, traditional domains of children and servants respectively, were totally rebuilt as modern offices. <br />
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Time to head downstairs.<br />
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A few words are now in order about titles, or, at least, about the respective Marquises of Cuevas and Larrain. George de Cuevas was a good guy, a loving husband in his way (gay or not), and kind and understanding in relations with his difficult and overly entitled wife, even after they stopped living together. He was a much loved figure in the world of ballet, so I suppose it doesn't much matter whether his title was entirely legit or not. de Larrain was equally kind to Margaret Strong, and perhaps more creative in the world of ballet. His Paris production of Sleeping Beauty is remembered as the most beautiful production ever. de Larrain was the man who engineered Rudolf Nureyev's successful defection to the West. Titles, like people and properties, fall vacant from time to time. In November of 1956, Raymundo de Larrain joined a line of distantly related people who struggled to reclaim and rehabilitate a family title vacated in 1852 due to lack of direct succession. Like the others before him, he didn't succeed, which didn't stop him from saying he did. <br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-37179453445237977072015-02-25T21:12:00.001-08:002015-02-25T21:12:34.289-08:00Persia on the Mountaintop<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKhoLIsJ5EZD88Lsq9spC-E6yt6eztVDhGRdT2DFEyKoeUK2EWDAb1Zi191Gv2ODg4S-yfGBIZVTmpx-BtlvwJ2IBugvT1LxP6uhK5lZjER2XFR01MvKjvCcq7nfiAKDW2ziGpYog81vfR/s1600/Twilite+In+Wilderness.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKhoLIsJ5EZD88Lsq9spC-E6yt6eztVDhGRdT2DFEyKoeUK2EWDAb1Zi191Gv2ODg4S-yfGBIZVTmpx-BtlvwJ2IBugvT1LxP6uhK5lZjER2XFR01MvKjvCcq7nfiAKDW2ziGpYog81vfR/s640/Twilite+In+Wilderness.jpg" /></a></div>Frederic Edwin Church (1826-1900) painted "Twilight in the Wilderness" in 1860, when he was 34 years old. I finally "saw" it (like Jake 'saw' Neytiri in 'Avatar') when I was in my middle 40s. I'd been given a book for Christmas titled "The Hudson River School, Nature and the American Vision" and in its illustrations I had glimpsed the infinite. OK, sounds hokey, but in the wake of the experience I found myself haunting museums, classy bookstores and the Hudson River School collection at the New York Historical Society in search of more of the same. I never again took the sky for granted.<br />
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Here's Church, photographed in 1868 on a camel in Beirut. That's his little boy, Frederic Joseph, in his lap, a little boy who looks none too certain about his father's plans. Those plans, had he known at the time, would soon take tangible form on top of a small mountain in the Hudson Valley. Houses in Beirut "are often quite grand, "Church wrote to a friend at home. "They have a large room called the court in the center...and smaller rooms on each side...I have got new and excellent ideas about house building since I came abroad." <br />
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Mrs. Church, nee Isabel Carnes (1836-1899), married Church in Dayton, OH in 1860. She gave him 2 children, both of whom died early, then picked herself up and gave him 3 more boys and a girl, all of whom survived to adulthood. A daughter-in-law, Mrs. Louis Church, nee Sally Goode, was the last of the Churches to live in the Persian house above the Hudson. <br />
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Artistically and professionally, Church was on fire from his late teens on. Thomas Cole's pupil at 18, a full member of the National Academy of Design by 23, he was a household name at 31, when he painted "Niagara," seen below. But painters and paintings, like everything, move in cycles. Church was barely 50 when fashionistas dropped the Hudson River School with a thud, and took up with the new Impressionists. By this point, perhaps fortuitously, Church had refocused his creative energies on his house. <br />
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And here it is, "Olana," named after (what else?) an ancient city in Persia. Church traveled quite a lot, but evidently no place made as great an impression on him as the Middle East. Olana is located about 4 miles south of the Hudson Valley city of Hudson, and looks extremely unlike anything anywhere nearby - or far away. Church began accumulating land in 1860 but didn't acquire the house site until 1867. When he did, he hired Beaux Arts-trained Richard Morris Hunt (1827-1895), future Vanderbilt palace builder, to design the house. Something evidently didn't click, since by 1870 the architect of record was Calvert Vaux (1824-1895), famous co-designer with Frederick Law Olmsted of the "Greensward Plan" for New York's Central Park. During the planning process of Olana, Vaux deferred so totally to Church's and his wife's aesthetic decisions that he described himself as a "consulting architect" only - which may have been the root of the problem with Richard Hunt. <br />
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Distracted by the jaw-dropping views, visitors understandably overlook the subtleties of Church's planned landscape. It's a tossup as to which is more distracting - the obsessively decorated Muslim confection perched at one's back, or the sublime views of the Hudson and the Catskills in the other direction. <br />
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That's the Rip Van Winkle Bridge in the image below, connecting the east bank city of Hudson with the west bank village of Catskill, home of Church's first teacher, Thomas Cole. Olana originally sat at the heart of 250 acres of scenic drives, ornamental orchards, dense woods, an artificial lake, planned viewlines and (would that we all had one) a "ferme ornee" ('ornamental farm,' in case your Marie Antoinette cheatsheet is locked up somewhere), planned and executed in an un-obviously Vaux-ish kind of a way. Under New York State stewardship the property has grown to 520 acres, not counting viewshed restrictions on several thousand more. Much is made of Church's artistic integration of house and grounds. Personally, I'm more of an Achille Duchene, Beatrix Farrand or Charles A. Platt kind of a guy, but that's just me.<br />
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During this bitter winter, if the mid-river channel weren't kept open the Hudson would be solid ice from bank to bank.<br />
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The winterized front door faces southeast. Before going inside, let's scout around to the back.<br />
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Olana's back wall, despite its service and delivery functions, is a more appealing composition than its blank looking entrance facade. Let's glance at the handsomely restored stable - "handsome" being the operative adjective for ALL of Olana's high quality restoration work - then circle back to the front door. <br />
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In the wake of the Civil War, American architecture entered an era of either adventurous experimentation or crazy excess, depending on your point of view. The stately march of pre-war revival styles - Greek, Gothic, Italianate - seemed calm in comparison to the unleashed exoticisms of the 1870s. Olana is a product of the exoticism era, a period of national astonishment terminated finally at century's end by Beaux Arts discipline. Olana is not the work of a great architect, but rather that of an artistic amateur and his wife who rendered in stone and paint their personal vision of beauty. As a work of art, it's amazing. As a place to live, it's less successful.<br />
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Winterization aside, Olana's entrance is still slightly forbidding. This is due, I suspect, to its owners' infatuation with the grand houses of Beirut, where heat and dangerous streets were a greater factor than they were at Hudson, New York.<br />
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Notes on the plan below: The heart of the original house - the Corridor and Studio being 1888 additions - is the Court Hall. I'm sure the similarities are accidental, but Church's Beiruti-inspired Court Hall bears a strong resemblance to the Living Halls in soon to be fashionable shingled manses designed by McKim Mead & White and Peabody & Stearns. The rest of Olana's interior plan is a Casbah of snaking corridors and multiple levels whose intricate decor is the result of literally hundreds of sketches of finials, balusters, moldings, stencil designs, etc., etc. "I designed the house myself," Church wrote in 1877, underscoring Vaux's self-deprecation. He furnished it himself too, with, according to his daughter, much unacknowledged help from his wife. Olana is decorated with Shaker rockers, Kashmiri tables, Rococo Revival chairs, Syrian metalware, etc., etc, the sole common deniminator being an appeal to its owners' extremely catholic tastes.<br />
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Adjacent to the front door is the East Parlor, a logical reception room location. <br />
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Nowadays, between clever lighting, specialty lenses and above all Photoshop, it is possible to take pictures which, frankly, are not very honest. When I photograph a house, however, that's what it really looks like. These pictures aren't publicity stills, they're documents. In the case of Olana, they document the "artistic" palette of the late 19th century, meaning everything is either brown, beige, moss green, rust or not quite 50 shades of grey. What can I say about a room like this? I am fascinated to be up here on top of the world. How amazing it is to look out the windows and see....all of that. How wonderful that this curious submarine from the 1870s is all still here. None of this alters the fact that "artistic" back then reads as "gloomy" today. <br />
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Doors from the vestibule lead to the Court Hall, whose Middle Eastern ancestors were probably unroofed. <br />
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The Court Hall is amazingly unchanged, as you can see from the image below, photographed by Robert and Emily de Forest on October 11, 1884 (courtesy Collection Olana State Historic Site, NYSOPRHP). The unchanging quality of Olana, a leitmotif in its existence, was not mirrored in the career of its creator. When the de Forests visited Church and his wife in the mid-1880s, the Hudson River School was in retreat from public favor and Church himself was suffering from progressive rheumatism. Luckily, he had his scenic roads, planned vistas, decorative farmstead and Persian house to keep him busy. In 1888 he added the studio wing; in 1889, he closed his Manhattan studio and moved everything up to Olana. Church continued to paint, but his former celebrity was on the wane.<br />
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The Sitting Room, reached through the door in the image below, would more logically be a library if the bookshelves weren't in an alcove off the Court Hall. French doors at its western end lead to a delicious piazza overlooking the Catskills.<br />
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The Cloak Hall was a sort of Victorian mudroom containing closets, a sink (not sure why), and a half bath which, alas, I could not see. During its entire career as a private house, unless I missed something, Olana had a grand total of one and half bathrooms. Attached to the western end of the cloakroom is the Corridor, it being a sort of ceremonial approach to the owner's Studio.<br />
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Almost everything in this room has been sitting in the same place, and/or hanging on the same spot on the wall, for 125 years.<br />
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We're going to retrace our steps down the Corridor, cut across the top of the Court Hall, and have a look at Olana's combination dining room/picture gallery, where wall space is abundant and daylight is not.<br />
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Connected to the Dining room is a Serving Pantry - big on light, short on counter space, full of charming cabinetry and original dishes, but not very ergonomically laid out. A restoration is wisely planned for the kitchen beyond. <br />
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The Servant Hall overlooks the kitchen court at the rear of the house. The door leads to a back stair - down to the laundry and storage rooms; up to the maids' rooms.<br />
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This short flight of stairs - a necessity, given the difference in ceiling heights for the help and the gentry - connects the servants' quarters to family bedrooms on the second floor. No servants' stairs for us, however. We're doubling back to the Court Hall and taking the grand stair up.<br />
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There's a lot of stuff in this house and not always a place to put it, which is why the Chinese bed is in the middle of the bedroom hall.<br />
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There are only 2 bedrooms, 1 bath and a not-all-that-big owner's suite on the 2nd floor.<br />
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This was originally the ONLY full bath in the entire house.<br />
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The door in the first image below connects the upstairs hall to what passes for an owner's suite - a corner bedroom with drop dead views and an adjacent study whose primary architectural feature is an oddly located stair to the 3rd floor.<br />
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In 1953, the late Frederick and Isabel Church's bedroom was occupied by their elderly daughter-in-law, a sweetly dotty old lady named Mrs. Louis Church (nee Sally Goode). Out of nowhere that fall, Mrs. Church's companion read a letter to her from a 3rd year Princeton graduate student named David Huntington, requesting permission to visit Olana. It had been suggested to Huntington, who'd returned to Princeton after fighting in the war and kicking around the country for a couple of years, that the obscure and (probably) irrelevant Hudson River School painter Frederick Edwin Church might be a good subject for a thesis. Permission to visit duly arrived from a New York lawyer, and in December of that year Huntington stepped across the threshold of Olana. He was, according to a 2009 interview, "absolutely bewildered by what I saw, not at all expecting such a relic of the 19th century...virtually untouched (and) unchanged...I had lunch with Mrs Church (who) was senile and wanted to feed me much more than I really wanted to eat...(The staff) then said that I would have to have it appear that I was just there for lunch...leave by the front door and say goodbye to Mrs. Church...(T)hen they said, 'You just come in the back door, and we'll let you up into the attic by the back stairs.'" What he found was a veritable elephants' graveyard of forgotten art, including everything that had been hauled out of Church's studio in 1889.<br />
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Eleven years later, upon learning that 96-year-old Mrs. Church had died, and that the contents of her house were about to be auctioned off, Huntington embarked on a personal mission to marshall friends, politicos, philanthropists and cultural figures to save Olana. In an era when New Yorkers couldn't even stop demolition of Penn Station, this was no easy project. "I can recall bringing Mrs. J.M. Kaplan up to Olana," he described years later. "She apparently had been interested in preservation...I met her at the station in Hudson and drove her up the hill. And as soon as her very first glimpse of the house she said, 'Oh, how bizarre.' The whole visit was painful." Despite which, after 2 years of passionate lobbying, on June 27, 1966, Governor Nelson Rockefeller posed with assorted dignitaries by the front door of Olana and signed the Lane-Newcombe Bill, which provided the funds to save it.<br />
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The preservation of Olana has enriched us all, but from the standpoint of architecture Mrs. Kaplan wasn't that far off the mark. I can't imagine much privacy in a study like the one below, containing an open stair to childrens' rooms running along one wall.<br />
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Bedrooms at the top of that stair (we're now on top of the double-height dining room) are laid out like a railroad flat. A corridor at one end connects to the servants' quarters over the kitchen. A stair at the other climbs up to the tower. <br />
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The chock-full-of-old-stuff attic that mesmerized David Huntington in 1953, is today free of dust, leaks and old stuff. From a maintenance and engineering standpoint, Olana is in spectacular physical condition. <br />
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Naturally, I had to look at the basement. The laundry is now a conference room.<br />
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Both Church's reputation and his house have today been rehabilitated. 150,000 people visited the property last year, 25,000 of whom also climbed through the house. Museums fight for the right to pay multiple millions for Church's paintings, and people like me continue to look at them and glimpse the infinite. Olana is a major Hudson Valley tourist attraction. The link is www.olana.org. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit9IjIRc_8JqY-HlJ2aegV-bmDVNsAAQT_YlxipnLVfclNMbeeeqKYNpvDSy0-Up2V1v1JmZjC3vhfDmD7oleLahhLP6TwCMovOldSB459n0F4Cy5FqnkzSqMBVnIdZM_G7j_b-9CJpeBn/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-02-19+at+9.31.33+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit9IjIRc_8JqY-HlJ2aegV-bmDVNsAAQT_YlxipnLVfclNMbeeeqKYNpvDSy0-Up2V1v1JmZjC3vhfDmD7oleLahhLP6TwCMovOldSB459n0F4Cy5FqnkzSqMBVnIdZM_G7j_b-9CJpeBn/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-02-19+at+9.31.33+PM.png" /></a></div><br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-76184977736539332232015-02-18T21:17:00.000-08:002015-02-18T21:17:02.029-08:00A Park Avenue Story<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqeikBqXNdA-KLIvNDR38b6Qf711dck5DytDlVf3R7Z-Y3cZdAVeYPLI7pRlm8yQSNlvYYEBdrBxYE4MWai4ACiuZLio_tHQ3CKP2LxBkkqUmK2q1tjB1V92mF_lq-WllTw_I9G33h5S6b/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-02-09+at+9.59.38+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqeikBqXNdA-KLIvNDR38b6Qf711dck5DytDlVf3R7Z-Y3cZdAVeYPLI7pRlm8yQSNlvYYEBdrBxYE4MWai4ACiuZLio_tHQ3CKP2LxBkkqUmK2q1tjB1V92mF_lq-WllTw_I9G33h5S6b/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-02-09+at+9.59.38+PM.png" /></a></div>Before explaining this rare shot of Park Avenue in the 1890s, taken when the street SOUTH of Grand Central was the fancy part, I want to alert my (many?) readers that I am speaking this coming Monday, February 23rd, at the University Club in New York. If you're around, don't be shy; here's the link: http://www.americanscottishfoundation.com/Initiatives/landmarks50.html. I promise, I'll be amusing.<br />
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Now then, back to the topic at hand. Once I had a real estate customer who called me a "Park Avenue kind of a guy." This flattered the pants off me, not literally but figuratively for sure. Park Avenue, notwithstanding elite implications, rests on a sooty and cinder-y foundation, to wit: the railroad tracks. There were trains on Manhattan way before the Vanderbilts. The New York and Haerlem Railroad was incorporated in 1831. By 1834 it had managed to lay surface tracks all the way up 4th Avenue to Yorkville. Through Murray Hill, however, the tracks were sunk in an open cut that stretched from 32nd to 41st Streets. Decked and landscaped in the early 1850s, this section of formerly humble 4th Avenue was renamed Park Avenue and soon became a stylish residential street. The next time you take a cab through the Park Avenue tunnel, you can reflect on the fact that in 1834 it was a tunnel for trains. <br />
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Dirty smokey locomotives were banished in stages from the lower reaches of built-up Manhattan, until they made a final stand at 42nd Street. In 1871 the Vanderbilts hired John Snook of the wonderfully named architectural firm of Snook & Trench to design the terminal building below. In a stroke of marketing genius, Commodore Vanderbilt named it Grand Central, although in 1871 it was neither.<br />
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Burgeoning business on the New York Central rapidly overwhelmed Snook's terminal, and in 1899 it was so radically enlarged by architect Bradford Gilbert that it looked like an entirely new building.<br />
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Whereas chic residences lined Park Avenue south of Grand Central, a hideous open railyard extended north of it all the way to 50th Street. Unsurprisingly, the railyard exerted a dampening effect on local real estate development which, until then, was defined in the public mind by an assortment of factories, warehouse facilities and modest multiple dwellings.<br />
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The paint was hardly dry on Gilbert's Grand Central before it was torn down and replaced in 1913 by the present structure, designed by the talented and often unacknowledged firm of Reed & Stem in collaboration with Warren & Wetmore. Both the new terminal building and the railyard behind it were components of larger plan called Terminal City, inspired by the City Beautiful Movement. <br />
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The railyard was soon decked and the air space above it filled with architecturally complimentary buildings, especially luxury apartment houses.<br />
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In 1928 Warren & Wetmore's New York Central Building opened on the line of 46th Street. It immediately became a Park Avenue icon, at least until construction of the Pan Am (now MetLife) Building in 1963. Perhaps God will forgive architects Emery Roth & Sons, Pietro Belluschi, and Walter Gropius for Pan Am, but I'd say it's touch and go.<br />
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The Montana, built in 1912, was an early contender in the Park Avenue luxe apartment steeplechase. The Seagram's Building occupies the site today.<br />
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McKim Mead & White's 277 Park, built in 1925, covered the entire Park-Lex block and featured a glam central courtyard. The mindset that conceived the Pam Am Building managed the complete destruction of residential Park Avenue all the way to 57th Street, replacing it with today's glass towers. A single holdout remains: 417 Park on the southeast corner of 55th. <br />
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The view below looks up Park from the New York Central Building. The Prisoner of Zenda spire is the distance belongs to the Ritz Tower, opened in 1925. Everything else in this view is gone.<br />
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Planning started on Schultze & Weaver's Waldorf Astoria in early money-is-no-object 1929. It opened to a world of breadlines in 1931. <br />
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Below, we're looking south on Park from 80th. Except for a barely visible sliver of vanished mansion on the extreme right, this view hasn't changed much in 90 years.<br />
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The two images below look south on Park from 85th, in about 1900 and again in the mid-1920s. They illustrate just how great and how fast the changeover was.<br />
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Besides builders of luxury apartment houses, a scattering of society types was also scouting out lots on previously unheralded 4th Avenue. Among the earliest - by virtue of Social Second Sight, inside information, or both - was Percy Rivington Pyne (1857-1929), grandson of the founder and later a director of the First National City Bank of New York (today's Citibank). In 1909 Pyne hired McKim Mead & White to design this highly fashionable and beautifully detailed Federal Revival house on the northwest corner of Park and 68th Street. He moved in with wife and 5 children in 1911. Nor was Pyne alone in what seemed to some at the time a very odd fascination with old 4th Avenue. By 1912, however, even "The New York Times" was marveling that on Park Avenue, the "usual order of things is to be reversed, and...the costly dwelling will crowd out the store."<br />
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In 1917, six years after the Pynes took occupancy at 680, Morgan partner Henry Pomeroy Davison (1867-1922) moved into a slightly grander manse at 690 Park, designed by Walker & Gillette and located at the north end of the blockfront. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMj7TB0kIO6D8tWx3aHNbmd1LTG-rGtTssl1gFHlyesVdeiWFVZGy_qVnbKUoHHd0laxFTjQXyhUIvcc7-5OFEMEOXsA-535D5SXUz5mNQGGudYBoB-iSh3AgX2bPjwT_e7NDMXEEcw52A/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-02-08+at+1.57.52+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMj7TB0kIO6D8tWx3aHNbmd1LTG-rGtTssl1gFHlyesVdeiWFVZGy_qVnbKUoHHd0laxFTjQXyhUIvcc7-5OFEMEOXsA-535D5SXUz5mNQGGudYBoB-iSh3AgX2bPjwT_e7NDMXEEcw52A/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-02-08+at+1.57.52+PM.png" /></a></div><br />
Two years after that, furniture and decorating czar William Sloane (1873-1922) moved into 686 Park, designed by his Yale classmate William Delano, principal in the distinguished firm of Delano & Aldrich. This beautifully restrained Federal Revival house originally had side windows overlooking the Pynes' garden.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj28yybAexFQRv2VIDm9I_ivmtzSJl3E6klZXuiuWFiiHcPxkVkOZlg3UeFOd0viO6oqwV9yu2ZoS5tMoviLlcde2a-LQ-pjar5VigCk0hnet2Rmk76en38-fVvIHsu0SBluwVlVUFulrhyphenhyphen/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-02-10+at+4.24.32+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj28yybAexFQRv2VIDm9I_ivmtzSJl3E6klZXuiuWFiiHcPxkVkOZlg3UeFOd0viO6oqwV9yu2ZoS5tMoviLlcde2a-LQ-pjar5VigCk0hnet2Rmk76en38-fVvIHsu0SBluwVlVUFulrhyphenhyphen/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-02-10+at+4.24.32+PM.png" /></a></div><br />
Too bad about those garden view windows, however, because in 1926 Mr. Pyne again hired the office of McKim Mead & White to build 684 Park as a gift for his daughter and her husband Oliver Filley (1883-1961). The new house blocked the Sloanes' south-facing windows, which couldn't have been a happy event, even if by that time Mr Sloane was dead.<br />
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And so they survive today, the famous Pyne Davison Houses, not without assorted kicks and bruises, but survivors still. <br />
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The first big change at 680 Park was the elimination in 1926 of the private garden. Some would argue that 684 Park, which replaced that garden, is the most beautiful house of the four. Well, maybe yes, maybe no.<br />
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Princeton educated, socially connected Percy Pyne died 2 months before the Stock Market Crash, with the inconvenient result that his estate was assessed for tax purposes on the basis of its pre-Crash value. The family took a heavy hit, but was hardly impoverished. Pyne's widow kept the house until 1947, when she sold it to the Chinese government for their new U.N. headquarters. Perhaps the darkening revolution in China influenced a decision to resell the house almost immediately to the Soviet Union, which used it for the same purpose.<br />
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Whatever excitement took place inside the Soviet mission was mostly kept under wraps, with a few exceptions. In 1954, Stalin's villainous show trial prosecutor, Andrey Vyshinskiy, mysteriously dropped dead at the breakfast table while a guest at the mission. Before you could say KGB, the body was bundled onto an airplane that quickly vanished in the direction of Moscow. Most people assumed he was assassinated. In 1960, visiting Soviet premier Nikita Krushchev invited visiting premier Fidel Castro to the mission for cigars, dinner and nose thumbing at the neighborhood. The irrepressible Krushchev held forth one afternoon from the balcony over the front door, haranguing the crowd with predictions that the West would soon be toast, and banging his show on the railing for emphasis. <br />
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A less amusing villain was real estate developer Sigmund Sommer who, in 1965, bought 680 Park from the Russians, along with the Filley house next door and a third manse at 49 East 68th St. He then began demolition in advance of construction of yet another dreadful white brick apartment house. Paneling and fireplaces were piling up in the dumpsters when representatives of the Marquesa de Cuevas, nee Margaret Rockefeller Strong, plopped a $2 million check on Sommer's desk and told him to stop. He did, thus assuring the Marquesa a place at the table with St. Peter, and saving Sigmund Sommer from an eternity in Purgatory.<br />
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The Marquesa transferred 680 to her cousin, David Rockefeller, who donated it to the Center for Inter-American Relations, now called the Americas Society. The other two houses were sold, the Filley house to the Spanish government for a cultural institute, and East 68th Street to the American Foundation on Automation and Employment. Both buyers remain in possession today. A noble effort was made to retrieve disassembled architectural fabric from 680 Park. Several important public rooms were subsequently restored, if not quite to original Pyne condition, then to something pretty close. <br />
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684 Park, as noted above, was built by Percy Pyne for his daughter Mary and her husband Oliver Dwight Filley (1883-1961). Filley sounds a dashing chap. He was seeking his fortune in the Rhodesian mining industry when the First World War broke out. The 31-year old Filley dashed to London (America hadn't yet entered the war) and joined the Royal Flying Corp. On July 6, 1915, while flying a critical reconnaissance mission, his plane was attacked by a quartet of Red Barons, all of whom he drove off by means of fancy flying and dead-eyed shooting, after which he safely landed the badly damaged plane, his co-observer dead in the cockpit with him. For his conspicuous gallantry he was first awarded the Military Cross, and two years later the hand in marriage of 22-year old heiress Mary Pyne. Since 1965 the Filley house has been the home of the Spanish Cultural Institute, renamed the Queen Sophia Spanish Cultural Institute in 2003 in the wake of royal patronage.<br />
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Filley was a clubman, a foxhunter and a broker, a sort of John Held Jr. apotheosis. He spent his weeks in New York and his weekends at Upton Pyne cottage, a glamorously (in 1930) mansionized former coachman's house on his father-in-law's estate at Bernardsville, New Jersey.<br />
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William and Francis Crocker Sloane's 686 Park was more beautiful before the Filley house was built. Mr. Sloane was president of his family's firm, W. & J. Sloane, at least until America entered the war. From 1917 until he died in 1922, he labored night and day as Chairman of the War Work Council, his specific focus being the Red Cross. Sloane abandoned his own affairs and literally worked himself to death. A thousand people attended his funeral at Madison Avenue Presbyterian. He was only 49. <br />
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The Pyne Davison Houses, elegant as they are, have about them today an air of slight dilapidation. OK, maintenance costs are a bitch, especially for old houses. That's no excuse, however, for insensitive maintenance policies. Better to leave the ratty old windows alone than replace them with clumsy new ones. Am I the only one to notice that the original 6 over 6 windows on the 3rd floor of 686 Park have been replaced by totally inappropriate 9 over 9's? The new windows are wrong, wrong, wrong, and as soon as somebody at Landmarks wakes up, they'll be gone, gone, gone. Motivated by good intentions or not, they represent precisely the sort of minor - and often slow to accumulate - mutilations that eventually ruin fine old buildings. <br />
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Since 1958, the Sloane house has been home to the Italian Cultural Institute, an appropriate neighbor for the Spanish Institute next door. <br />
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The Sloanes had a beautiful country place near Mt. Kisco, designed by Delano & Aldrich in 1907 and called Merestead. It's the property of Westchester County today; "Big Old House" visited it at the beginning of June, 2013.<br />
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Henry Davison's 690 Park was designed by the society firm of Walker & Gillette. Stewart Walker's wife was the daughter of Tuxedo grandee Grenville Kane, a connection that led to 5 major house commissions in Tuxedo Park. These were in addition to 16 big places the firm did on Long Island, among them Planting Fields, visited by BOH last October. The firm was equally versatile in the commercial market, notable local examples being the Fuller Building at 57th and Madison, plus a dozen Neo-Classical Manhattan banks.<br />
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Henry Davison was from small town in Pennsylvania, never went to college, and began working at a local bank when he was still in his teens. A relative got him a bookkeeping job in far off Bridgeport CT. There he met and evidently impressed the famed impresario, P.T. Barnum, who introduced him to a daughter of prominent Bridgeport named Kate Trubee, whom he married and moved with to New York. He rose inexorably in the Manhattan banking world, eventually becoming a partner at J.P. Morgan. Like his neighbor Sloane, Davison threw himself into war work, in his case as Chairman of the Red Cross. This was essentially a fund raising post, and Davison dazzled. He also burned out young, dying of a brain tumor in 1922 at the age of 54. After selling 690 Park to a General Electric Corp. vice president, Mrs. Davison moved to a 14-room coop at 856 Fifth. The Italian consulate has owned the building since the 1950s.<br />
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Walker & Gillette also designed Davison's Lattington, Long Island country place, called Peacock Point (now demolished). I don't have any interiors of 690 Park, but I have a feeling they looked a lot like Peacock Point's.<br />
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And so they stand today, with more than a few bruises perhaps, but at least they're all still with us. <br />
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John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6170852285107502075.post-10307729733367562172015-02-11T21:07:00.001-08:002015-02-11T21:07:45.559-08:00East Seventies Sophistication<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzXD472ftaTjxEsYQXJOSgLYf4D8LdFhSxWRe8JKjIMiS6D5np80nSm6U2MvD6kOOlyTvbPSl-TIAZLPyu_9NwwJqWwbO8G1iLuJVZkBnPeluAdCk7-jhgETjKcQQpoj1qU4aKuVkYAuyd/s1600/IMG_6092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzXD472ftaTjxEsYQXJOSgLYf4D8LdFhSxWRe8JKjIMiS6D5np80nSm6U2MvD6kOOlyTvbPSl-TIAZLPyu_9NwwJqWwbO8G1iLuJVZkBnPeluAdCk7-jhgETjKcQQpoj1qU4aKuVkYAuyd/s640/IMG_6092.JPG" /></a></div>I sound like "Architectural Digest" which, with all due respect, I am not. The view above shows 78th Street east of Park Avenue, a block transformed in the decade following the Civil War from flat earth to urban streetscape. The middle class brownstone block of the late 1860s was transformed again in the early 20th century, when people whose parents had ruled New York from palaces on Fifth Avenue chose, instead, to live on the Upper East Side's low profile side streets. Houses already there were alternately demolished, re-facaded, or combined with others on adjoining lots to make new houses, the latter in some cases almost as grand as those yielding to apartment house construction on Fifth. <br />
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Here's an example of scenario No. #1, a sophisticated replacement for a vanished 4-story, high stoop, brownstone spec house, part of a modest identical row, put up in the late 1860s and occupied by long forgotten bookkeepers, municipal employees, engineers, and the like. It's late for what it is - a smart Manhattan city house for old-line society people. Plans were filed in February 1930 and the family was in by late 1931. It is an essay on upper class American taste in the 1920s that got built in spite of the Crash.<br />
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The house was designed by Delano & Aldrich, whose socially connected partners, William Adams Delano (1874-1960) and Chester Aldrich (1871-1940), met in the office of Carrere & Hastings.<br />
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They formed their own firm in 1903, and soon became society's go-to firm for elite private clubs, among them the Knickerbocker and the Colony...<br />
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...and uber-tasteful Georgian Revival townhouses for people like Harold Pratt, Harrison Williams and Francis Palmer...<br />
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...and a great number of distinguished country places in elite towns like Old Westbury and Laurel Hollow.<br />
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The client on East 78th was Henry Rogers Winthrop (1878-1958), a prominent broker, investment banker and governor of the New York Stock Exchange. He is seen here in the only image I could find of him, taken from a 1935 "New York Times" article describing his chairmanship of the "standing committee on customers' men," whatever that means.<br />
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Delano & Aldrich gave Mr. Winthrop an 8-story Georgian Revival mansion on the site of a 17-foot, 3-story and basement brownstone, without making it look like a sliver building. Their design solutions were quite brilliant. The building's height is minimized by setting back the 7th floor, making it invisible from the street, and treating windows on the 8th as attic dormers. The visual impact of the unusual demi-lune entrance alcove not only anchors the composition but diverts the eye from the narrowness of the site. The relatively unadorned facade between dormers above and alcove below gives a sense of correct proportion, in spite of the fact that the place is wildly tall and narrow. <br />
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The interior was designed with equal imagination and skill. The client wanted a big house, and by gum that's what he got. Not only is the place 8 stories tall, it covers virtually the entire lot. This adds significantly to interior floor space, but also provides that rare opportunity in row houses, large rooms with double exposures. Public, family and service areas were segregated efficiently by designers who understood sophisticated living. If I have one criticism of the plan, it stems from my own confusion as to which of the two entrances in the streetside alcove is actually the front door. (I figured it out). The plan below shows the first 3 levels. We'll enter on the so-called Parlour Level, which contains the entrance hall and formal dining room. The level below that houses kitchen, office and service entrance. Laundry, mechanical rooms and a silver safe occupy the Basement Level, at the rear of which is a small light court.<br />
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Winthrop was a direct descendant of colonial Massachusetts' "liberty loving" Puritan (if such is not an oxymoron) Gov. John Winthrop (1587-1649). In early August, 1905, already Treasurer of the Equitable Life Assurance Company at the age of 27, Winthrop married Alice Woodward Babcock at her parents' rented manse in the swell Long Island village of Roslyn. "The wedding was one of the most fashionable of the season," observed the "Times," accurately, I'd say. A private train took 400 guests to and from Manhattan, Consuelo Marlborough (Alice had been one of her bridesmaids) attended, Delmonico's catered and Franko's (the Peter Duchin of the day) provided music. Winthrop's boss, embattled Equitable heir, James Hazen Hyde, did a last minute bunk. Since press, public and even the state legislature were all after him with pitchforks and flaming torches, this was understandable. He'd thrown a ball at the Waldorf at the beginning of that year, one of surpassing luxury paid for, according to his enemies at Equitable, by the premiums of widows and orphans. Not true, of course, but the most effective canards often aren't.<br />
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The beautiful stair, while sumptuous in its way, has the pared down "good taste" air of the late 'Twenties. We're not going upstairs yet, but heading for the dining room, taking a peek en route at what makes the whole undertaking possible: the elevator.<br />
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Years ago, I remember reading in "The Decoration of Houses" (Wharton & Codman) that really good windows don't require curtains. That's certainly the case here. A delicious terrace, now snow covered, its ornamental urns swaddled for the winter, lies beyond french doors at the room's south end.<br />
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The serving pantry, redone in the 1980s from the looks of it, is connected by stair to the kitchen on the floor below. <br />
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The kitchen of 1930 would have been white and bright, full of hard ceramic and metal surfaces, glass doored metal cabinetry, modern appliances and linoleum floors - a paean to the era's technology. <br />
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Let's leave the kitchen, go one flight down to the Basement Level, peek at the silver safe, then return to the family area and the main stair.<br />
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With the exception of a big drawing room in the back, about which more below, floors 2,3 and 4 are reserved for private family use. <br />
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For a moment, I mistook the room in the image below, located at the front of the 2nd Floor, for a library, at least until I noticed there were no bookshelves. I imagine everyone who's lived in this house has used it as a combination office and small drawing or reception room, ideal for being by yourself or visiting with just a few other people. I'd love to know the story of the paneling. It's been skillfully pieced together with a variety of woods and parts of it are clearly old, but heaven only knows where it came from or what it originally looked like. I'd guess France and painted white, but that's just a guess.<br />
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Henry Winthrop was not simply a success in business and society, but a First World War army major, ultimately a colonel in the reserves, recipient of a DSO from the Brits and a Commander of the British Empire. From 1910 to 1950, he was president (indeed, the first president) of the Piping Rock Club, a name to drop if you live on Long Island. Piping Rock was about 12 miles from the Winthrops' Syosset country place, called East Woods.<br />
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According to "The New York Times" on August 29, 1932, Henry Winthrop considered re-election of Herbert Hoover, "essential to quick business recovery and increased employment." He labored hard to that end as chairman of a joint national and state Republican fund raising committee. Interesting to note, by 1933 he was working just as hard to elect Fiorello La Guardia, a Republican to be sure, but a most un-Hoover-like specimen and an ardent supporter of the New Deal.<br />
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A large drawing room, designed for both entertaining and book storage, is located at the rear. I've seen this drawingroom/library combo in a number of old houses, where for whatever reason, neither client nor architect deemed separate dedicated spaces necessary. This room, with its fine proportions and elegant floor to ceiling windows, is a place for larger groups, for cocktails before going down to dinner, not for intimate talk or private time. <br />
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A small vintage bar is in the corner. Very "Cole Porter."<br />
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The 3rd and 4th Floors housed family bedrooms. Well, an owners' suite occupies the entire 3rd, while a single guest room, with en suite bath, plus what looks to have been a pair of small visiting servants (?) rooms, now combined, are on 4. Mr. & Mrs. Winthrop's daughter Alice married a man named Robert Payne two years before the house was finished. This was not a place for small children nor, apparently, for very many overnight guests.<br />
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Depending on whether or not the Winthrops slept together, there was either a bedroom with bath, fore and aft, on Floor 3, or a shared bedroom in the back and dressing room/boudoir in the front. If the kitchen three levels down shows the decorating hand of the 1980s, today's owners' suite speaks to the aesthetic soul of the 1990s. A glass walled shower currently extends into the former dressing room, while a jet age bathroom adjoins the bedroom in back.<br />
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The last family floor is Four, a fact made abundantly clear by a frosted demi-lune skylight over the main stair, marking its termination a full two floors below the roof. There are now two bedrooms and two baths on this floor, but when the house was built, the room in front was divided lengthwise in half, making a pair of skinny bedrooms. I doubt these were intended for guests, which is why I surmise they were intended for visiting servants. (That's just a surmise).<br />
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With the exception of the owners' floor below, most of the bathrooms appear to have been altered at the same time as the kitchen.<br />
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How do we get to the servants' floors above when the main stair stops here? By taking a sharp right in the view below, and climbing the appropriately industrial looking flight to 5. The elevator made it unnecessary for servants to use the family stair, not that they'd have taken a job in the first place if it required hiking up six flights to go bed. <br />
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I have not seen the original Delano & Aldrich plans, but am pretty sure Floors 5 and 6 originally contained 4 servants' bedrooms, plus a servants' lounge with adjacent kitchenette. The 5th floor lounge is now a mirrored exercise room, the kitchenette a walk-in closet. Similar to the floor below, two maids' rooms in front have now been combined into one family sized bedroom. The idea of moving, as soon as one's children are grown and out of the house, into an 8-story manse with accommodations for 4 in live-in help is appealing, I'll admit, but for most of us, I guess it doesn't make a lot of sense.<br />
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A pair of combined maids' rooms at the front of Floor 6 are presently used as a sort of Zen retreat. The adjacent bath is the least altered in the house.<br />
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There's a very attractive roof terrace at rear end of the 6th floor, but on the day of my visit the snow was too deep to take a look. Oddly, the roof above was much more navigable. My extremely understanding hosts urged me to take a look, which I did.<br />
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I think we've now seen Henry and Alice Winthrop's house.<br />
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Mrs. Winthrop died in 1942 and her husband, now a 64-year-old widower, retired from business, dissolved his brokerage firm, sold the contents of the house at Parke-Bernet and moved to Sarasota FL. He died there in November, 1958 at the age of 82.<br />
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In 1947, the house was sold to a broker with the oddly difficult to pronounce name of Jorge R. Andre. Interesting note: Mrs. Andre, nee Carolyn Storrs, was the daughter of Frank Vance Storrs, owner and founder of "Playbill."<br />
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By 1960 Carolyn Storrs Andre was divorced (for the second time), and in September of that year married a Davis Polk partner named Charles Spofford (1902-1991). Mr. Spofford was another Henry Winthrop, but with less emphasis on high society and more on outright accomplishment. Yale '24; Phi Beta Kappa; Harvard Law '28; W.W. II Brigadier General; 1950-2 chairman of the NATO Council of Deputies; president of the Metropolitan Opera; and the friend of John D Rockefeller 3rd who, during a personal chat in 1955 (according to Spofford's 'Times' obit), "gave (Rockefeller) the germ of an idea for what became the Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts - with much Rockefeller financial support and Mr. Rockefeller as its chairman." The Metropolitan Opera's "inadequate" home on 39th St., the New York Philharmonic's sharing of Carnegie Hall, and Robert Moses determination to demolish a slum in the West 60s presented the sort of opportunities power brokers manage best. <br />
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Carolyn Spofford died in 1970, aged only 62. While her husband lived for another 21 years, he sold the house shortly after her death to a celebrated art dealer and neighbor named Harold Reed (1938-2013). During the 1980s, 120 East 78th St. became the Harold Reed Gallery, known, per Reed's "New York Times" obit, "for seminal shows of works by Botero, Alice Neel and many others." Reed sounds an engaging type, equally involved in art, theatre, historic preservation and local community affairs.<br />
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Another interesting note: In 1964 Mr. Reed (nee Friedman) married Marjorie Anne Kahn, a direct descendant of Confederate Secretary of State, Judah P. Benjamin, the first Jewish person in America to be elected to the U.S. Senate (from Louisiana in 1852). Benjamin was also luckier than Jefferson Davis, with whom he escaped from Richmond in 1865. He evaded potential captors, made his way to England, and retired there in 1883 as a rich barrister. He died in Paris in 1884. <br />
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A final Winthrop detour: Present-day suburban Syosset gives little hint of what it was like in 1924, when the Prince of Wales, prior to giving up his kingdom for his girlfriend, stayed there during a highly publicized visit to the U.S. Royal headquarters was a Syosset estate called Woodside, designed by Delano & Aldrich and lent to the prince by its absent owners, James and Adele Burden. Woodside was an amazingly gorgeous place. It's now a country club and not quite so gorgeous. Its grounds are a golf course, its gardens intruded upon by new construction, even though it is still standing. If you're interested - and I don't doubt that many of my readers most enthusiastically are - the Syosset Scrapbook, online at http://syossetscrapbook.freeservers.com/, has lots of evocative old photos from the estate days.<br />
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In the absence of Mr. & Mrs. Burden, the prince's official hosts were Henry and Alice Winthrop, who moved temporarily into Woodside from their own Syosset place, called East Woods, and seen in the vintage aerial below. East Woods burned to the ground in 1964, the same year Harold Reed married Marjorie Kahn. The estate was subsequently chopped into suburban house lots, but not quite all of it has vanished. An elaborate enclosed tennis court is now a private house. A more evocative survivor is a fragment of the original terrace that once adjoined the south wall of the mansion. Its retaining wall and circular fountain still exist, albeit largely hidden by trees. They're visible in the modern aerial, like Waldo.<br />
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Delano & Aldrich's house for Henry Winthrop is currently for sale. If your pockets are deep and your interest is piqued, you can email Brown Harris Stevens' John Burger at jburger@bhsusa.com. <br />
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Photo of Harold Reed c.patrickmcmullen.com.John Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05062464473900774511noreply@blogger.com16